Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks for your help, Iv looked for one for hours a day, no luck an the Cub Cadet boys won't send me one like its a top secret thing lol .. you could be right but I'm unable to find anything not connected or corroded to many wires and color coding is not true .. frustratingly lost at this point I may have to take it to Cub Cadet .. grumbling!! Im sure that'll cost me but gota have it for winter hauling wood and cleaning snow from the driveway

  • Like 1
Posted

To find out which wire goes to the battery, use a continuity test. With the battery disconnected, and the key in the off position. Using a multi meter, set to ohms, run a jumper from the positive battery terminal, of the disconnected battery. Hook the jumper wire to one end of the meter, then probe all the terminals on the switch with the other. When you get a reading, there shouldn't be much difference between this reading, and just touching the meter terminals together. There'll probably be some difference, but not much. Then turn the key on, and find the next wire, that'll be the one that's always hot when running. Then the start wire is last. That should just about cover most of the wires on the switch, so you can track down the problem. 

   But from what I've read so far, it seems like a ground wire problem. But if you can't get continuity at the switch then it's obviously a problem on the positive circuit.

  • Like 2
Posted

@kenfain we tried that even tried a hot from battery still no power to the switch we can get lights to come on that way but nothing else .. chasing the wires is a task because there's so many and no slack in them what are friends for .. well they slip out with beer an tools and....... nothing lol we can't find the problem .. patients is at it's end haha I better drop it off at cub cadet before I push it over the hill .. everyone thinks its a secret relay hiding somewhere but no luck there either .. we're all baffled at this point  

  • Like 1
Posted

I spit some Beach nut in it's eye and shot it with my ole 45 lol haven't done it yet but Im taken it out to cub cadet when I have time but I will let everyone know what it was that shut'er done

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, uponahill said:

haven't done it yet but Im taken it out to cub cadet when I have time but I will let everyone know what it was that shut'er done

Ooh, I've never heard of that Restaurant before, Cub Cadet? Candlelight dinner?😍😜

😋B):lol::) 

 

Posted

just a thought, check the main inline fuse from battery. turn key to on position and give the wires a good rattle. I had a similar intermittent problem and could hear sparking across the fuse... changed the fuse and a clean up then no more problems.

my symptoms were clocks coming on and numbers flickering then nothing... no click no lights etc. and battery running flat because not charging. 

Keyif 

Posted

@keyif .. good idea and we already tried that, nothing .. its still sitting waiting for me to take it in to get worked on (guy side swiped me totaled my truck and trailer, trucks back I'm still cutting and welding on trailer to replace fender and axle) but between normal work an my other 2 experimental projects (deff not the kindof talk of this thread or board) and cutting wood to keep from freezing this winter I'm to busy to work on it now .. my friends still come over with a light bulb above their head smiling -> HEY I GOT AN IDEA!!! lol

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It probably is one of the rely's .  It was my problem.  I have been running mine wired on the one good rely.  I just have to make sure the headlights are off when I cut it off or the way I have it wired cutting off the switch doesn't cut off the headlights also. They stay on and I have to cut them off with the light switch.  For safety I put in a toggle switch that kills everything.  Before that I had someone turn on the headlights while I had it parked just about killing my battery. I was lucky it turned over just enough to get me started again. I haven't replaced the rely's yet because I don't know what caused them to go bad suddenly. I think I may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Looks Like I had a rat or squirrel or rat chew some of the wiring. Works and runs well on one rely, but know I'm pushing my luck. My charging system seems to be erratic since though. Sometimes my hour meter works and sometimes not. When it is working my battery is charging when it doesn't battery isn't charging. I hook a battery tender on it when parked and I haven't had problems with the battery cranking as long as the headlights aren't used for to long. At my age I don't do much night driving. 

 

Best of luck!!  Will be watching for the results in your search of a fix!!

 

John Taylor

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By CaptainMorgan
      I have a Bobcat 2200 Diesel (built by Club Car) with a 2-weight Team Primary Clutch I want to rebuild, possibly replace. The clutch has an annoying rattling sound at idle and appears the rollers and weights are worn and loose. When I opened it up, everything looks clean and in great shape. It's just that all the moving rollers and weights seem to have way too much play in them, possibly causing the noise. I've searched for clearance and torque specifications with no luck at all. The UTV has less than 500 hours on it.  Any ideas?
    • By Ed Michael
      My older LM 650 is blowing fuel into the air cleaner.  Any idea on what would cause this?  It is the Suzuki motor.  Not sure what model year it is.
      Thanks
      Subaru SxS.mp4
    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
×
×
  • Create New...