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By darth vadner
I have a 2019 hi sun 750 I parked it in my garage last fall and about a month later I went to ride it and I had no power but the battery shows good. I’ve taken the ignition switch out and cleaned it. I cleaned the battery terminals and replace the main relay all my fuses are good. I still show strong battery but get no power, can anyone help or have any ideas? I have yet to find any wires chewed up like from a mouse or anything all the wiring looks good.
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By Jim D
MSU 500 does nothing when you turn the key. No power to display, fuel pump or anything. Come back a while later and everything works perfect. Starts right up. Battery is fully charged. Could this be the ignition going bad. When it doesn't power up I've found nothinf that will correct it other then waiting and trying later.
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By jcbigg
When I try to start my AXIS 500 (from Lowes) there is a buzzing sound coming from the battery compartment and it will not turn over/start. The battery is showing 12.47 volts so that does not appear to be the issue, are there any suggestions on where to look next?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By BuggyBoy
So these Giant 48v/110ah batteries have just become available: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/giant-100ah-48v-lithium-golf-cart-deep-cycle-battery
They look like they could drop in either side of the Controller that sits in the middle of the tray as they are 330mm(W) 355(L) 295mm(H). They can be paralleled, and I think two should be enough. Technically once paralleled the system should output 400ah continuous and 800ah Max (5 secs), more than enough for the E1 - probably 1/3rd more than is needed.
However, the sales person stated that if the regen braking exceeded 400amps, it would put the batteries in standby mode for protection and they would have to be 're-started' with a jumper pack to reset them. Does anybody know the max output of the E1 Regen system, and if it does exceed that, is it possible to disable/bypass the regen so it has a zero output?
Thanks.
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