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Similar Forum Topics
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Polaris Ranger 800 11-16 4x4 6x6 Crew Engine Motor Rebuilt
Polaris Ranger 800 11-16 4x4 6x6 Crew Engine Motor Rebuilt On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-800-11-16-4x4-6x6-Crew-Engine-Motor-Rebuilt/361534749653?By johnpeter, in UTV Off-Road Classifieds - Buy & Sell
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Strike or Sector 250 wheels and tire options
Hey all, pretty pumped there is a forum for these machines. I see the stock sizes but does anyone know what size wheel/tire they can take? Example 24x8 or 26x8 ext? I understand it would need a new wheel and tease adapter to match the front,. ThanksBy CStrike250, in Hisun UTV SxS Forum
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Strike 250 wheels and sand paddles
So bought the kids a strike 250 and we live close to some small dunes and the thing does not like sand with the stock tires. I was thinking about a set of sandstars for the rear but having a hard time finding wheel specs on the 250? Anyone know bolt pattern and offset of the factory wheel? Thank you BradBy r33pwrd, in Hisun UTV SxS Forum
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Engine Swap Thread
Hey Everyone, I’ve created a few other threads and a bit disappointed at the limited responses the forums seem to get. So rather than asking about an engine swap i’d like to share some information with others here in an effort to generate some discussion! So i’ve done much research on engine swaps for my 800cc buggy, and my ideal swap would be a suzuki swift gti engine, however they seem to be rare and very expensive if you can ever locate one. The only ones i’ve seen are going for $3500+ which is completely rediculaous becuase the purpose of an engine swap should be to get an inexpensive engine that parts are available for, the suzuki swift is neither. So in my research, i’m specifically looking for a naturally aspirated lightweight aluminum engine that produces “acceptable” power. Far as I can tell such a thing rarely exists in the US, which is probably why the G13b engines are so redicualously overpriced. What I have found, and present to you is a Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2L It’s an all aluminium, lightweight 3 cylinder NA engine that’s producing 74HP and 74ft lbs torque. Not crazy power numbers I know, BUT for an NA 170lb readily available, AND cheap engine those are not bad in its stock form. Certainly those of you looking to get a little crazier than I can drop a turbo in and up those base numbers. Far as I can tell in my research No one has done this engine swap to date, so I suppose I will have to go fist... I am not quite ready to take on a project of this magnitude but will likely make this my winter/spring project and hope to have it completed by early/late spring next year. I will of course document the install and process once it gets under way. In the meantime please feel free to use this thread to discuss other possible engine swap projects or ideas for such! I love me some buggy action and can’t wait to get this swap underway.By KTMspeedFreak, in UTV General Discussion
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Engine Swap in 800 what do I need to know?
So i’ve been looking into various options with going forced induction or a new chery etc but having a carb setup it’s kinda tricky for me... Not to mention the cost of prob 2.5k minimum. So ive been looking for car engines that would be the right cost, availability , size power etc. I found some great cheap options from Misubishi and Chevy, the 1.2L mirage and spark engines respectively but they are both efi. Question 1 how much more difficult will it be to switch over to EFI from my carb setup? Question 2 what are some common problem areas I may encounter? both engines should fit and i’m sure i’ll have to weld up some custom engine mounts. What about a diff and cv joints? anything else I may not be considering with a swap of this magnitude?By KTMspeedFreak, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
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- 126 views
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Similar Tagged Content
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By JeremyH
I recently replaced my rear driveshaft on my 08 Commando 650. Unfortunately, the parking brake rotor was welded to the old one, and the new one did not have one. The folks at Joyner recommended just moving the caliper to the rear wheel as there is a second bracket I could mount it to. However, the brake line is too short to reach that bracket, anyone done this reposition before? Are there standard size brake lines and fittings that I can buy to move it? Right now I have it bolted back up to the factory bracket but it sucks to not have a parking brake.
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By silverbullet
Hello Joyner Owners
THEY ARE HERE!!!
1100cc, 800cc and 650cc New Cam Shafts. There was a demand to bring them back so we did. They are set up with a slight change in duration, and have more timing in them to bump up that low end torque we all need and are hardcoated to reduce the wear on the cam. These really are the next step or a good start in the build of your engine. For the 800 and 1100 guys, snorkel, fuel controller, cams, pistons...boost.. For the 650 guys, snorkel, cams, pistons, custom carb setup...boost. We have N/A and Forced Induction profiles available. We are currently planning a build on our shop renegade to build an 1100 with the snorkel, new throttle body, super charger, ported and lightly polished heads, oversized pistons, we are looking for oversized valves and better valve springs. Looking to build a beast that is reliable. All of this has been in the works for months, that way we can pass it all on to you. If you have any questions or comments feel free to drop us a line or shoot us over an email.
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By canyonsmitty
I need to replace my rear reducer, and talked to Joyner-USA who indicated that I can only replace the rear reducer with an identical one. I would like to eliminate the permanently locked characteristic of the Commando and go to a locking/inlocking differential as is used on other models. I tore the original one up because I have to follow paved drive to get unit out of my garage-storage area. It was just too much for the machine as well as leaving a lot of rubber behind in the process.
Has anybody looked into this? Thanks.
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By canyonsmitty
Hi All
I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience:
1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin?
2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out?
3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame.
4 I see a lot of references to "Lenny" in reference to upgrade kits. Can someone give me a link to "Lenny" and do any of his kits fit the Commando?
5 Has anyone developed a description of the reducer teardown and rebuild or a YouTube of same.
Any info is greatly appreciated and thanks!
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