Quantcast
Jump to content

Boring or Honing? What's the difference


Travis
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well, I'm kicking myself sideways,backways and upways right now. I found out in the manual that your supposed to hone  the cylinder before re ringing the piston. So I gotta do that.

 But what's the difference between boring the cylinder and honing it? Some people say boring it makes the cylinder bigger etc.  And some say honing does that.

 But i think honing it is just to remove minor scratches, right?

 And if i hone the cylinder, will that require oversize rings and piston?

 Thanks, T.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of hone do you recommend? I've seen some that are expandable and use stones. and some that look like cotton balls on the end :)

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80560-Piston-Cylinder/dp/B000N35LJE

or you have some like this

https://www.amazon.com/Research-FLEX-HONE-Cylinder-Abrasive-Diameter/dp/B002XUL1GW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FTHTMYN6VMC0MGFZ52JE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would concur with all that's been mentioned above, but to also add, honing is also used to get rid of metal transfer residue. This happens with aluminum pistons. Usually it's a big problem for chainsaws, and such. Never heard of it being a problem on bigger engines.

    So honing in your case is probably optional. It's definitely recommended, but I wouldn't think there'd be much difference. If the motor is still out of the chassis, I'd take it apart, because I know myself too well. My OCD wouldn't let me just forget about it.

  As far as which hone to get, the one with the stones give a nice cross hatch pattern, which is what most people want. I didn't look at any of the others that you linked. But most of the rest will polish the cylinder. Polishing a cylinder is useful for 2 cycle engines, but certainly won't hurt yours. After all, that's what the rings are going to start doing immediately after starting it up. My recommendation would be to get the machine shop up the street to do that as well. Since a cylinder hone is not something you'll ever use much, why buy one? Honing used to be dirt cheap, probably still is. This will also allow you to ask these guys any questions that you might still have. Disassembling, and assembly will go much quicker,and be much easier this time around. It'll also give you a chance to check your previous work.

I'd say to just wade on in. Think of it this way; if you don't, and you can't seem to get it running right. You'll start second guessing all the stuff that you missed, or skipped. Since a motor doesn't have any extra parts, or needless rebuild procedures. Even something as simple as skipping the honing, will become suspect. I can almost guarantee that it won't be the problem, but this way it'll be eliminated for certain.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! A guy that goes to our church  used  to work in a machine shop, and he's got a hone with the stones, so he's going to come over in a few days and do it, and help me put every thing back in together and button it up (hopefully) :) 

7 hours ago, kenfain said:

Since a motor doesn't have any extra parts

What do you mean? :D ;)   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, and guess where i found  the part where is says to hone the cylinder? there was a  * by the title of " Piston Installation" and I just saw it, it's in the back of the manual with all of the footnotes, i guess you call them. Not  where you think it would've been on that page....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The comment about extra parts is just to say that the whole engine works together, as a system. If the engine doesn't have the compression it's supposed to have, or lacks a robust performance. It would be easy to say " If only I'd honed that cylinder I could be certain that it isn't some kind of blowby issue. 

   Unless you're a seasoned mechanic, it's ALL gremlins, and voodoo. Especially when you're talking about something like honing. My advice is to hone that sumbitch, and move on. I told you from the beginning, that you'll have to go back into the motor....It happens...almost always. It's how we learn, so embrace it lol.

   When you get it right...it'll be worth it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, kenfain said:

The comment about extra parts is just to say that the whole engine works together, as a system. If the engine doesn't have the compression it's supposed to have, or lacks a robust performance. It would be easy to say " If only I'd honed that cylinder I could be certain that it isn't some kind of blowby issue. 

:) I know, i just meant that as a joke :) 

 

2 minutes ago, kenfain said:

When you get it right...it'll be worth it.

Im sure it will be, a couple hundred bucks is a LOT cheaper than a new one!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By strike250
      I have the factory service manual available for the Buck 400. Just send me a message with your email and I'll get it to you. Although there is no charge for this, it would be great if  you would visit my website where you could donate any amount to help do things like this with others who need it. Again, there is no charge for this manual, and no obligation to donate. But if you did, I would thank you for sure. Have fun on the trails. www.warriorsoffroad.com
       
      Matt

    • By Bret4207
      2019 Coleman Outfitter 550, 160-ish hours. Was driving it slowly and it just slowed down and died. Won't start. Pops once as soon as I start cranking and that's it. I have great blue white spark on the spark tester, jumps 1/2". Changed injector, no joy. Changed plugs to new several times, no joy. Pulled injector power wire and tried ether through air intake after removing air filters- nothing! I do notice if I put my hand over the air intake where the filter goes, I get pressure  pushing back at me. Jumped time? Stuck valve? Is there a decompressor on this that could be malfunc?
       
      This is the one I've had that was inop for months and months while Coleman tried to find someone to fix it. Warranty is long expired now. I'll never have anything good to say about this thing.
    • By Alex
      View File 2017-18 CFMOTO ZFORCE Series Operators Manual
      2017-18 CFMOTO ZFORCE Series Operators Manual
      Includes:
      ZFORCE 500TRAIL
      ZFORCE 550EX
      ZFORCE 800EX
      ZFORCE 800TRAIL
      ZFORCE 1000
       
      Submitter Alex Submitted 09/06/2021 Category CFMOTO  
    • By Alex
      View File Treker 4200 & 4400 NT ST Utility Vehicles Parts Manual
      Treker 4200 & 4400 NT ST Utility Vehicles Parts Manual - 700-108P
      Submitter Alex Submitted 09/06/2021 Category Other UTVs  
    • eManualOnline
    • By Alex
      View File Treker 4200 NT/ST 4400 NT/ST 4210/4410 ST Operators Manual
      Treker 4200 NT/ST 4400 NT/ST 4210/4410 ST Operators Manual - 700-108M
      Submitter Alex Submitted 09/06/2021 Category Other UTVs  

×
×
  • Create New...