kawasaki A little confusion...
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By rdc
I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
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By jertex
I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear. I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable.
I have two questions:
1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift?
2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable?
Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty.
Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening.
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By OBL
program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
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By Cliffampranch
Hi All,
I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026). That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range. A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home. The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed. I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance. At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed. Any ideas?
Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully. After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT! So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature. Very annoying. Are there any adjustments to be had?
And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint. This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.). This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience. Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
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By Butch
I have a AXIS 700 EFI Fuel pump pressure stays at 40 psi and when return line is blocked the pressure goes to 60 psi. and wll only run with return line closed.
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