Quantcast
Jump to content


2009 Hisun Supermach 500, Stalling at idle and hesitating under acceleration


Tomoto

Recommended Posts

Hey folks. I recently acquired a pre-owned Hisun 500, carburated. And surprise... it has issues.

When cold, it typically starts without any issues, but once it warms up it tends to sputter and stall out. When accelerating, you can also feel it hesitating occasionally, and when you stop or put her into reverse, she will often stall.  The fuel is clean, I installed a new fuel filter, and the air filter is clean. Though the fuel pump appears to be working ok, it makes a strange knocking sound whenever power is put to it.  I've never heard anything like it, and I'm not sure if its shot or just a cheap Chinese pump thing. I have an aftermarket pump coming, and I've ordered a new ignition coil as well on the off chance that it is faulty. I am hoping replacing these two parts will solve the issue,  and if it does I will post the results here. 

If not, anyone have any other ideas?  Also, I've noticed it is very difficult to find parts for this make... any suggestions on a good source for Hisun parts? I appreciate any comments or insights. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, aussie1 said:

Is choke working properly? Also check valve settings.

Thanks for the tips Aussie1. The choke cable appears to be working fine, although I have not measured cable movement to ensure it is within specs.  The machine is ten years old, but it has only 600 kms on it. I suppose I could check valve clearances, but I haven't largely because of the low mileage, and because it goes from running fine to flaming out. When you start it back up, it runs fine at idle as well at higher RPMs. However, once you let it idle again for a few seconds, it begins to pop a bit and then stalls.  If the valves required adjustment, I imagine the problem would be more consistent.

I still suspect either a potential problem with the fuel delivery (I have a new pump on its way), or a faulty ignition coil. I guess I'll see if the problem is resolved once both parts are replaced. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would also go along with fuel or ignition issues.  A lot of "could be this" or "could be that".  Just a few things I would check:

Could be spark plug wires (insulation) breaking down (had that problem on my car once).  Start the engine and look to see if you can see St Elmo's fire around the spark plug wires.  More pronounced if engine is under load.  Best if you can do this at night with very little light.

Could be the fuel pump.  Can you check fuel pump pressure and volume?

Carburetor may need cleaning.  High speed jet may be partially clogged.

The popping could be a sign of sticking valves.  Especially if it sat for a very long time.  Do a compression check.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, Dan B said:

I would also go along with fuel or ignition issues.  A lot of "could be this" or "could be that".  Just a few things I would check:

Could be spark plug wires (insulation) breaking down (had that problem on my car once).  Start the engine and look to see if you can see St Elmo's fire around the spark plug wires.  More pronounced if engine is under load.  Best if you can do this at night with very little light.

Could be the fuel pump.  Can you check fuel pump pressure and volume?

Carburetor may need cleaning.  High speed jet may be partially clogged.

The popping could be a sign of sticking valves.  Especially if it sat for a very long time.  Do a compression check.

Thanks Dan B. Great suggestions. Exactly where I've been sniffing around...

Fuel pump was super cheap at $40, so instead of wasting time testing pressures, I replaced it. Intermittent issue persists. 

Carburetor was yanked, disassembled, and  thoroughly cleaned before reassembly and re-installation. I didn't find anything obviously unusual whilst in there... jets were all clean without obstruction. Intermittent issue persists.

Ignition coil including the lead wire , also really cheap at $60, so I'm just gonna replace it too. Then I can be certain that any gremlins go out the door with the old part. 

Spark plug, $5. Turns out the existing plug is actually not the recommended plug as its heat rating is too high. Though I doubt that would cause the issue, its being replaced with a new one at the correct heat rating. 

I was hesitant to start getting into the engine, but if the ignition coil and new plug do not resolve the issue, then valve inspection and  confirmation of their clearances is were  where I was heading. 

Overall, the issue presents like an intermittent fuel or spark problem. Quickly tapping the accelerator to rev the engine repeatedly sometimes results in a major bog, almost to the point of stalling out if you do not let off. But only sometimes... If the valves were out, or there was a compression issue, it seems to me the problem would be far more consistent. I am leaning towards a weak spark compliments of either a faulty plug or ignition coil, so I will post results here when the new parts are installed... hopefully by the end of the week.

Thanks for your actionable input; much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Just wandering if you found the cause of your problem? I have a 2017 Husun Vector 500 with similar issues. Thought maybe I had bad  fuel, but have ran a new tank of fuel and still have the problem, runs Ok when cold but after it warms up, it sputters and bogs down when accelerating. Also has a bit of backfire going on when you let off the gas pedal as well.  

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/29/2019 at 11:28 AM, Gregory said:

Just wandering if you found the cause of your problem? I have a 2017 Husun Vector 500 with similar issues. Thought maybe I had bad  fuel, but have ran a new tank of fuel and still have the problem, runs Ok when cold but after it warms up, it sputters and bogs down when accelerating. Also has a bit of backfire going on when you let off the gas pedal as well.  

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.  

Hey Gregory,

Yes, I did manage to finally figure out what was causing the  hesitation and stalling - the ignition coil. The thing is, when I tested the faulty coil, everything came back according to spec. It was only because there was literally nothing else that could be wrong, and I found a cheap replacement part on Amazon that I thought I would throw another part at it.  After installing the new coil, the problem was solved.  I assume that the original coil was faulty and when it warmed up, that's when it would begin to glitch. Oddly though, the side by side will still backfire sometimes after  you chop the throttle following heavy acceleration . I blame China.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Im also having an issue with my hisun ys 400 hesitating upon accelerating once warm, when its cold it runs smooth with tons of power, Im considering replacing the carb. but I havent checked into the ignition system i guess.  I have cleaned the carb in an ultrasonic parts cleaner. Does anyone have a procedure for testing the coil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On ‎7‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 2:57 AM, Tomoto said:

Hey Gregory,

Yes, I did manage to finally figure out what was causing the  hesitation and stalling - the ignition coil. The thing is, when I tested the faulty coil, everything came back according to spec. It was only because there was literally nothing else that could be wrong, and I found a cheap replacement part on Amazon that I thought I would throw another part at it.  After installing the new coil, the problem was solved.  I assume that the original coil was faulty and when it warmed up, that's when it would begin to glitch. Oddly though, the side by side will still backfire sometimes after  you chop the throttle following heavy acceleration . I blame China.

Mine was a faulty fuel injector. Less than 150 hours on it.  Now its making a loud thumping noise from the differential.  Hope its just a drive shaft u-joint.  Not impressed with the Hisun at all. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By darth vadner
      I have a 2019 hi sun 750 I parked it in my garage last fall and about a month later I went to ride it and I had no power but the battery shows good. I’ve taken the ignition switch out and cleaned it. I cleaned the battery terminals and replace the main relay all my fuses are good. I still show strong battery but get no power, can anyone help or have any ideas? I have yet to find any wires chewed up like from a mouse or anything all the wiring looks good. 
    • By Jim D
      MSU 500 does nothing when you turn the key. No power to display, fuel pump or anything. Come back a while later and everything works perfect. Starts right up. Battery is fully charged. Could this be the ignition going bad. When it doesn't power up I've found nothinf that will correct it other then waiting and trying later.
    • By jcbigg
      When I try to start my AXIS 500 (from Lowes) there is a buzzing sound coming from the battery compartment and it will not turn over/start. The battery is showing 12.47 volts so that does not appear to be the issue, are there any suggestions on where to look next?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By BuggyBoy
      So these Giant 48v/110ah batteries have just become available: https://www.aussiebatteries.com.au/giant-100ah-48v-lithium-golf-cart-deep-cycle-battery
      They look like they could drop in either side of the Controller that sits in the middle of the tray as they are 330mm(W) 355(L) 295mm(H). They can be paralleled, and I think two should be enough. Technically once paralleled the system should output 400ah continuous and 800ah Max (5 secs), more than enough for the E1 - probably 1/3rd more than is needed.
      However, the sales person stated that if the regen braking exceeded 400amps, it would put the batteries in standby mode for protection and they would have to be 're-started' with a jumper pack to reset them. Does anybody know the max output of the E1 Regen system, and if it does exceed that, is it possible to disable/bypass the regen so it has a zero output?
      Thanks.
       
×
×
  • Create New...