Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

2007 610 mule will foul a pug after 1 hr of run time on clock.  Plug will be black with sut.  Buddy go a 610 and it does same thing. Have had dealer adjust valves twice and still does it.  When i bought mule valves were ticking and I ran it that way for some time and took it in and dealer adjusted valves and that is when problem started.  I rechecked valves and the were tight and I adjusted to .005 and still fouls plug.  I always use no ethenal gas and have gone to a hotter plug.  I have read that this is a common problem with mule.  Any help appreciated.

Posted

Yea that is my next move but doesn't seem to be rich but may be.  I have read and heard that the 610 is bad to foul plugs.  Thanks for the reply.

Posted

No smoke and doesn't smell like the carb is rich exhaust muffler pipe is black.   I ran it out on the road for about 3 miles and pulled plug and it looked pretty good.  Like a lot of guys my mule idles a lot and puttering around the yard a lot so not a lot of wide open throttle.  My friend has a mule just like mine and it does same thing.  When I bought the mule used it had a valve ticking but ran fine.  I ran the mule like this for probably a yr or so and never fouled a plug.  Took it to a dealer and they adjusted the valves and that is when the plug fouling began.  Have had dealer re-adjust since then and same thing.  I went in and checked valves myself they were about .002 and I loosened them up to .005 and am going to see if that helps before I do the carb cleaning adjusting.  Thanks for your replys.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, I'd have to think that the valve adjustment is the likely suspect. I guess the real question would be. Why does the fouling get worse, when the valves are properly adjusted? I'd probably lean out the air/fuel a bit. See if it helps. 

Posted

The valve specks are .0039 to .0059 and dealer told me initially they set them a little tight and I didn't question it.   I hate to hear a valve tick but I may set them at .007 and see what happens.  Funny it didn't foul until dealer tightened them down to around .002.  Again I have read on several sites that the mule is bad to do this and my friends does same thing.  I always run no corn gas and add seafoam or marvil mystery oil.  Thanks for reply

Posted

I'd try the maximum factory spec. Of .0059. Maybe you can lose the tick, and minimize fouling. Maybe even try .0060, or .006. If you don't like the ticking( me either) maybe you can split the difference. You'll probably still have fouling. Maybe that can be addressed by other means. Like leaning the mix, or the hotter plugs. 

Posted

Yea I may set valves to loose .006.  I have a hotter plug and closed gap to ,025 instead of .030.  I have almost an hr. on the clock run time and hasn't fouled yet so we will see.   Mule only  has 350 yrs so not worn out and has been taken care of by me since owning it about 7 yrs. Thanks again for replying.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Just an update from several months ago.  As noted had carb cleaned and air filter changed and helped a lot but have had plug foul twice in several months.  Battery was weak and finally died so I replace it with a lawn mower batter i already had with a little mod to the hold down device.  Mule runs much much better and has not fouled a plug since, have pulled the plug several times to inspect and no where near as black and suttey as before so I am assuming the weak battery was the cause or at least a big part of it.  What U guys think?   Thanks and b well

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi bjones. I have an '04 550.  When I bought it 3 years ago, it had a lawn and garden battery in it and they last a lot longer than the small atv/utv batteries.  I'm not sure the battery has any effect on the firing of the cylinder since it fires off the flywheel magnet and the coil. But ya never know. I don't know if you looked at my thread or not about the overnight compression loss, but as Travis said, sometimes they have a mind of their own...

 

Roger

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
    • By MilSurpYinzer
      Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
      I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
      A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
      A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
      Tire chains for the winter
      And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
      Bumpers because duh.
      I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
      Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
      Thanks so much!
    • By Timbo
      I never see videos of hear of people taking these things to the big trails. Do you ? I just got one and want to.
       
    • By jugliner
      I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed.  It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage.  I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up.  I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter.  I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging.  I reset the ECU after every component swap.
      I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
       
      Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps.   The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped.  BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
       
      Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...