Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

guys- machine ran fine - Pushed button to put in 4 wheel drive and the machine died- I have power at battery and to the fuses but everything is dead-- PLEASE let em know of any ideas- I really do not know what else to look for- thanks

Posted

Come on guys someone must have an idea-= Checked again and I have no power coming to wiring harness ignition switch- anyone know where the safety switches are located= really not sure where to look anymore please help--

Posted

Sounds like a dead short in that swith, or somewhere in that circuit. Probably blew a main fuse. You said you've got power TO the fuses. What about after? Limbs, and rocks, and other road debris is often the culprit here. Check the switch with a continuity tester. Then look around underneath where the wires go into the front drive. Or the transaxle or whatever it has. 

It's possible that it's something else, but since it happened when you hit the button. That's where I'd start looking. If it's a push button activated 4wd. There's a relay that'll drive the actuator. Both those are prime suspects.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CSM_Retired
      Has anyone installed the power dump on a Kioti K9? If so, does it eliminate the safety lock? Does it work well?
      Thanks for your input
    • By Homeowner A
      What's the best replacement battery option for a Coleman UTV 400?  
    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Jon Spruill
      Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...