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Posted

After a bit of experimenting it would seem to be after max discharge rate is reached. If I go up the hill in low then all is fine - external battery monitor shows charging to 100%, battery lights all show 100%.
If go up in high then i get batteries discharged to different levels and charging shows odd readings. 
I suspect some of the batteries are exceeding thier 10sec 400a discharge and becoming a unbalanced with the rest of the pack. The onboard charger then thinks the lower batteries are two low to charge and wont charge. 
Isolating the batteries and then using an external charger that can charge from a low state of discharge to bring them back up seems to work. The Delta charger then brings the pack back up to 100%.
I think I need a 5th battery to deal with the very steep hill and spread the load, and keep it in low. Should solve the issue.

Posted
11 hours ago, Udo from G-Saarland said:

Thanks a lot for your fast answer! I'm going to try this and report.

Here is my report: It did not solve the problem. But thanks a lot for the idea.

After that I tried this but endend up with more problems. It is not good for the E1! No more reaction after pushing the acceleration-pedal.

Then charged the car with the internal charger. That seems to effect a kind of reset.

So now i am back to zero, puh! Car works much better with Lithium but in my case effected some problems with the dash and the reward-lights.

Posted
On 8/11/2025 at 2:28 PM, Gorj said:

I have never had any seat belt warnings. I removed the seat belts the first day I had it. I also sawed off the intrusive bar on the drivers left side and put covers on the stubs. I also removed the backup buzzer. For the last five years i have never seen any fault codes, and never received any when converting to lithium batteries. The only two issues I have experienced with the E1 is the faulty parking brake setup. I have installed a brake pedal lock designed for a Polaris as a parking brake, and in the last year the four wheel drive no longer works.

I just replaced the emergency brake pads on mine. As they were adjusted to the max, and would no longer hold the vehicle on even a slight hill.    The e-brake is one of the weakest design points on this unit. primarily because of two issues; 1) the ebrake micro switch is an overpriced $40 fragile piece of crap that breaks repeatedly and is a real pita to change. 2) If the switch is broken, you can easily drive the unit with the brake engaged.  The electric drive motor has enough torque to easily overpower the wimpy disc brake and drive nearly as if it weren't engaged at all..    

The $14 e-brake  pads I found on eBay fit; however, the pad material is too thick, and the calipers won't spread far enough to let the disc between the pads.   So I used the one of the new pads and the least worn of the old pads.   It holds on a hill fine now.   

I refuse to buy any more ebrake micro switches (I have bought 3 now) as it is both easier and less expensive to replace the brake pads compared to the switch.   I have tried to source less expensive switches but have been unable to.   I am now self-trained to always check to see if the e-brake is disengaged before driving the unit. 

I bent my pedal from trying to apply enough pressure to hold the unit on a hill.  The pedal just bent sideways.   I had to remove and re-inforce it.

The e-brake design is horrible.  It is overly complicated, inadequate, and fragile.  I have used my E1 nearly everyday for 5 years now, and the e-brake is my only major, recurring complaint. The ebrake is essential on an e1 unless  you live on perfectly flat ground.

I will be looking into the Polaris pedal lock you mentioned, Gorj.   By the way, my seat belt warning system was also removed when I first got the unit, and it has never caused an issue.

Posted
17 minutes ago, Cougsfan said:

I just replaced the emergency brake pads on mine. As they were adjusted to the max, and would no longer hold the vehicle on even a slight hill.    The e-brake is one of the weakest design points on this unit. primarily because of two issues; 1) the ebrake micro switch is an overpriced $40 fragile piece of crap that breaks repeatedly and is a real pita to change. 2) If the switch is broken, you can easily drive the unit with the brake engaged.  The electric drive motor has enough torque to easily overpower the wimpy disc brake and drive nearly as if it weren't engaged at all..    

The $14 e-brake  pads I found on eBay fit; however, the pad material is too thick, and the calipers won't spread far enough to let the disc between the pads.   So I used the one of the new pads and the least worn of the old pads.   It holds on a hill fine now.   

I refuse to buy any more ebrake micro switches (I have bought 3 now) as it is both easier and less expensive to replace the brake pads compared to the switch.   I have tried to source less expensive switches but have been unable to.   I am now self-trained to always check to see if the e-brake is disengaged before driving the unit. 

I bent my pedal from trying to apply enough pressure to hold the unit on a hill.  The pedal just bent sideways.   I had to remove and re-inforce it.

The e-brake design is horrible.  It is overly complicated, inadequate, and fragile.  I have used my E1 nearly everyday for 5 years now, and the e-brake is my only major, recurring complaint. The ebrake is essential on an e1 unless  you live on perfectly flat ground.

I will be looking into the Polaris pedal lock you mentioned, Gorj.   By the way, my seat belt warning system was also removed when I first got the unit, and it has never caused an issue.

What’s the Polaris peddle lock solution? Need this as well - truley a crap design on the Hisun! 
any links available to it? 

Posted

Go to eBay and enter this:  Parking Brake Replacement For Spring Brake Thingy For Polaris RZR 900 1000Ranger.  With a little modification it work fine. Mounts on brake pedal bracket.

Posted

Looks simple enough.   So I assume the spring-loaded red hook-shaped part on this 'thingy" latches on to the brake pedal when you push the pedal down?   And then you push on the tab on the red part to release it?   If that is correct, what keeps it from latching the brake down every time you step on the brakes?

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