Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was reading on another site that Joyner was going to come out with electric diff locks, Is this true ? When I was at the dealer all of the troopers on the floor fad the lever type with cable. I wont buy until probally Feb or March but want to take in as I can learn andd be prepared.

if there to be push button locks should I have one ordered, I would perfer black and they dont one there so would waiting and getting one around that time insure electric diff locks

Posted

Heard about the electric locks a year ago but nothing to date. I wouldn't wait for electric locks as the manuals have been no problem. Just one less thing to fail. There is suppose to be some body redesigns I have heard.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
I was reading on another site that Joyner was going to come out with electric diff locks, Is this true ? When I was at the dealer all of the troopers on the floor fad the lever type with cable. I wont buy until probally Feb or March but want to take in as I can learn andd be prepared.

if there to be push button locks should I have one ordered, I would perfer black and they dont one there so would waiting and getting one around that time insure electric diff locks

I agree with rocmoc, stay with the manual engagers. I'm currently having trouble with my electric 4 wheel drive as the very light module on the front dif. is failing to work properly. I was out in a spot where I needed 4 wheel to get back so I just removed the module off the diff. The default position of the dif. itself is engaged for 4 wheel drive. I'm going to build a good quality and reliable mechanical mechanism to do the job even though it's under extended warrenty.

Lenny

Posted
My diff lock on the rear is not working do I need to move the cable in or out to get it to engage?

I only go to see my diff lock for a moment at the dealer when it failed to engage, it looked like the sleeve that slides in and out could be reversed to fix the problem I had. It looked like it had tried to engage while thing were spinning and rolled the teeth a little. To disengage, the cable pushes the sleeve in against a spring, and the spring's push is what causes things to engage.

If you take it apart, Please take some photos to post of it and the insides of the diff also.

Thank you

Jeff

Posted
My diff lock on the rear is not working do I need to move the cable in or out to get it to engage?

It locks when the cable is pulled on. There 2 adjusters, one at the dif and the other behind the lever on the dash.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
    • By Hunterman22
      Can anyone please tell me or send a link as to how & where to hook up a code reader to my 2021 Hisun 500 Axis.  I have a 6 pin to a 18 pin  adaptor and the blue cord VAG KKL adaptor .Just not sure where or what to hook up to. Can I use your typical vehicle code reader or do I need to download something on a laptop or PC???
       
    • By 180gtr
      Parting out a rolled Sand viper 1100. I will list some of the parts I have, otherwise ask me if there is something specific you are looking for. I am selling everything I have for $800. I am located near Glenwood Springs CO.
      SOLD ITEMS, I do not have these items.
      Wheels
      Tires
      Engine
      Transmission
      Axles
      Shocks
      Control Arms
      Things I have....These all came off of the running engine. I have video of it running if anyone needs to verify that.
      Throttle Body $90
      Starter $150
      Alternator $150
      Fuel rail, injectors, fpr $100
      fuel pump $70
      Map Sensor $50
      Full set of Guages $150
      Exhaust w cat, O2 SOLD
      Ignition Coil - SOLD
      Wiring harness and ecu SOLD
      Radiator, shroud, elec fan, overflow tank $200
      Fuel tank w sender $150 Has dent at base of fuel neck, no leaks
      I have a box full of misc bolts, nuts, etc.
      I will sell the Chassis or Frame alone for $200. The chassis is in pretty good shape, needs some cage repair and 2 areas straightened where control arms mount. If anyone had an automotive frame machine it would take a few hours.
      That would include....
      Brake calipers, lines, pedal, master cyl, E brake assy,
      Steering shaft, wheel
      Ignition switch, key
      Light bar frame, 2 lights
      misc hardware, spindles
      2 hubs, rotors
      Engine mounts
      Throttle pedal, cables
      Shifter, cables
      Clutch master, pedal
      I am sure I am forgetting something.
      I am parting this out of ebay right now, I just picked up another project and could use the room. No I will not take less than $700 for all of it or $200 for the frame. I do not need to sell it, I will make far more parting it out but would like the extra space in the garage.
      If interested I also have an 07 1000rr engine setup I would sell with the buggy for $650.
      Thanks!
















    • By Jody Deville
      I’m looking to best place to buy replacement axles for the rear in my buggy. Both axles are bad. Where is the best place to find them?
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


×
×
  • Create New...