Quantcast
Jump to content

rocmoc

It won't come out!

Recommended Posts

You guys are thing u-joints in the drive line, you are running a cv joint, it does not mater. Look at your front axle with the cvs in the front axles, they are going every way you can think off with every angle. As far as mounting the diff i believe in rubber, but i do not think it would work good in the diff, to much movement to waller the holes. I mounted mine solid with extra gusets. Rocmoc the rear tires on you are leaning the wrong way alittle, the cv joint will work fine as long as it is not binding. My drive line i tried to keep paralel because of not knowing the bearing in the diff or the trany as to how strong they are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Flatbed remarked that your tires were leaning and it does look like that in your photo, is it? and if so, how can that be unless you've tweaked your suspension.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm posting this again as my previous post never showed up, at least not yet. flatbed, you said you kept your, I assumed wheels, parellel. Isn't this a function of the as manufactured geometry? If you made changes to that, how did you do it. The only thing I see is that geometry would have to be changed but cannot just be adjusted. Looking at my Trooper, where the rear arm pivots at the frame, the outter pivot point bracket is about 3/32" lower then the inner bracket on both sides. I don't know rather this is normal or not. Maybe others could check theirs to see if these brackets are welded on consistantly accurate. My wheels set vertical. The other thing is that the axel is at about a 10 degree angle to a line drawn through the pivot point bolts. If you were to swing the arm to total vertical, of course you can't, the rear spindle would be pointing up at about a 10 degree angel. This would put the wheels tipped in on the top by 10 degrees. So as the arm goes from full droop to full bump, the angle of the wheels change. I havn't checked at which point in the suspension swing they are at vertical. Depending on where it is at when standing could thus effect the stance of the wheels. Right now my Troopers rear is about 4" down from full droop and I have 14 1/2" fo travel

Just some thoughts.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe we are talking about 2 different things, i am talking about the drive line angles wether they are axles or the drive line. The back is a cv drive line now. When changing the location of the rear diff i lowered mine plus moved it forward changing all the angles fron stock, since we are running cv,s the same rules do not apply as they would if we were running u-joints.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the early units there was some neg. camber in the rear wheels. Later they took it out. I don't mind it, lets me corner faster, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the early Trooper with the wielded skid plates. I had to remove the one under the engine when I put the new driveline in. I am replacing with aluminum diamond plate. Question is, Diamonds in toward the engine or diamonds out towards the rocks & dirt? I don't think it really makes a difference and the seal/fit is better with the diamonds out. What ya think? I don't think aero drag and down-force is an issue, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would put the smooth side down. If you get high centered, you'll be glad you did, especially on dirt. I would think you would want the bottom to be as smooth as possible to skim better over anything it may come in contact with. I plan on adding skid plates to the areas under the seats and floor boards. Twice now I clipped a rock that kicked up and bottomed quite hard along the underside of my Trooper. The step from the skid plates to the floor plates caught the rock both times and the tubing took a heavy impacting blow each time. One tube is actually punched in 1/2 it's diameter. This is an extreme example of what an uneven underside contributes to. Another time I high cenbtered with a rock trapped in the area under the floor boards. It was impossible to manipulate it free and finally had to get wenched. IMHO the less you have to catch anything, the better.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My skid plates are ALL wielded on. Later Joyner realized this was a mistake and started bolting them on. I had to cut the rear plate off and will add an aluminum plate held on with flat U-bolts I will make out of threaded 1/4" stock. The bolts will be inside and there will be six of the U-bolts.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Gary Nations
      Just got a Champion 2000lb winch for Father's Day. Going on a 2018 Mule 4010 Trans used on the farm. Anyone have any experience/ tips for mounting? Front mount so what do I need?
      Thanks in advance.
    • By Mac Spencer
      Hi friends,

      I have a 2009 Kawasaki Mule Trans 4x4 that I have been having trouble with. For a while now, the DFI light will immediately light and the Mule will have loss of power. I'm not sure where to go in my diagnostic process. I have heard that you can access the EFI system's diagnostic codes by switching the 4x4 on and off three times, however, I do not get any blink codes. Do I need to use the Kawasaki Diagnostic Software for this? Really trying to avoid taking it to the dealership.

      Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
    • By 2-8
      There have been so many forum members waiting for the end of the stop sale and the homecoming of their Mules I wanted us to celebrate it "finally" starting to come to an end.
      I thought it would be fun to have a place to share photographs and info on our new arrivals. 
      Please post a photo and any information you would care to share about accessories, etc.
      I would love to start things off but alas,  my Mule is still stuck in Stop Sale Purgatory.  Lol!
    • By johnpeter
      2018 Yamaha YXZ1000R SE Team Yamaha Blue On Ebay

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Yamaha-YXZ1000R-SE-Team-Yamaha-Blue/264681912161?
       

    • By TIC
      hi. i got a 2017 warrior 700 . fuel injected, suddenly it wont idle, wont start unless i press peddle then it starts with clutch engaged, i can tell  the cicuit aint working for idle maybe fuse. ordered manual from sc autosports, taking its sweet time , dont know were anything is , is there a fuse block or something, anyone familier with the fuel injection on them things


×
×
  • Create New...