Need help 2010 Kawasaki mule 600 voltage regulator
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By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
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By Coleman400
Hey all. I need to change my plug in my ut400 and I remember seeing people in here saying to get a certain one that was better than what it came with. What was it?
Also I need to do an oil change. Are the tractor supply oil change kits ok to use?
Any help here is appreciated!
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By aefron88
This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil
The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
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By Steve R
after looking at the diagnostic procedures in this forum, I am finding my Gunner 250 does not have an engine warning light on the dash. i have tried to see if any other symbols flash, but nothing seems to project an error code. i have not engine spark. I do not get a start of the fuel pump. I have replaced the ignition coil, the ECU (MT05) and the voltage regulator. I could really use a diagram for the 250 model. i need a place to start checking the electrical system.
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By Irons
Hopefully this helps somebody because I couldn't find any info on this runaway condition.
Drove 1/2 mile to the gas station and when I started up to leave the starter stuck on. Turn key off starter is still running~! Limp it home wondering what the heck to do, get it in the garage and pull the negative battery terminal to get it to stop. Whew, WTF?
Calm down and start checking things, starter is hot of course but nothing is smoking and nothing smells burnt. Pull battery cover off and start checking wires from battery to relay and relay to the starter. OK good nothing is hot, nothing is crispy and nothing is melted. Probably smoked the starter though. If this had happened to my wife and I wasn't around the machine would have run until the battery died and probably melted down/burned.
I'll get to the point to save you folks some time and trouble. Because this is a kymco machine you need 2 different Kawasaki parts to make this repair, and information is scarce to say the least. The switch and a sub harness to connect it to the machine's plug.
Everything works now, but the starter sounds horrible so I'll be changing that too before spring.
Good luck out there and hopefully this is just a freak occurrence, but if I were you I'd get rid of this kymco part and put the Kawasaki replacement in now.
Switch, Magnetic is part number 27010-0767
Sub Harness Start Relay is part number 26031-Y034
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