Quantcast
Jump to content

Lenny

Speedo and tack gauge problem

Recommended Posts

Recently both my speedo and tack guages quit working. I unpluged the gauges at the gauge pigtail and reinserted with lots of wiggling, same with the sensors on the engine and checked the engine ground. Also there are two white multi wire connectore just over the rear top of the battery. My dealer said the gauge wires goes thru one of these, not sure which yet nor did he know if both gauges go thru one or both. These I also checked by unpluging. One thing I did find is that one of the connectors had a fair amount of sand in it. You may want to check yours. Probably taping these to seal them would be a good idea. I cleaned out the sand hoping that would be the problem, but no luck.

I'm sort of at a dead end except for checking the continuity of the each wire. Doesn't sound real easy to do that. Hoping someone has an idea before I dive into testing wires. I would appreciate any help anyone has to offer.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look at each wire in both halves' of the connector. The wires back out of the plastic connector so they do not make contact with the mate when the two pieces of the plug are pushed together. Push each wire into both male and female connectors before you push the connector together. Maybe?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lenny, the tach & speed signals are square waves. I'll check to make sure after a while and post what I find, I have to take my laptop down stairs and use it as an oscilliscope.

Everyone, Open this PDF and save it to file for future use.

2786956440104282158aWAIhm_th.jpg Here's the pins for the output signals from the computer.

kinarfi

attachment removed 5-14-09, needed the storage space, if it comes back it will be in the parts and pieces post pinned to the top of the first page, in the mean time, PM me with your email address.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lenny as rocmoc said plus try white grease spray. It is a water repellent and is 100% water resistant. I suspect it's more water than dirt that has got into your electric connecters and water will travel up your wires. Unplug, inspect, clean and spray all connecters that you can to help prevent future problems. This is a fat based type of grease and would recommend to everyone. It will stop sand & dirt too but it will stick so try not to have to much excess on the outside.

Cheers Mike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rocmoc, thanks for your input on the pins pushing out, I didn't look for that but I will.

Brostar, thanks for the good input about the white greese spray.

Kinarfi, thanks for the wiring diagram and pin numper information. I didn't have the pin information in the manual I downloaded some time ago and printed out. Now maybe I'll have a chance on tracking contunity of the individual wires. Do you know if there is a way to check the gagues themselves? Is there a way I can check for the signal comming from the sensors and the computer with my VOM?

If you guys want to come and live at my house, your welcome. Your wifes too of coarse. You would be awfull handy to have around. :D Good company too.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the issue of the plugs, I have always used dielectric grease on all plugs. I was always told to not use regular grease because it would conduct electricity. All I know is that I have never had a problem with water in a connector or had any other problems after filling them with dielectric grease.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a bit of research with dielectric grease and as it turns out this is the best possible product you can you use for electrical connecters. It's so good, that's all they use in the computer industry now. Forget about white grease spray and use dielectric grease. Thanks Russ.

Cheers Mike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did some more checking today, the tach signal is definitely square wave and has 2 cycles per revolution, thus at 900 rpm, idle, it cycles 1800 times per min or 30 Hz, here is the plug that handles the signal. I think it was a gray wire, but that's from memory!

2869781790104110397gCcxnF_th.jpg2467394180104110397YVfTDz_th.jpg2867480200104110397aCROAs_th.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed that most of the plugs on the joyners have a good seal on them, but there are some important ones without a rubber seal and I think that may be one of them. I also had a 1100 sand viper that we went to move yesterday and it was running and then died. Got to checking around because the fuel pump and the fan wouldnt come on when you turned on the ignition, found that the top half of fuse box didnt have juice and started pulling plugs and found one that one pin was bent by whoever put it together and wasnt in the splice for it, it was just touching the side and had got hot and melted the plastic just enough to loose connection.

Also on the trooper, had mine die the other day and wouldnt start, got to looking around and it didnt have any pressure at the regulator, pulled the line off and the pump was working fine, so I took the line that comes from the pump and put it on the return nipple, turned on the key for just a sec. and then hooked it back up and it was fine. Didnt know if anyone has had a problem with maybe a small piece of something getting into the reg and blocking it? It has worked fine every since then.

Sorry about getting off subject, You can buy dielectric grease at about any auto store around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found my problem. I checked all involved wires for continunity and shorting and all was OK. Thanks to kinarfi, the schmatics he provided helped me to figure out te wiring. It would be easier if some of them weren't in chinese. After checking the connectors and the wiring and finding it ok, I figured that it had to be either the RPM senser, speed senser, Tack, speedo or computer. Strongly suspected the computer because both the speedo and tack weren't working. It would be unlikely that both would go out at once. Brought all five items to my dealer and asked if I could change them out with a working Trooper in the hopes to find something bad. He said to go ahead use the super charged Trooper. My tack and pickup senser worked fine so I went right to the computer. When I put my computer in his machine, the speedo and tack failed to work. He is ordering me a new computer. Boy I'm glad I went for the $900.00 three year warrenty. Getting your dealer to allow you to substitute your componets into a good system is about the only way we can check some of these things without having all the specs and testing equipment.

Good to have it behind me, electrical problems can be tough to find. Thanks for everybody's input. :rolleyes:

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lenny, that dealer deserves a mention. In fact we should have a thumbs up section for people who help others including dealers like JGS UTVS who helped gumball recently with the 4wd actuator. It would be an incentive for dealers over a period of time to stand out as one of the good guys that can be trusted for all future UTV buyers, not just Joyner on this site. What do you think Kinarfi, rocmoc and Paiute3? Buy the way, where is Cinda and flatbed?

Cheers Mike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • Anyone know where I can have my Cam re-ground?

      I have a SOHC in my 800cc buggy, i’m looking to do some performace mods like head valves ect. I’m just having a hard time finding a place that can re grind my cam locally. I don’t mind shipping it but just need some recommendations thanks 

      By KTMspeedFreak, in General Discussion - Anything

      • 7 replies
      • 150 views
    • Polaris Ranger 800 11-16 4x4 6x6 Crew Engine Motor Rebuilt

      Polaris Ranger 800 11-16 4x4 6x6 Crew Engine Motor Rebuilt On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-800-11-16-4x4-6x6-Crew-Engine-Motor-Rebuilt/361534749653?  

      By johnpeter, in UTV Off-Road Classifieds - Buy & Sell

        
      • 0 replies
      • 150 views
    • Speedo Calibrate

      So now that I have the seat belt extension problem solved, when I'm riding the UXV, I look at the speedometer and it shows a whopping 50mph  (not kph)....Sure doesnt feel like Im going that fast so I clocked it with a GPS.... At 40mph on the speedometer, I'm reading 35mph on the GPS.   At 50mph, Im reading 38mph... This shows that not only is the speedometer reading fast, (Read also putting mileage on the machine at an accelerated rate) but the degree of error changes with the different speeds... Calculation wise it reads 26% fast at 50mph(on Speedo) and 20% fast at 40mph (on Speedo). So, the question for the group is, How does one make the Speedo more accurate on these machines..... I have read all kinds of solutions- the most hilarious one I read was to go down to a sign shop and have them make little decals to change the numbers on a manual speedo....This one of course is digital..   I'm more interested in making the odometer more accurate as since they want you to do service work of some kind every 500 miles, it makes a lot of sense to at least get 500 miles between the service points- not an inflated mileage age...  

      By Heck, in Kymco UTV SxS Forum

      • 3 replies
      • 292 views
    • Engine Swap Thread

      Hey Everyone, I’ve created a few other threads and a bit disappointed at the limited responses the forums seem to get. So rather than asking about an engine swap i’d like to share some information with others here in an effort to generate some discussion! So i’ve done much research on engine swaps for my 800cc buggy, and my ideal swap would be a suzuki swift gti engine, however they seem to be rare and very expensive if you can ever locate one. The only ones i’ve seen are going for $3500+ which is completely rediculaous becuase the purpose of an engine swap should be to get an inexpensive engine that parts are available for, the suzuki swift is neither. So in my research, i’m specifically looking for a naturally aspirated lightweight aluminum engine that produces “acceptable” power. Far as I can tell such a thing rarely exists in the US, which is probably why the G13b engines are so redicualously overpriced. What I have found, and present to you is a  Mitsubishi Mirage 1.2L It’s an all aluminium, lightweight 3 cylinder NA engine that’s producing 74HP and 74ft lbs torque. Not crazy power numbers I know, BUT for an NA 170lb readily available, AND cheap engine those are not bad in its stock form. Certainly those of you looking to get a little crazier than I can drop a turbo in and up those base numbers.  Far as I can tell in my research No one has done this engine swap to date, so I suppose I will have to go fist... I am not quite ready to take on a project of this magnitude but will likely make this my winter/spring project and hope to have it completed by early/late spring next year. I will of course document the install and process once it gets under way. In the meantime please feel free to use this thread to discuss other possible engine swap projects or ideas for such! I love me some buggy action and can’t wait to get this swap underway.

      By KTMspeedFreak, in UTV General Discussion

      • 0 replies
      • 174 views
    • Engine Swap in 800 what do I need to know?

      So i’ve been looking into various options with going forced induction or a new chery etc but having a carb setup it’s kinda tricky for me... Not to mention the cost of prob 2.5k minimum.  So ive been looking for car engines that would be the right cost, availability , size power etc.  I found some great cheap options from Misubishi and Chevy, the 1.2L mirage and spark engines respectively but they are both efi. Question 1 how much more difficult will it be to switch over to EFI from my carb setup?  Question 2 what are some common problem areas I may encounter? both engines should fit and i’m sure i’ll have to weld up some custom engine mounts. What about a diff and cv joints? anything else I may not be considering with a swap of this magnitude?

      By KTMspeedFreak, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 0 replies
      • 131 views
×