Quantcast
Jump to content

HiSun Sector E1 Error code E038 and E013 what does it mean?


Jurg

Recommended Posts

E013 is an issue with loose connection or an external device interfering with charging. 
got same with mine but can’t see any loose wires or connections and no other device has been installed. 

have emailed manufacturer of charger with details and data log from charger. 
 

did you resolve it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'E013 - Charger Output Current NotAccepted - Battery voltage is detected but the charger is unable to output current. This is normally caused by an electrical device connected between the charger and the battery which passes through voltage but not current.  Poor connections can also cause this.  Ensure the charger is properly connected to approved equipment. This error will automatically clear once the charger is reset by cycling DC or AC'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suggest you check all the cabling back to the main connections to the battery pack. They are under the central hoop under the seat look for the connector with the plastic block and two leads, thats one of the charge cables. The second lead  is the temp sensor lead in that plastic  block. But check all the battery connections. Also check under the cover of the Delta Q charger on the right (passenger side ) side are all the wire connections take off the cover (two torx screws) and then carefully check the tightness of the torx screws holding the two larger charge leads . Its easier to take the front wheel off than simply inserting your head between the wheel and the front arch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took off the small cover on charger and cables look ok and were all tight. 
however, decided to add another pos cable to bypass current pos cable from charger to battery as a test before I dismantled for warranty testing/return and it worked, now charging and no fault. 
The Pos/Neg charger cables seem too small a gauge for the current (3-4mm?) going through them.  I’m going to upgrade the charging harness to 6mm to stop overheating and cable breakdown. 
Thanks for your advice. Are you Hisun EV support or independent? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a loose connection on the front battery, second row from the left. On the same row one battery back there is a connection with a (former) 30 amp fuse holder. That connection on the battery was not completely tightened. But the fuse holder cap was unusually bulged and the cap fused to the body. Further investigation revealed that the fuse inside was completely melted and disintegrated. I am going to fix that and hope that this will resolve the problem. It definitely looks like all your comments are correct. Thanks to everybody!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cable for the charger DC side  is normally quite adequate. You will struggle to get larger in to the housing easily. Dont solder only crimp. If you cant crimp get someone who can. And you will need to ensure the negative side has the temp sensor connection.

Im not  connected to Hisun, but I do Hisun E1 Li Ion conversions in the UK. So see them on an almost constant basis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All new steel and ally battery enclosures, all new battery / connection cabling,  New loom for the Battery management / Vehicle interface/ charger, new small display, New algorithm on the Charger, re programe the Sevcon , New rear arch cover sections to reduce crud. New mains inlet and relay box in the front compartment. So not a lot , just takes me about 4 days start to finish  with all the parts ready made and in stock.  Some photos on my EV Support Facebook page   https://www.facebook.com/EVSupportUK

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By amiracle40995
      I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have. 

    • By Felderlostnspace
      2016, Hisun 500 turns over great but Spark plug is firing when I turn the ignition key on. I’ve got good fuel pressure to the injector. Pulled plug out and it is wet with. gasoline. Air filter is clean. Turns over great just does not even try to pop or start.. I’ve checked off uses and they are good when I turn the key on I’m getting power to the injector.. I’m not hearing the injector pulsing, but may just be my hearing.. With the spark plug getting wet with gas I feel like the injector is pulsing and spraying. Any suggestions would be great. I don’t know the hours on the unit offhand, but it has 600 miles on it. Thank you for your comments and advanced.
    • By Tejun
      Howdy Everyone,
      New member looking forward to learning and sharing more about UTVs. I have a 2019 Coleman Outfitter with the Hisun 550 engine. Does anyone know what Code Scanner will work with it ?  
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...