Creeping down our steep driveway after a 3 mile hilly run. Using the engine to help break. I'm in 4WD and Low "gear" mode. Suddenly there is a "release" type pop and the engine is no longer breaking as sometimes happens over a certain speed. No problem I apply more breaks and come to a rest down the hill. BUT this time the "back up" alarm is beeping and now the engine is just dead. Error code was initially 54C 2 but after resting overnight it now says 54C 3. As soon as the key turns on I get the alarm and nothing from the motor. It does look like the flashing engine thing shows a square box in the middle front is flashing. I have tried to find those codes but no luck yet. I wouldnt know what to do with them anyway. Any insights appreciated.--Bill
I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming). My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
I've been using a pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.
Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.
I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse. If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do. This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.
So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:
2 passenger (1 row)
Selectable gearing (not CVT)
Power-assisted dump bed
Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime. Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight. Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.
Selectable locking diff
Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension. Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds. Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".
Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
By Spencer Marks
I just finished replacing my front and rear drive shafts. I drained and put new dif fluid in the rear dif. I went to the local dealer and they told me the fill capacity of the front and the transmission as I want to replcae that as well but they could not tell me how to access the fill. One how do I access the fill for front dif and 2 is the transmission fill the same as the rear dif? I don't see a dip stick or fill for the transmission but all in same area.
Also, anyone can suggest a good shop/service manual for this bike?
By Sommer Wildes
TLDR (too long didn't read) in blue for quick scanning
Hey all! I'm new to the Side-by-side/UTV world. We own a smallish farm and decided to go with the 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew. We like the seating and the ride is smooth. However as a newbie I have some questions that maybe some of you longtime side-by-side/UTV owners can help with. We're still in the "break-in" period and it seems that after 30 min or less of driving the dash area gets super hot. You can feel the heat waves coming off the floorboard by your feet and my phone sitting in the little hole (where a radio might go) felt like I left it in the hot sun for too long. The glovebox was also way too hot.
So the question is, is this normal, or should I start checking engine coolant and filters? We literal have had it a day. I have read forums and looked up info and can't find anyone mentioning this issue. I just don't want to burn the thing up before we've even put it through it's paces ya know!
Thanks for any help!
By Joe Toup
There does not seem to be a lot of good sources out there for troubleshooting and diagnosing ECU problems with my Massimo Buck 400 (which is also a Bennche 400 & Cazador 400 only with different badging), so I thought I'd share some info that I found during my searches the past few days. I was trying to diagnose and repair a hard starting issue. Using the following info, I was able to figure it out. My ignition coil threw a 0351 code. I discovered how to read the codes without an OBDII code reader. The following procedures should help you check your fault codes and clear them if needed.
Fault Code Troubleshooting for Delphi MT05 ECM on the Massimo Buck 400, Bennche Bighorn 400, Bennche Cowboy 400, and Cazador 400
*NOTE: The MT05 ECU is not really OBD 2 compliant. It is much more similar to an OBDI system. I know this because I once converted a Suzuki Samurai from carburetor to a full on EFI system a while back and it had all of the same type of sensors as a Delphi EFI system. The MT05 ECU controls either 1 or 2 cylinder engines commonly found on Massimo, Bennche, and Cazador.
Much of the ECU info was found here:
https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 Manual.pdf
Delphi EFI System Design
Delphi EFI employs 5 sensors to monitor engine performance.
1. Crankshaft Position Sensor
2. Coolant Temperature Sensor
3. Oxygen Sensor
4. Throttle Position Sensor
5. Manifold Air Pressure/Manifold Air Temperature (MAP/MAT) Sensor
Delphi EFI employs the following system components.
1. MT05 Engine Control Unit (ECU)
2. Fuel Pump
3. Multec 3.5 Fuel Injector
4. Idle Speed Control Valve (Idle Stepper Motor)
5. Multec Ignition Coil
6. Fuel Vapor Canister Purge Valve
Using the Digital Dashboard to Decipher EFI Trouble Codes
In addition to the diagnostic scan tools, you can use the engine warning light of the Siemens dashboard to diagnose EFI problems. The digital dashboard receives signals from the MT05 ECU, and the engine warning light will flash a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the ignition key is switched on/off for three cycles.
When you turn on the ignition, the engine warning light will illuminate, which indicates the EFI system is operational. After the engine is started, the engine warning light will extinguish if the EFI system is working properly. However, if the engine warning light remains illuminated, it indicates the EFI system is not working properly, and there is a system component failure.
Deciphering Diagnostic Trouble Codes
To read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC), open and close the ignition key three times in rapid succession, as follows: open/close—open/close—open. At this point the engine warning light will flash a DTC which indicates the fault in the EFI system. Refer to the attached fault code table to identify the corresponding problem.
The engine warning light will emit a sequence of flashing lights. If the light flashes 10 times, the translated number is 0. If the light flashes one time, the translated number is 1, et cetera. For example, if the MAP/MAT sensor is disconnected, or the connector is shorted to ground, the engine warning light will flash in the following manner (This is an example only).
The engine warning light will flash 10 times: The first number of the DTC is 0
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 1 time: The second number of the DTC is 1
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 10 times: The third number of the DTC is 0
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 7 times: The fourth number of the DTC is 7
The resulting DTC is P0107.
In my case, I had an ignition coil failure that threw a code. When I checked, it was in this sequence: 10, 3, 5, 1. The 10 represents a 0. So the actual code was 0351. I fixed a loose wire and rebooted my ECU using the procedures I detailed below.
If there are other fault codes, the engine warning light will flash the next code in 3.2 seconds after finishing P0107. After all existing fault codes are flashed, the engine warning light will repeat the fault codes, in sequence, until the ignition key is turned off.
To clear fault codes you need an OBDII Fault Code reader and a Delphi 6 pin connector adapter cable that you have to order from China and wait 8 weeks…or you can simply reboot the ECU using the instructions detailed below.
Rebooting the ECU
Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU.
1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning.
3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.
TPS (throttle position sensor) re-learn procedure after rebooting ECU.
This must be done after replacing the TPS or the ECU....and after rebooting an ECU! Source: ECU Hacker. Reworded slightly to make it a more sensible flow in my mind. 1. Turn idle screw one full turn clockwise before starting 2. Start engine, run at low idle until engine warms. Maybe a couple mins. 3. Idle should be above 1500 rpm. If it isn’t, turn it up to 1700 then shut engine off. Do another reboot of ECU. 4. Restart engine and let it stabilize at 1700 rpm. Then turn idle screen down to 1500 rpm and let it stabilize for a few seconds. Once it stabilizes, set to final recommended idle speed for your machine. The placard under your seat should show idles speed, valve adjustment, spark gap, etc. mine shows 1600 rpm.
5. Shit it down. Wait 10-15 second before restarting. Procedure is now complete. Final Notes:
I have included pictures of the OBDII connector and the Delphi 6 pin connector in case anyone wants to go buy your own and build a connector to use for an OBDII reader. You can do the same thing with code reading and resetting using your check engine light on your dash. But some folks want to do it with code readers.
Hope this helps some folks. I have been scratching my head until tonight on how to reset my fault codes. Then I discovered all of this on some motorcycle forums. The source for the diagrams is here:
https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/
I am not a technician. I do not endorse any manufacturers. I am just an OCD driven old man that likes to work on my own crap. I have lots of time to figure things out. If you run into a problem that stumps you, give me a shout. I may be able to give you some ideas. Or maybe not. This system is essentially an OBDI and very simplistic. If you are methodical and patient, most problems can be figure out thru a process of elimination.