Quantcast
Jump to content


HiSun Sector E1 Error code E038 and E013 what does it mean?


Jurg

Recommended Posts

E013 is an issue with loose connection or an external device interfering with charging. 
got same with mine but can’t see any loose wires or connections and no other device has been installed. 

have emailed manufacturer of charger with details and data log from charger. 
 

did you resolve it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'E013 - Charger Output Current NotAccepted - Battery voltage is detected but the charger is unable to output current. This is normally caused by an electrical device connected between the charger and the battery which passes through voltage but not current.  Poor connections can also cause this.  Ensure the charger is properly connected to approved equipment. This error will automatically clear once the charger is reset by cycling DC or AC'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suggest you check all the cabling back to the main connections to the battery pack. They are under the central hoop under the seat look for the connector with the plastic block and two leads, thats one of the charge cables. The second lead  is the temp sensor lead in that plastic  block. But check all the battery connections. Also check under the cover of the Delta Q charger on the right (passenger side ) side are all the wire connections take off the cover (two torx screws) and then carefully check the tightness of the torx screws holding the two larger charge leads . Its easier to take the front wheel off than simply inserting your head between the wheel and the front arch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took off the small cover on charger and cables look ok and were all tight. 
however, decided to add another pos cable to bypass current pos cable from charger to battery as a test before I dismantled for warranty testing/return and it worked, now charging and no fault. 
The Pos/Neg charger cables seem too small a gauge for the current (3-4mm?) going through them.  I’m going to upgrade the charging harness to 6mm to stop overheating and cable breakdown. 
Thanks for your advice. Are you Hisun EV support or independent? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a loose connection on the front battery, second row from the left. On the same row one battery back there is a connection with a (former) 30 amp fuse holder. That connection on the battery was not completely tightened. But the fuse holder cap was unusually bulged and the cap fused to the body. Further investigation revealed that the fuse inside was completely melted and disintegrated. I am going to fix that and hope that this will resolve the problem. It definitely looks like all your comments are correct. Thanks to everybody!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cable for the charger DC side  is normally quite adequate. You will struggle to get larger in to the housing easily. Dont solder only crimp. If you cant crimp get someone who can. And you will need to ensure the negative side has the temp sensor connection.

Im not  connected to Hisun, but I do Hisun E1 Li Ion conversions in the UK. So see them on an almost constant basis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All new steel and ally battery enclosures, all new battery / connection cabling,  New loom for the Battery management / Vehicle interface/ charger, new small display, New algorithm on the Charger, re programe the Sevcon , New rear arch cover sections to reduce crud. New mains inlet and relay box in the front compartment. So not a lot , just takes me about 4 days start to finish  with all the parts ready made and in stock.  Some photos on my EV Support Facebook page   https://www.facebook.com/EVSupportUK

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By aefron88
      This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
      This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
      Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
      The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
      In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
      I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
      Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
      The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
      The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
      From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil

      The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
    • By Kingfish
      I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1.  I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386.  With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge.  When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be.  I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage.  My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it?  I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
      Hello,
      Background: Bought a used 2012 700, added 2 small LED lights, wiring for a sprayer and changed front CV axles. 
      Had no electrical issues until recently. The old battery stopped charging so we got a new one, Rhino still wouldn't charge it.
      -Started next day, drove 15-20min, then out of nowhere the check engine light came on and temp too. 4WD started to automatically engage and disengage repeatedly. Charging display started jumping all around between 11 to 13 to 15v.
      -Relays, fuses, and battery connections seemed good.
      -Continuity on rectifier would jump btwn OL and 00.0
      -Rectifier wires from stator all read 20-21v at idle
      -Rectifier diode test had 1 bad reading. So, I replaced it with a new one (but still using original plugs) 
      Started it up, still shows no change (12.1v idle, 12.8 with some RPM)
      Also, I feel like now I maybe also smell burning plastic?
      Does anyone have experience with this problem or have a recommendation of where to go next?
    • Sell your car with CarBrain
    • By Rick A
      I charged the battery reconnected everything but utv will not start and nothing comes on when key is turned. such as headlights, dash lights nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...