Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?

[Udo from G-Saarland]

23 minutes ago, Gorj said:

All of those issues you mentioned are run off the small 12 volt battery and have nothing to do with the drive battery. Did you reprogram the charger for the lithium battery?   I would check your 12 volt system. Possibly you have lost your 12 volt ground.  Good luck!

Thanks!

Yes, yesterday I reprogrammed the internal chager to profile 233. Was rel. easy to do thanks to this great utvboard/all you nice guys! But no effect to my problem.

I think you are right with the 12V-idea / ground. My multimeter says that the 12V-Battery is okay, but I don't trust it.

By the way I observed really high temperature at the red (to thin) wire around the 30A-fuse by using the internal charger. New dash shows 19A. 

Next steps and their effects will be reported here.

[hdtran]

2 hours ago, Udo from G-Saarland said:

Thanks!

Yes, yesterday I reprogrammed the internal chager to profile 233. Was rel. easy to do thanks to this great utvboard/all you nice guys! But no effect to my problem.

I think you are right with the 12V-idea / ground. My multimeter says that the 12V-Battery is okay, but I don't trust it.

By the way I observed really high temperature at the red (to thin) wire around the 30A-fuse by using the internal charger. New dash shows 19A. 

Next steps and their effects will be reported here.

You really want to use an automotive or motorcycle battery tester to test your 12 V battery, and not just a multimeter. The automototive tester will apply a load to the battery and measure the voltage while the battery is discharging through the load.

[Gorj]

Something I did with my E1 was to run a ground wire from the last drive battery - the negative that goes to the motor controller - to the chassis.

[mark walkom]

was chatting to delta-q about the charger profiles and they advised that for the ic1200-048;

Quote

Alg #386 has no scaling so applying capacity will not change anything. Just note that it has a 10hr timeout so on the IC1200 48V you will only get max 250Ah (25A x 10h) out of it.  But looks like your pack is smaller than that!

 

[Gorj]

I am not using the Delta-Q charger. I am using an ECO Worthy 48 volt 18amp Lithium charger. Works very well.

[BuggyBoy]

On 8/13/2025 at 3:55 AM, Gorj said:

Something I did with my E1 was to run a ground wire from the last drive battery - the negative that goes to the motor controller - to the chassis.

What does that do? 

[Gorj]

That just guarantees that the battery pack is grounded to the frame. Like for example, I have a volt meter connected to the + side of the drive batteries, but the negative side of the meter is grounded to the frame.  In a car the negative side of the battery is always grounded to the frame and the engine. Many vehicle electrical issues are due to loss of ground somewhere.

[thom0329]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I am looking to upgrade the batteries in my Sector E1 and wanted to make sure the below Vevor battery would work. Can I get some opinions?? https://www.vevor.ca/charger-station-box-c_12037/vevor-48v-105ah-golf-cart-lithium-battery-with-lcd-monitor-and-4000-cycles-p_010902913141

[Gorj]

That battery should work, but you might consider Humsienk's 4-12 volt battery pack at less than $500 from TEMU. They have a five year warranty and are expected to last ten years. Also by going the four 12 route, if you have a failure in one you only have to replace one, but if the 48 volt battery fails, you have a greater expense to replace it. Plus, the four batteries are much easier to install. I have had the Humsienk batteries in my E1 for several months and their performance is awesome. When you go with the lithium battery remember to reprogram your charger for lithium batteries.  Good luck.

[LAMA]

The battery will work if you drive it like a golf cart for which it is designed (flat and small hills). The seller states that you cannot use the existing charger (I think you can use the existing one, but the charging curve must be reprogrammed) and you cannot connect multiple batteries...
If you drive the Sector E1 in difficult terrain up large hills and back to recover (the recovery will be large) you may encounter errors that have been reported here on the forum (uphill performance will be limited and the recovery from a large hill will be large and this battery will not handle it and there will be a limitation until the recovery or the vehicle stops).
The Sector E1 has larger parameters than this battery and will not be used to its maximum with this battery.
It would be ideal to try this battery in advance or see someone at Sector E1 and see if it will suit you.

[Gorj]

One has to remember that removing the 520 pounds of the lead acid batteries and replacing them with the 100 or so pounds of lithium batteries removes a lot of weight from the E1 and thus giving it more power! One of the reasons the E1 needs to have those high watt batteries is to just help move the weight of the batteries. Without that weight one does not need as many watts. My E1 with the lithium batteries will go faster and climb hills better than the lead acid batteries ever did.

[GNFO]

As LAMA said, you would be leaving some performance on the table since the maximum continuous output current is 200A. Plus you cannot install more than one of these in parallel since they have not built in any ability for the BMS to communicate with other battery BMS' to prevent charge and load imbalances. It can hit 400A output for 35 sec. supposedly, which is longer than I've seen for these time-limited outputs, but your use case will determine what is acceptable to you. The E1 motor is capable of 400A, so personally that is why I made sure the continuous output of my batteries in parallel were capable of matching that. I know others have been happy with combinations that (on paper anyway) add up to less than that, so it's up to you what you want to accept, which admittedly also translates to cost. I regularly go up bumpy, rock-filled slopes hauling a full bed of firewood and even sometimes pulling a trailer, so I wanted to be sure and maximize the motor's capability. 

Contrary to what LAMA said, I don't think the regen would be a problem since that battery can accept up to 200A in charging, and the E1 only generates a max of 100A on regen (usually not even that). BuggyBoy's particular case is a bit unique since he starts out on the top of a hill and if the batteries are already at 100%, any BMS is going to limit that. EV cars are better integrated with their batteries and smart enough to not do regen when the batteries are full, but the Hisun isn't that smart.

I agree that there probably is a charger profile for the onboard Delta-Q that would work, it's just that Vevor is trying to limit their liability since they aren't accounting for a regular golf cart lead battery charger being able to change it's charging profile like the Delta-Q can.

[Gorj]

Like so often in these forums folks speculate without actually having real world experience!

[thom0329]

16 hours ago, Gorj said:

That battery should work, but you might consider Humsienk's 4-12 volt battery pack at less than $500 from TEMU. They have a five year warranty and are expected to last ten years. Also by going the four 12 route, if you have a failure in one you only have to replace one, but if the 48 volt battery fails, you have a greater expense to replace it. Plus, the four batteries are much easier to install. I have had the Humsienk batteries in my E1 for several months and their performance is awesome. When you go with the lithium battery remember to reprogram your charger for lithium batteries.  Good luck.

With the Humsienk batteries the maximum continuous discharge is listed as 100A. With 4 in series the output would be a maximum of 400A continuous?

[GNFO]

48 minutes ago, thom0329 said:

With the Humsienk batteries the maximum continuous discharge is listed as 100A. With 4 in series the output would be a maximum of 400A continuous?

Amp output when wired in series doesn't add.  The voltages add to make ~48V but the total capacity and amp output stay the same.

Also, all batteries have a limited time output that can exceed the continuous output spec, but the amount and length is battery-specific.  So this apparently works for Gorj in how he uses it, he isn't paying for capability he doesn't need, and as he mentioned the weight reduction helps. Whether or not that works for you is your choice.

Everyone has their own use case and cost vs capability trades tolerance, along with how much effort they want to put in to modifying their UTV (GC2 form-factor batteries you can just drop in vs whatever tray mods might be needed for a larger form battery), so there isn't necessarily a single solution.

FYI, I might also mention that the original series-wired Discover batteries only ever had a max continuous discharge rate of 100A also, which I had always thought was a limitation. Probably the only reason the E1 could get to 400A output is that the batteries made use of the time-limited capability, but I could never find out what their specifications are for that.

[thom0329]

8 hours ago, LAMA said:

The battery will work if you drive it like a golf cart for which it is designed (flat and small hills). The seller states that you cannot use the existing charger (I think you can use the existing one, but the charging curve must be reprogrammed) and you cannot connect multiple batteries...
If you drive the Sector E1 in difficult terrain up large hills and back to recover (the recovery will be large) you may encounter errors that have been reported here on the forum (uphill performance will be limited and the recovery from a large hill will be large and this battery will not handle it and there will be a limitation until the recovery or the vehicle stops).
The Sector E1 has larger parameters than this battery and will not be used to its maximum with this battery.
It would be ideal to try this battery in advance or see someone at Sector E1 and see if it will suit you.

If I added 2 of these Vevor 48V batteries in parallel then I should get full performance and much improved range. Any thoughts or opinions?

[GNFO]

21 minutes ago, thom0329 said:

If I added 2 of these Vevor 48V batteries in parallel then I should get full performance and much improved range. Any thoughts or opinions?

That would be true in general, but their own website says that these particular batteries cannot be combined.  There is no CANbus or bluetooth BMS communication capability enabled in the design to allow more than one battery to coordinate output and charging. Not having that communication means that over time an imbalance will result between more than one battery due to small differences in manufacturing or how they're wired.  The BMS communication should compensate for that, although some batteries that have only a bluetooth link don't necessarily use it for battery to battery coordination, just to send individual battery information to a display or app.

If achieving 400A continuous is important to you, you will have to wire multiple batteries in parallel to get that. As you might have discovered, there are no "reasonable" single batteries that can put out 400A continuous all on their own. So with multiple batteries, you need to make sure they can communicate with each other. A CANbus connection is probably best as a hardwire solution is foolproof and the connections are as easy as plugging in a cord.

[Gorj]

I agree with GNFO, two batteries connected in parallel would not work unless their BMS could communicate with each other.

[thom0329]

1 hour ago, GNFO said:

That would be true in general, but their own website says that these particular batteries cannot be combined.  There is no CANbus or bluetooth BMS communication capability enabled in the design to allow more than one battery to coordinate output and charging. Not having that communication means that over time an imbalance will result between more than one battery due to small differences in manufacturing or how they're wired.  The BMS communication should compensate for that, although some batteries that have only a bluetooth link don't necessarily use it for battery to battery coordination, just to send individual battery information to a display or app.

If achieving 400A continuous is important to you, you will have to wire multiple batteries in parallel to get that. As you might have discovered, there are no "reasonable" single batteries that can put out 400A continuous all on their own. So with multiple batteries, you need to make sure they can communicate with each other. A CANbus connection is probably best as a hardwire solution is foolproof and the connections are as easy as plugging in a cord.

Thanks again for your time in answering my questions. Sorry to beat a dead horse but in your opinion I could not and should not connect 2 of these 48 Volt batteries to my E1 as it would be dangerous? Or they just won't output the full 400A power? Even the single 200A discharge rate would be fine I feel. Or will they charge incorrectly? Could I use 2 chargers to get around this?

[Gorj]

It is not just the charging. Inside the battery there many small batteries and they are connected to the BMS monitoring outgoing and incoming flow keeping the small batteries stable. Unless the two batteries were designed to communicate with each other then I would only use one. In normal use I think you will find one battery will suit you well. Now if you were planning to doing a run up Pike's Peak or take an extended off road trip without a means of charging you might have a problem. But the lead acid batteries, when new, could not do that either!

[EVSupport]

The batteries could be used in parallel, but will fail. The problem is they are too inadequate in power output, If one string/ battery detects a cell going high under charge or regen it will simply cut out that then pushes the other remaining battery into over load and will shut that down. With both shut down the vehicle is then lacking control or drive. If a cell goes low under load , same thing. There is nothing wrong with having batteries in parallel, the problem is with having them too small and inadequate discharge capability in the first place.

We build Conversions in the UK built around 6 x 30Ah 60v nominal ex OEM cell blocks. Each of these stupidly high quality 30A cell blocks can readily deliver 150+amps,theoretically you could safely pull 900A so they are never stressed in normal use. And thats the ideal situation. Have enough Ah so the pack is never stressed. They are collectively monitored and generally we see cells holding within 0.02v in balance. But this isnt a cheap option. It is however a cheap option to our users who are all land owners or commercial farmers, and are fed up with repeated Discover cell replacements.

Do the conversion cheaply and inadequately reserves on the pack and it will have have big limitations. Its not a cheap alternative in the long run, but probably fine for occasional use. Thats not what we cater for .

[GNFO]

32 minutes ago, thom0329 said:

Thanks again for your time in answering my questions. Sorry to beat a dead horse but in your opinion I could not and should not connect 2 of these 48 Volt batteries to my E1 as it would be dangerous? Or they just won't output the full 400A power? Even the single 200A discharge rate would be fine I feel. Or will they charge incorrectly? Could I use 2 chargers to get around this?

EVSupport and Gorj both answered before I could, so I'll just add this:  If you think you're fine with the 200A max continuous output (and 400A output for 35 sec.) and you're set on this particular battery, just go with one.  You absolutely should not do two.

If you want to ensure you have the full capability of the motor covered, I would suggest looking into a number of other 48V GC2 form factor batteries that are now available.  Based on the link you posted I'm guessing you're in Canada, so availability should be close to what we have in the US.  Look at the max continuous output and Ah capacity and know that when you wire them in parallel, you can add those numbers to get the performance of the full pack. And of course there has to be some way for the battery BMSs to work together (I recommend ones that have a CANbus connection).

It will probably cost more than the single battery you're looking at, but that's just what it takes for the full performance if you don't want any potential limitations.  Prices and choices are much better than when I did my conversion almost 3 years ago. Still beats spending $30K for a Polaris Ranger EV UTV, and any choice is better than the Discover batteries.

[GNFO]

One last thing to consider.  If you go with the one battery you're looking at, that's it.  You can't choose to add another one if you find you want more capability.

When I went with my four ReLion batteries (48V, 100A continuous output, 30Ah capacity) I knew the combined 400A continuous output would be fine, but wasn't sure if I would be happy with a total of 120Ah of capacity.  I knew that if I wanted to, I could just add up to four more batteries if I needed the range.  Turns out I'm just fine with 120Ah for the way I use it, but the flexibility was there.  You won't have the option to change your mind if you go with that particular Vevor model.

[EVSupport]

Why cant you add more? Is there some issue with these specific batteries?

 

[EVSupport]

https://www.facebook.com/EVSupportUK

This shows some of the stuff we work on, and there are some shots of the Hisun conversion and the Ranger (Hisun 160Ah  900A discharge capabilty Ranger 240Ah 1200A capability) Both versions are limited by the Sevcon Fuse at 450A on the hisun which also has a 500A fuse set on the pack.

We have now sourced parts for the Shock bush replacement including new Stainless steel spacers. But I cant ship to the USA because of your Tariffs, like the Hisun and Polaris  there is a high % of Chinese parts.

To keep costs realistic we had to get the machined stainless parts done in China, 1/4 the cost of someone in the UK and 1/8 of getting them machined locally.

 

[thom0329]

1 hour ago, EVSupport said:

The problem is they are too inadequate in power output

Thanks EVSupport. I don't understand how these are inadequate in power output. They have more output than almost any battery I've looked at. The only problem seems to be the lack of Battery Management.

[GNFO]

17 minutes ago, EVSupport said:

Why cant you add more? Is there some issue with these specific batteries?

 

The one he has a link to doesn't have any means to interconnect the BMSs from multiple batteries for smart load balancing.  Their own FAQs say not to connect multiple batteries together because they will become unbalanced.

[GNFO]

10 minutes ago, thom0329 said:

Thanks EVSupport. I don't understand how these are inadequate in power output. They have more output than almost any battery I've looked at. The only problem seems to be the lack of Battery Management.

I believe he means in order to accommodate the maximum possible demand the Sevcon might try to pull. Probably made more of an issue if that draw beyond the capability of the batteries is combined with a bank of more than one battery and the draw could possibly become uneven across the set.  A good interconnected BMS should even that out some.

Regarding the output of the particular battery you listed, 200A is indeed about the max for a single battery one can easily find, but that doesn't meet the possible maximum draw the Hisun motor can take, which is more powerful than the golf cart motors that battery was meant to supply.  That's why a parallel bank of batteries is needed to collectively provide the total amps that just one battery can't.

[EVSupport]

36 minutes ago, GNFO said:

The one he has a link to doesn't have any means to interconnect the BMSs from multiple batteries for smart load balancing.  Their own FAQs say not to connect multiple batteries together because they will become unbalanced.

If you have a serial string its important that the BMS works across the whole string. If you connect parallel then they will work fine. If one pack has a cell thats high it will get bled down , that would pull the whole battery voltage down, but it would then be maintained by the parallel batteries, so they would also go down to the same level. Even without any bleed / balance connection between parallel strings. That cannot happen in serial strings and should not be done at any cost.

[GNFO]

Less likely, but from what I've seen it's still possible. At any rate, given that the manufacturer themselves say not to, wiring two of those particular batteries would almost certainly invalidate the warranty.