Hi everyone, I just purchased the UTV yesterday. drove it off trailer and about 1/2 mile no issues, temp gauge never moved.
later i checked the oil level and filled the gas. I let it warm up for a bit and the check engine light came on.
The owners manual does not mention the check engine light at all.
The closest repair shop is 1.5 hrs
Can anyone help me with reading / resetting the code and see if it happens again?
Thanks in advance
I have had a battery failure with one of my batteries, maybe another coming soon and have decided to change all 8 out to US Battery XC1800's. Just to make sure I have the correct connections, can anyone post a few pictures of the battery connections and email me a copy?
Just an FYI, the Dual Pro Eagle Performance onboard charger quit. I am not sure, at this point, whether it is the charger that has failed, or the bad battery causing a low voltage failure. This low voltage will cause the charger not to start, even though it may be still working. (2020 models and above have a different charger). The charger is back with DualPro awaiting a dignosis. If you need to remove the charger, to send back to DualPro, you will need to remove the electrical input port on the passenger side, and the output to the batteries. Then, remove a good number of black zip ties to free both cords. The charger itself is held on by 6 machine screws, 3 on each side of the brackets. Be careful, the charger weighs 27 lbs! The whole unit, including the cords needs to be sent back. The connections are soldered inside the charger and cannot be disconnected.
Graham ([email protected])
2018 Polaris RZR XP Turbo S Brand New Stage 1 Motor On Ebay
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!