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Does anyone have experience with truck bed racks for transporting their Pioneers? Either flat or over the cab?

Thank you very much for the suggestions and the service manual. I’ll report back in a few days on the results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i recently bought a kubota rtv 520, driven it twice, it's been sitting for a while and now won't start. i didn't know about the "cold" start. i'll give it a go and i'm not impressed either.

Inspect your engine closely, if it's a spin on you should be able to find it. It will probably be in a tight spot and may be difficult to locate at first. If it's anything like my Outfitter 550, you'll want to get a replacement filter with a nut molded on top so next time you can remove it easier next time. From ChatGPT: The Hisun Axis 550 UTV utilizes the HiSun 503-01156 oil filter. This filter is compatible with various Hisun UTV and ATV models, including the Axis 500, 700, and 750, as well as models from Massimo, Coleman, Cub Cadet, Bennche, and others. Hisun Parts Central+8Walmart.com+84atvparts.com+8 Recommended Oil Filters for the Hisun Axis 550 Here are some suitable oil filter options: Budget-Friendly HiFlo Premium Spin-On Oil Filter (HF303) Price not available Go to merchant High-Quality Replacement Chikia Oil Filter Replacement for Hisun UTV/ATV Price not available Go to merchant Value Pack SUONE 2-Pack Oil Filter for Hisun UTV/ATV Price not available Go to merchant The Hisun Axis 550 UTV utilizes the HiSun 503-01156 oil filter. This filter is compatible with various Hisun UTV and ATV models, including the Axis 500, 700, and 750, as well as models from Massimo, Coleman, Cub Cadet, Bennche, and others ChatGPT chooses products independently. Learn more

On most of the engines I've repaired on Hisun there are marks on timing gear that should be parallel to the head when piston is at top dead center. At the same time, you can remove cover and look at crank. See if key is sheared, look at marks on crank to see if they are lined up. The case should also have a port to view timing marks on flywheel. Also, there should be a port so you can access the crank to turn it with a wrench. (So ya don't need to remove cover) Im not sure how your 700 is set up, but, generally speaking these engines are pretty basic and simple. These are steps if you don't have a timing light.

Go to manualslib and download service manual. I posted it, but, it must be approved by administrator. Read how to perform timing procedure.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Hisun-Hs700utv-3975571.html

Do you have a service manual? The spark has to happen at the correct time. Assuming all of your previous troubleshooting steps are correct......Your timing is certainly an important consideration. If an engine has fuel, spark, and compression, it should run unless the spark timing is off. Generally speaking, when you sprayed starter fluid and the result was popping, the engine was telling you there is a timing issue. Especially if the popping was coming from the intake.

Not really sure how I’d check timing on this vehicle. But with the spark tester I see spark as I’m turning the ignition. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, so we have fuel, spark, and compression. Next, is it sparking at the proper time? Check timing. Post results

Yes. 100% it has spark Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does it have spark?

Compression is good It’ll make a popping sound with starter fluid into the injector port but doesn’t turn over. There’s no oil in gas or vice versa and no oil in water. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is another choice https://woodlandmills.com/multilander-trailer/

It's hard to find a true off-road terrain trailer with a 2,500lb capacity. This one might work. https://countryatv.com/7740utv.html

Anyone else having issues with the clutch squeeling when starting off??? Jurky and screatchs when first starting!!! They are supposed to be working on a fix, BUT WHEN??????

Hey everyone. I am trying to find information and ideas on a cargo trailer a UTV can tow. The UTV max towing is 2500 pounds. I need a enclosed trailer that can carry supplies over off-road terrain. It can also be a open trailer. I don't need it to have any special options on it. Just light weight and the ability to carry up to 2500lbs.

got a 2019 articat prowler, it will only rev to 3800 rpms then says limited rpms . have switched gauge cluster with another machine. it worked fine in other machine but the other machines cluster and ecm did the same limited rpms.

That's a huge ring gap..maybe the rings are so soft they wore quickly? Or they were installed without checking which I would not be surprised by either. Hopefully with your proper assembly, it will run fine

The QC on any new vehicle all depends on how thorough the inspectors/installers were on a given day. That's why I make it a point to inspect all new vehicles for this exact reason. You shouldn't have to but reality says otherwise.

Update to my original post: 2018 Massimo MSU 700 burning oil. I disassembled the top end of this HISUN based 686cc motor over the weekend. The cylinder head was unremarkable other than the combustion chamber was completely involved with a heavy black soot deposit. That was to be expected as the unit was burning oil. The piston top was dark brown but again to be expected. I actually expected to find a stuck ring as I removed the cylinder. This was not the case but I have to consideer that a ring could be siezed while in position in the piston ring groove but may immediately "free-up" upon extraction from the cylinder. The cylinder walls while shiny were not scored. There was no detectable (fingernail test) ridge at the top of the cylinder. Of course there was no trace of any original honing crosshatch as the engine has about 350hrs on it. At that point I had not discovered an obvious causal factor for the excessive oil burning. An interesting observation is that neither the top compression ring or the second ring had any identifying marks on them to: 1. Identify which was which and 2. Denote the top of the rings. I am the original owner and know that this engine is as "factory delivered" -- no intermediate ring replacement has occurred -- factory install. The piston skirts did not indicate unreasonable wear ( I have not measured the piston yet). Today I received the top end rebuild kit. As I began the process of measuring the new components I decided to evaluate the existing ring gaps from the smoking unit. Here is what I found: Top (compression) Ring Gap: .051 inch. Second Ring Gap: .125 inch (That is not a typo: .125 inch). At that point I did not evaluate the Third (oil control ring rails) for gap. I am at a loss as to how to explain these numbers. If this were attributed to ring wear I would have thought the cylinder walls would have at least indcated more wear and there would have been at least some discernible ridge. I will measure the piston itself tomorrow. My thought is that if this is indeed ring wear that the piston measurements will reflect significant wear as well. Of course the other possibility is that this is manufacturing/assembly failure and the unit was delivered in this condition. What is strange about that theory is that the unit began smoking excessively only recently and the condition onset was rapid. I have maintained the air filtration system responsibly and prior to disassembly I inspected the filter/the intake ducting to throttle body/the throttle body itself/the intake manifold runners and the intake chambers in the head. No sign of contamination. At this point all I will reassemble with new cylinder/piston and rings. I will check/set end gaps to FSM specs. Additionally I will install new valve stem seals even though the originals appear to be fine. I would appreciate any and all opinons/observations/conspiracy theories etc that may help explain these strange findings. Thank you, Chile

What is your filter? That should tell you.

I get my ATV and UTV filters on Amazon.

Does it fire on starting fluid? Checked compression?

I had a similar issue with my Axis 500. After replacing the shifting fan gears which suffered from the common corrosion issue that ate up the gears, I still could not adjust the shift linkage to cover all the gears reliably. If I adjusted the linkage to reliably shift into reverse, I could not get into first either reliably or at all. If I adjusted the linkage to go into first, I lost Reverse. I also noted that when I went from Reverse to Neutral, the dash indicator would not show the "N" unless I moved the shifter towards Hi and then came back to neutral. That kind of indicator issue was common no matter how I adjusted things. I also noted that the bolt that holds the shifter linkage onto the engine end of the shifter shaft kept coming loose. I disassembled the fan gear cover and even realigned the fan gears but still had the same issues. I decided to take a closer look at how the shifter was working. When I watched the location where the linkage connected to the fan gear shaft, I saw what is in the photo. The metal on the linkage arm had egg-shaped the mating slot so there was a large amount of backlash in the shifter movement before the fan gear shaft started changing gears. Being cheap, I decided to use JB Weld to run a small bead arouhd the linkage arm hole and slide it gently onto the shaft being careful to not get any epoxy into the bolt hole. When I then slid the bolt into the hole with the required lock washer and flat washer, the flat washer squeezed the epoxy along the face; effectively gluing the flat washer to the shifter arm. This means I can still remove the washer if I have to, but the flat washer will not allow the shifter arm to rotate as I shift. The epoxy fills the excess space between the shaft and arm, so there is no longer any backlash on the arm and the bolt no longer looses over a few shifts. The result is a fully adjustable linkage with no excess backlash. It now shifts reliably into all gears and the indicator link matches the transmission position. A much more expensive solution is to buy an entire new gearshift assembly from the shifter to the end of the linkage arm. Several sources such as Hisun, Ebay, Amazon, etc sell this assembly kit for prices starting at around $50. There is a source that will sell the transmission end of the turnbuckle unit alone, but that will set you back about $25 plus shipping. I hope this info is useful and saves you lots of time and money.