Leaderboard

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

Greg, no disrespect intended for sure. Exactly how do you think I figured out how the compression tester's valve works? The first one I had was used and with no instructions. Thought it was broken. Went to put it away and hit that little brass button hidden under the neck of the gauge, and "PSSST ..." the gauge returned to zero!🤔 Don't be so hard on yourself, you're doing just fine!. We've all been there and worse,.....in my case, a LOT worse. Plenty of scars and a couple bits of missing flesh to show for it. Guess I should be thankful to have survived 7 decades! Wouldn't trade any of it including those most embarrassing moments for a million bucks. You're doing better than most, keep at it, success awaits only those who keep on keepin' on.

Alien10, Dude, I'm not blonde, but I never, never. Never thought or realized THERE IS NO WAY on GODS GREEN EARTH a cylinder would keep the pressure. My my my, I should hang up my tools, and just take up knitting. Any leaking has to come from the Schrader valves in the compression tester hose. I'm just doing a leak down test on the hose connection and hardware. Alien10, thanks for explaining this. Making me realize what I was doing wasn't what I thought I was doing. Man, do I feel dumb. Some people shouldn't own tools. LOL guess I'm one. I'm a little (lot) embarrassed. But maybe others will learn from my mistake. I'm still going to jack this beast up in the air and try the bleeding thing again.

Good luck..hope it's cured

Thank You

Thanks, Alien10, I need all the luck and confidence I can get. I'll get it one way or another. Well a bit more confused now. I'll list what happened in order. 1. Opened the bleed screw on goose neck on top of cylinder. No antifreeze came out. Couldn't see antifreeze in hole. Screwed bleeder back on. 2. Opened radiator cap. Coolant was a little low. Topped it off. Left cap off. 3. Opened the bleed screw and left off until antifreeze came out. 4. Topped off radiator with coolant and put cap back on. 5. Made sure both of the ball valves were on. So coolant had a least resistance path through the engine. 6. Started engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. No smoke came out of muffler. Did have some "air" come out the hose that broke off the air oil separator. 7. Removed spark plug, disconnected the coil and fuel pump. Installed the compression tester. Held gas pedal to the floor cranked the engine. Got 130psi. (Didn't do the pedal thing during the 1st testing). Lite a cigarette and started the stop watch on the phone. Listened and felt for air at muffler and air oil separator hose. Nothing. Raised the front of UTV about 6 inches. Removed radiator cap. There was a little pressure. But didn't see any bubbles. I drained the overflow jug back down to full mark. 8. So 12 minutes has passed. Compression gauge is reading 125psi. 9. After 16 minutes, compression gauge is still 125psi. I bumped the engine in case the piston is in some way sealing the gasket that I think is compromised. 10. Watching the radiator, still no bubbles, after 20 minutes. Compression gauge is still at 125psi. Can't hear of feel any air at muffler or crank case hose. I release pressure on gauge. Hold gas WOT and crank engine. Compression gauge goes up to 125psi. Battery is weak. Drops to 10.5 while cranking and only 12.1 after. 11. After 30 minutes the compression gauge still at 125psi. Couldn't hear or feel or see air escaping anywhere. Radiator still topped off. No bubbles. Opened the bleed screw. Had coolant weeping around threads. 12. So now 40 minutes has passed from cranking the compression tester the 1st time today. Gauge still at 125psi. No bubbles, or anything. 13. I release pressure from gauge. Removed gauge. Install spark plug. Reconnect coil and fuel pump. Left machine in air. Started machine. 14. Let it run to get operating temp up. Variating the RPM from idle to 5k. Did get some blue smoke, but not a lot. Did have steady blow-by out the crank case hose, even with high RPM. Didn't see any bubbles in radiator. Put cap back on cause coolant started rising when engine temp started to rise. Didn't see any bubbles rising in the overflow jug. Loosen the bleed screw and no air came out. It just weeping coolant. Raised temp to about 150°. Still no bubbles in overflow tank. 15. Turned machine off. Left front end up in air. Will check everything again tomorrow, Sunday or Monday. At this point looks like there was/still some air in the coolant system. As motojoe, Alien10, and Joe Breaux has said all along. But I'm not 100% sure if head gasket is blown or just had air bubble. I'm going to raise the front some more. Then do the same testing and see what happens. As the great Sweat-Hog, Vinnie Barbarino, once said, "I'm so confused." I feel better now. 😂

if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014. First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less. Red Flags: Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it. Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!! I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point? Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.