T-boss 410

Hey now, that ain't right 🥴

Looks to me like they waited a bit too long to correct their mistake. I'll enjoy watching all these woke companies go down.

Maybe some of these other woke companies will learn from Budweiser's mistakes.

Sounds good to me.

From what I have heard, Budweiser is taking it on the chin for that decision. Sucks to be them.

Thank you, sir.

I have no idea what a reliable octane booster is. I played around with boosters like 104+ when I was younger, but I never really felt a difference.

It wasn't a Bud Lite, was it?

My 2011 Ram has a 10.5:1 cr, and I run 87 octane regularly. But, it's got knock sensors which change the timing to alleviate the noise. I don't believe that the Massimo is equipped with knock sensors.

🤔🤔🤔

Just remember that, young man 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah, I don't have that issue. Gotta be some sort of setting.

OK, I see your point. But, in defense of Massimo (and because I own one 🤣), mine came with the same accessories minus the power steering. But I am glad that you are happy with the CF Moto.

Isn't a CF Moto a Chinese machine? I had Chinese made UTV years ago (lost it in the divorce) that had a CF Moto engine. This was a much smaller UTV, but it was impressive. I believe it was a BMS. That thing carried me and my brother in law up some really steep hills during deer season, and through some really wet stuff. Had a hydraulic dump bed, too. It was carbureted, with a manual choke. That was the only thing I didn't like about it. It came from Texas like the Massimo did. I don't see them anymore.

Will do, thanks 👍

That'll teach you to go away for so long 😉. Really, I have no idea. Maybe pickup up some sponsors? How ya been?

Well thank you much, sir. It's greatly appreciated 👍

OK, thanks. Now I have another question. Every video and wiring diagram I have seen says to install a 30 amp fuse in the wire from the + side of the solenoid to the relay. Not sure why, and it's not explained. However, this has been on riding mowers. Does that make a difference? Thanks 😊

Thank you, sir. I will check them out. How do I know what the amp rating should be? I know the solenoid has a 30 amp fuse. Is this what I need to look for?

Thanks. I guess what I have been trying to ask is, are there any particular brands of switches that are better manufactured so as to know that the switch purchased is a good functioning switch? I've not had to replace ignition switches much in the past, except for riding lawn mowers.

Oh OK. I gotcha now. I'm just curious if there's a reliable switch to be had out there,

Why would I have to solder in an OEM switch? I shouldn't have to cut any wiring. There should be a plug on the harness attached to the switch. At least the pictures I have seen of the OEM has a length of wiring with a yellow plug at the end. Are we talking about the same thing? Now I'm confused 🤔

Thank you, sir. My real concern is replacing the switch with another OEM switch. I don't know if the problem is just normal wear and tear, or a design flaw that hasn't been addressed by the factory. So is the bezel on the switch part of what holds the switch to the panel?

Thank you, sir. I have already downloaded it. I wish it would give some details on how to remove the ignition switch. It talks about removing the switch for testing purposes, but it doesn't advise if there's any special tools to be used. For instance, the bezel that surrounds the switch has 4 holes in the outer edge. Does this require a spanner wrench of some sort to remove it? I just don't want to damage anything more than is needed, especially since parts are becoming more difficult to locate, which I blame on the supply chain issues.

Thanks for the response. I don't mind changing out the ignition switch, but I don't want to replace it with another bad one. I don't know if it's a manufacturing flaw that will be present in every switch, which is why I wanted to install an aftermarket switch that I knew was good. I've located a source for an OEM switch, but I'm hesitant to buy what might be the same issue.