Greg Kilgore

Download the shop manual. Check the wiring schematic. Start tracing wires and checking the connectors in them.

As Joe asked, if it's just a recent development, could be a valve lashing issue.

Well as usual, my numbers were wrong. LOL I forgot to mention in last post, the relay for light bar has a fuse before it connects to the battery. Got to protect circuits. Sxs sat for a week. Started after fuel pump kicked off. Reading 13.9 volts. With low beams 13 volts at idle. With high beams(includes light bar.) 12.4 volts at idle. With high beams and 3200 rpm traveling. 13.3 volts. When temp got up to 174° and fan kicked on, with high beams, and 3200ish rpm traveling. 12.3 volts I've been thinking about contacting the motorcycle doctor and inquiring about the high output voltage regulator he has on his website. But don't know if I'd have to upgrade the stator. Been thinking adding a 2nd battery. Deep cycle or deep cycle starting battery under drivers seat. But currently using that area for storage for jackets, tools, and the all important TP if we have to hit the bushes. I also have a fan strapped to the top of roll cage. Pointing down into the cab. During hot rides can turn on and cool down. I don't run it on night rides. Cause the light bar, cab fan, and radiator fan would draw way too many amps if all on at same time. I need to change the incandescent factory headlights to LED headlights. That would help save some amps on night rides. Also want to install a stereo so upgrading the charging system is definitely going to have to happen.

I've got light bar on my Axis 500. Wired it on a relay. The main hot for relay of course goes to battery. The activate wire for relay goes to high beam of headlights. That way I don't blind on coming traffic. Just hit the low beam and light bar is off. High beam light bar is on. It's a Nilight 13" (I think) bar. Came with 2 4" lights also. But haven't got them installed. As far as voltage goes. The voltage stays good 13.7-14 running down the road. Does drop to 12ish at idle. We ( wife and I) are fixing to take a ride right now and I'll double check my numbers.

Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing. Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield. Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?

Could try this. Simple and easy to do. Make sure the battery has a good charge. Since you've been trying to start with no luck. I'd charge overnight with a 2 amp trickle charger. Then. Reset the ECU. Easy to do. At times, my machine is hard to start and I have to hold down the throttle a little to get started. I reset the ECU and I'm good for 1-3 months. With the machine off. 1. Turn machine on but don't try to start. Just so the fuel pump kicks on. Leave key on until fuel pump builds up pressure and kicks off. 2. Cycle the key off and on 5 times within 30 seconds. Make sure the fuel pumps runs each time. 3. After the 5th time in on position. Turn back off and wait 30-60 seconds. 4. Turn key on. Wait for fuel pump to kick off. Try and start machine.

Is this the same fuse going to ECU and fuel pump? If you have checked and found nothing bare or touching. It could be a fuel pump going bad or a bad ground. Causing the pump to pull more amps to try and make the circuit. I don't know the steps to test. But YouTube or a Google search should show how to test amp draw on a circuit. Best of luck

When I made the post you quoted, it had to be approved. Maybe the link? Maybe setup if a link in posted the Admin has to make sure it's not an outside post? IDK Was it detergent oil? But that oil froth is interesting. Good to know.

Well that is what I thought as well, overfilling was a bad thing. But they sell those extension tubes. To allow more oil to be added to the crank case. I've even heard of them being installed on brand-r-new machines straight from the dealer. These guys are talking about the added oil and extension tube.

Right, but figured it wasn't completely airlocked. Thought there may have been some coolant circulation. I know on the Axis 500 (different I know) there is a sending unit in the radiator. That the only one I know of. And coot said the radiator fan kicked on. So there should have been some circulation. But maybe not.

Cootupnorth, Need to start your on thread. Don't highjack somebody else's. With that said. I'd get a infrared thermal readers and see what it reads. Could just be a bad sensor. I put a digital temp gauge on Axis 500. They make a sleeve of a thing that can go online with the radiator hose. It has an opening to insert a sending unit. Can then install a digital or manual temp gauge and not have to rely on trying to determine what a bar graph might be trying to tell you. And you can leave the OEM sender in place for the computer to do its thing. And if needed replace the OEM sender with a new one if it's bad. Brent4a, Just keep bleeding with the radiator/front end jacked up as best ya can. Hope you don't have to replace head gasket again either. Good luck.

Like chase said I don't know, not familiar with those either. But if it has an internal wet oil bathed clutch. Be sure you use a oil designed for motor cycle or atu/UTV clutches. As far as oil weight. Should be able to find that info in the owners manual. Or maybe use 10w30 or 10w40. The 1st number, 10 means both oil weights are the same thickness in cold temps. The 2nd number 30 or 40 is the thickness when they get hot. And the 40 is thicker than the 30. I made the mistake and put 10w30 in my blazer and it knocked for about 5 minutes until the engine warmed up. Immediately drained and put the recommended 5w30 in and had no trouble. 5 is thinner than 10 cold and I guess the tolerances were too tight for the 10w30 when engine was cold. Kept that blazer for another 10 or so years after that. Some people say don't use synthetic oil with wet clutches some say it's fine. Personally I won't use synthetic oil in anything. But to each his own I guess. But if it is an oil bathed clutch it will definitely need oil formulated for wet clutches. And welcome to the site.

Have you watched the driveshaft when this is happening. I have an Axis 500. And had the splines on the drive shaft bad and the cup on engine bad. Replaced both and have been great for almost a year. If not the drive shaft/cup, then I going to guess it is something inside the rear differential. As far as the video goes. It would be better to upload to YouTube. Set it to anyone with a link and post a link to it. I had to download and play with VLC to watch. Were you on a hard pull, level or going uphill when it 1st happen?

My 500 Axis about 2 years old and about 3200 miles. Have to check the hours. Have lived 90% of its miles on blacktop and gravel/hard pack roads. Not a lot of trails. Wife don't like them but I do. On blacktop I can hit 45 mph on level ground and about 4700 RPM on regular basis. Slight downhill grade have hit 50mph 5100 rpm. Low gear I've hit 35ish on blacktop 6700 rpm. Still on the 1st belt though it probably needs changed. Got a new one just haven't changed it. And could probably do a valve adjustment. Just haven't took the time. I did have to change the cup and rear drive shaft last November (I think).That was a pain. Had to bleed all 4 brakes last month. Need 4 tires but the Axis is still going good. I made a bottom plate. So I could put seats from a RZR in it. And made the driver side seat adjustable sliding front to back for wife's short legs. Added 4 points harness. Added temp and voltage gauges. Got an oil pressure gauge just haven't installed yet. Mac66, glad you were able to enjoy your machine out with the big boys. I started with the cheap muffs also. Then put a 3ft piece of 3/4 inch flex metal conduit on the end of muffler. That helped a little. Had to remove the exhaust in pieces from engine when I did the rear axle. When I put it back on it seemed quieter. Maybe when I put it back together I tightened up the bolts better. IDK. I've got plans to move the air intake from between the seats to under the hood. Using thin wall plastic conduit. (Like on newer rhinos). After that I plan on adding sound deading inside engine compartment and under the seats. I'll make a post when that is done. But sounds like you have a good one. Hope you enjoy it for a good long time. Just make sure you keep an eye on the oil. I also add about 1qt past full and it helps quiet the engine also.

I resemble that remark. 😂 😂

Ya know, for someone that came here looking for help and information on how to repair their machine and locate parts. THEN spit in the face of people trying to help. Isn't a very friendly thing to do. I couldn't give 2 shits if you fix this POS now. Sincerely An Eastern Kentucky HILLBILLY.

Glad you found the bolts/studs/information you need. May want to share the diameter and thread pitch with the rest of the community. In case someone else needs the info. Stainless is fun to drill. Personally, I wouldn't call Ace a good hardware store.

A BFH will fix it or fix it where it will never give you a problem again.

Make sure the one-way bearing is installed correctly.

Shouldn't double post. Take bolt to a good hardware store. Use the nut/bolt thread guild they usually have. Match up the bolt. Don't try and force it in the tool. Maybe www. Motor Cycle doctor .com may be able to help.

Yep, I'm looking.

Cool. Glad you figured it out. Could take battery to AZ. Have them charge and do a load test on the battery. Could be the start of a starter dragging. And the extra cranking amps of the bigger car battery compensated for it. Just for an extra peace of mind. Or just could have been a bad battery.

Since the linkage seems to be good. As T Fox asked, what is the RPM when trying to shift into gear while running. High RPM could be an issue. And at high RPM the clutch would be trying to engage/engaged also. Putting pressure on the shaft attached to the primary sheave. Trying to move the CVT belt. Making the secondary sheave engage. And the secondary sheave is attached to the shaft that turns gears in the transmission. And the clutch is in an oil bath also.

Check fuses they're in the battery compartment. Could also be the key switch.

I know her. 😂