Kinarfi

Are the head 10mm and shallow? Regular bolt heads won't clear, search for McMaster and follow them, I did a right up on what you need and how to grind the heads down to clear, Red lock tite is good, but yellow is a better. Find the post that says to use shanked bolts and there are instructions in there too. good luck. Jeff 96144A227•

Not absolutely sure of what you said, but the turn to the right and rotate the hub is a CHECK to see if it is binding, if it is binding badly, you can't turn the hub and if you were driving, it would be felt in the steering wheel and probably damage the CV, If it's binding at all, you'll feel it as you turn the hub, --THIS A TEST-- But if it does need adjusting & mine did, that's how I did mine, another point not mentioned, IMO, you need to see that the flat, long, thick nut is tight against the yoke end and IMO, square with the shaft so that is has maximum interface contact with housing. it is the end of travel STOP. I went so far as to file mine to get an extra 1/10 of a turn. It also is what keeps the boot out there close to the yoke.

Here's how I do mine, take a look at the photos in the following link.While your doing this, be sure to turn the wheels all the way to the right and then rotate the right hub to see if you can feel the CV binding and then turn it to the left and check that hub. The way the differential and CVs are set up they will only bind on the side you are turning to. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t21coskqi8ii71t/rp6BbnXMuc

I put 200 # springs up front, to stiff for my liking, took all the preload out and put more rebound dampening in them.

Read all the pinned threads, they are pinned for a good reason.

it's in the pinned part pieces and info thread Trooper T2 weights, 380lb. on each front wheel, 480 lb. on left rear, 520 on right rear TOTAL = 1760 pounds

yes, I already have a "cruise control" on mine, what it is is just a dial up the speed of the engine that drops out when I step on the brake unless I have the over ride button on. It also has circuitry in it so that if the spreed drops off or increases, it compensates. It uses an R/C servo for power to pull the throttle in. Brakes, haven't given that much thought, but i suppose it's possible using a linear actuator that just pushes or pulls on the brake pedal.

With that type of steering wheel, its easy to move the horn button to the center of the steering wheel, with a few other wiring changes, interested? If I remember right, I used some kind of a domed washer or piece of metal with a piece for foam under it and the wire soldered to it under the fabric in the middle. When you push the fabric, the the washer contacts the metal to complete the circuit to ground.

http://www.jmcmotors.us/manuals/TR1100-T2-T4_manual2009.pdf

Please take some photos & post

Shop Vac hose works good for moving the air filter up to where ever you want it. And watch out for the splines match with super atv's power steering unit and Joyner's steering U joints, if you decide to try and make one out of two, as I did, post it and I'll take a few more photos and add some commentary. http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2858-let-this-be-a-lesson/?p=16364

Thank you. this post will be referenced to in a couple of the sticky posts

Have you read any of the posts about how to fix the steep down hill problem, easiest is to add a surge tank. Or did they move the pump to inside the tank?

went to jmc.com and looked up the 2wd-4wd controller, definitely different than my set up. FYI, it's on the last page under electrical parts. PS, don't throw the dead unit away, I would like to do an autopsy on it, see if it's something I can fix.

Beeping? you must have something different than I do, mine has a motor that drives a gear the pushes a pin and when it reaches the end, it's supposed to stop. the electronic inside don't like water and the box doesn't seem to seal well and leaks which destroys the insides.

assuming Renli has the same front end as a trooper,here's a few possibilities 1 could be a bad switch or connection not supplying power. do you hear the motor in the box run for a second or 2 every time you switch it? 2 the black box that's bolted to your front diff has water in it, remove it, stick a nail or something in the hole and activate, see if it moves in and out, open it up and inspect. report finding, how much water have you been in? 3 the teeth of the gear that slides over the other gears to lock in the front may be worn and have a burr on then on them, you may have to open up the diff. do 1 & 2 and let us know what you find, photos help. May I suggest you fill out the profile so we can get to know you better, maybe there's some one just a block or two away that would want to help you.

A little tid bit about the snorkel, I just looked at Bruhaw's picture of his snorkel and it is very similar to what I did early on. With it in that position, you will definitely hear the breathing of the intake, but after a while, it becomes noise. I inherited a K&N air filter and SILENCER from my son's racing days and it sure made a difference of being able to drive and talk to and hear my passenger. Here's a link to see it on my Trooper, http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/984-20121117-140408/ . I'll have a better one later, this one is a photo of my light bar. This may be where the silencer came from, a Ford http://www.expeditionforum.com/attachments/f44/6524d1368990087-air-intake-silencer-delete-$0-00-how-1st-gen-00-4-6l-wp_000348.jpg

Nice horn, is an "aah ooooga" horn

Why remove the cat, does it do any thing for you, I have 16,200KM on mine and still running the cat, you have O2 before and after and the computer uses them both and it seems some have had problems when they got rid of one. I may be wrong and everyone is invited to add comments to this. I agree with the snorkel and a good air filter, just watch how much dust settles on the engine, get the air filter up into some clean air, I had to do a re ring 6800km. Power steering and a winch, that would be two of my first add ons. Also a good GPS and depending on your health and fitness, a global tracker and messenger like the http://delorme.com/ or http://findmespot.com might be in line. Welcome to forum Kinarfi

I have over 16000Km on mine and still have the original, but I would say go stiffer on the springs, there have been times when I dumped the clutch with high revs and it didn't even pull the engine down, I think it should have, am I wrong?

Update on this procedure, I have been messing around with a different driver for the steering motor of my own own design and using an old SuperATV and it's position sensor which I modified after damaging the original sensor and a larger motor that has a gear reduction unit on it so I have a lot more power to turn the wheels, hopefully enough to turn and hold the wheels while in 4X4 with lockers. While setting up and testing, I ran the unit to the stops for setting max current and in the process, I popped one of the bearing caps off, too much torque I guess. When I get the bearing cap back on, I plan drill and a hole right next to the bearng and put a screw in to hold it in place, like this one shown below. If you did this for your u joint, you may want to do a preemptive fix.

Mine has most of the drive line covers off so I'll take some photos

Lenny, here's one to ponder upon, is it possible to use standard CVs like we have in the axles or rear drive and have an aluminum drive shaft between them, I think an 1/8" wall and 6 to 8" diameter drive line tube would meet my ulterior motive here. Ulterior motive you ask, have a large enough diameter drive line to use with eddy current braking, larger sheds heat better, has more leverage, has more speed so magnetic eddy current braking is more effective, I know eddy current braking will work with non ferrous metals, I think it would have to work with ferrous metals, they use it on locomotives and the tracks, but I don't know.

I would guess that the loss of carrier bearing(5lb) and the bracket that holds it (2 lb) and the center U joint vs the tube all and all 10 lb +- alignment doesn't matter now that it's in, but I think it's correct.

I was having trouble getting the drive line to slide all the way out after I finally got it sliding, the carrier bearing bracket was hitting the frame, so I had to remove the bracket from around the carrier bearing rubber mount, a bit of a pain, but necessary, I suggest some form of lubrication such as windex or denatured alcohol. After I got it out, I found that the yoke closest to the tranny was bad and the bearing could be spun in the yoke. A local drive line specialist said to tack weld the bearing and put a zerk in the bearing, pump it full of grease and run it until it fails. I did a bit more than a tack. Please take a look at this photo and see if I have the U joints of the two pieces aligned properly. https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA Here's the rest of the associated photos, https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA Thanks, Kinarfi