Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

Is there a way to speed up my Hisun Axix 500? With the seat  buckle up, the top speed remains to 28 or 30 MPH.  I have seen there's a speed limiter module right in the middle under the hood. This unit it is a must for the functionality of the vihicle. May be there's some way to hack this device. 

 

 

Thanks!!

Posted

The speed limiter box only limit speed while running in reverse to prevent cutting the wheel over at high speed and rolling your utv.

I'm not familiar with the 500, but you should be able to do slightly faster than that. I've had my 400 up to 35 (indicated) and it wasn't quite at redline yet.

Posted

I would think it should go a little faster but not much, I got a hisun 550 sector which has a different motor then the 500 but I can get it up to 45 before the limiter kicks in and has it cut out, that's so you don't blow your motor up. 

Posted

KGS just to be clear, since the question is about the speed limiter relay:

The max speed is controlled by the gear ratio of the belt on the primary/secondary clutches.

The max engine rpm is controlled by the Delphi MT05 ECU. It is technically adjustable, but it is set to be a safe limit to prevent blowing up the motor.

The speed limiter relay kicks on when the shifter is in reverse to limit the max speed. This is an add on by Hisun because there is no gear input for the Delphi ECU, which is designed to be a flexible, cheap fuel injection solution for a variety of small engines.

  • Thanks 1
  • Alex changed the title to Hisun Axis 500 Speed limit
Posted

There appears to be a couple of experts here and had a question not related to speed but gearing. Is there a way to change the gearing ratio to improve torque? I have an Axis 500 and use it for launching a boat in a small lake on a gentle slope. It will pull it out but if one side of the trailer gets stuck, the engine just Boggs down in low; even in 4 wheel and locked differential. I would have thought the rear wheels would at least spin.

Posted

Basically replacing the clutches with something non standard, or putting smaller tires, so more or less not practical to change gearing.

Keep in mind these things just don't make a lot of HP and the trailer might be too much to haul around. I would expect it will effect the clutch life significantly towing the trailer around.

Posted

Brent, 

The Axis has a wet clutch and then a belt.

If the engine is running then the clutch is spinning. There are paws the sling outward on the clutch that engages the clutch drum. There's not a lot of friction material on the paws.

 

The clutch drum has a shaft. That shaft spins the primary sheave. The primary sheave spins the cvt belt. The cvt belt spins the secondary sheave. The gearing is determined by how Hi or low the belt rides on the primary and secondary sheaves.

The primary sheaves has weights that will move outward so the space between the inner and outer section of the primary sheave varies so the belt can move up and down. 

Same thing happens on the secondary sheave except it is controlled by a spring.

 

If the engine is running, machine running and in gear. And machine isn't moving. Either the wet clutch or cvt belt is slipping.  Either is bad. Usually if the belt is slipping there is usually smoke and a smell. 

 

The weights in the primary sheave and spring in the secondary can be changed. This changes how the cvt belt travels up and down the sheaves and the gearing.

 

I don't know enough to tell you how to change the weights or spring for better performance for what your needing. Just kinda the basic operation. 

 

I have read on other boards about a spacer between the outer primary sheave and nut. That will lower the top speed a little to give a little more torque when riding up hills. But for what your needing I'd say it probably a combination of weights and spring in the sheaves.

 

Now most important thing. I'm no expert. And I may have explained things completely wrong. If I'm wrong someone let me know and I'll delete this post. I don't want to spread misinformation or point people in the wrong direction.

 

Brent, start your own post if you decide to tackle the pulling issue you have. I would like to know your solution. I live 10 minutes from the lake. And 15-20 minutes from 3 different boat ramps. I would like to take my Axis 500 and launch a boat. (Have 3. 16ft pontoon 25hp, 15ft bass 110hp, 14ft V bottom 5hp.) There's also a few places that I could launch, not a ramp, just the shore but I'd have to back out into the lake a little more that I like. And don't want to get stuck or sink up. 

 

Good luck.

Posted

Greg's post is exactly right on the technical details. Unfortunately there aren't different springs and weights available off the shelf for these models so you would have to experiment. There are people with expertise adjusting belt drive clutches, primarily in snowmobiles, who may be able to male a good guess on what you need and identify compatable parts.

Unfortunately these belt driven vehicles don't do a good job towing heavy weights, because they're always subject to slipping, and ontop of that a lot of people report wear issues with Hisun wet clutches anyway.

Posted

Greg & aefrn88,

Appreciate your advise.  I may just live with it for now and really don't want to get into the engine since I'm not an expert mechanic. it only happens when one trailer wheel gets in a rut.  Last time it happened I just backed down a little and got a running start. 🙂  

My situation is with a primitive landing that I built so I can repair where needed.  I have a Boston Whaler 14 Ft with a trolling motor on front.  I took off the gas engine since I'm not allowed to use gas on this particular lake.  It helps make it lighter too.

Posted

One thing you can do is swap to snowmobile trailer tires, which are wider and will float over soft spots better. That's the setup I have on my sailboat trailer.

I have two Boston whalers also (a 15 classic and V-20 Revenge), but those both get launched on concrete ramps.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Theres a few things you can do to get more torque. You can shim the primary which will give you more torque but takeaway some top end speed. You couls also slug wet clutch which will make the wet clutch grab quicker and harder. Than the best mod but expensive is jbs machined sheave kit which will give you morr power everywhere. You can also i install an epi clutch kit with different weight rollers and secondary springs. Clutch parts for a yamaha rhino 450 fit.

Posted
On 2/5/2023 at 5:35 PM, lincolnsq175 said:

Theres a few things you can do to get more torque. You can shim the primary which will give you more torque but takeaway some top end speed. You couls also slug wet clutch which will make the wet clutch grab quicker and harder. Than the best mod but expensive is jbs machined sheave kit which will give you morr power everywhere. You can also i install an epi clutch kit with different weight rollers and secondary springs. Clutch parts for a yamaha rhino 450 fit.

Thanks for the tips.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2019 Hisun axis 500. About two weeks ago it started sputtering when you accelerate. I bought it used in January. I started looking on forums and started on a journey to figure it out. 
the machine has 300 miles on it.

I looked at the driver seat belt safety switch. Then I changed the fuel injector because people were saying they were going bad after about 250 miles. It still had the original gas filter, so I changed that. No difference! Then I changed the air filter because it was pretty dirty. Today I changed the plug. Same problem.. I looked under the hood and seen the speed limiter. I unhooked it and that appears to be the problem. It runs smooth and accelerates nicely. I don’t go off road with it, I bought it to plow my property and take rides through the neighborhood behind us with my grandkids. I think I’m just gonna leave it unplugged. I do feel that all the other things I did were necessary anyway. 
hope this helps somebody

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rschrem
      Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks.  It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is? 
    • By monkthumper
      Fuel pump is good (i hotwired it) swapped relay with known good one no help. I'm leanin towards ECU but cannot find wiring diagram online. Dont know how fuel pump relay gets its signal, all fuses good, any help? 
    • By BigWave
      I turned off the key and then tried to start it a minute later and it would not start. I changed out the fuel filter and the injector. still nothing. if i have the injector pulled out and close to the hole the injector will spray fuel into the hole and it will run but the minute you put the injector in it will die. any idea's please
       
       
      Bigwave
       
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a way to bypass the seatbelt speed limiter?  
    • By Mike Jenkins
      I have a 2013 Hisun with a 686 Yamaha engine.
      I purchased it from an individual and it ran fine as long as the battery was full.
      I replaced the stator and now it will not start (run).  It cranks fine, has fuel pressure, but will not fire up.  I replaced the coil, no luck there.
      a technician told me that it was the wrong stator and wants a mint to replace it.
      the wires all plugged in when I installed the stator.
       
×
×
  • Create New...