Quantcast
Jump to content

rocmoc

Future Engine Replacement!

Recommended Posts



Subaru now has a Diesel Hybrid with All Wheel Drive.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

That would be great. I probably could morgage my house and my vhhicles and if I'm lucky, could come up with enough money to buy one. But after a few years, good thought.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just bought a fresh, aprox 500 mile, 1600cc chery engine of ebay for $275. Originally came from Joyner but I got it from a dealer that bought it from them as a backup but never used it. Joyner took it from a Sand Viper demo they tore down for parts. Don't know if I'll use it but for the price I couldn't let it go. I'll just sell it if I don't use it. Right now, I'm real happy with my supercharger setup although I'm still setting it up.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I say that and almost bid on it myself. Glad I didn't as we would have drove the price up on the two of us.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

When I saw it at buy it now at $250, I figured that someone would grab it so I jumped on it. Already have it picked up. Learned a lot of things about supercharger and turbo set up. This guy puts together turbo systems for a living, that's all he does. Says has hundreds of them and with a lot of them on Joyners. He had an 1100cc sand viper there with it, very nice work. The guy was very knowledgable. When I asked him cost, he said about $2000. I asked why everyone wants $3500, He said "A lot of dealers buy them from me and mark them up". I told him that most won't pay $3500. He agreed and said that they need be realistically priced or people won't buy them. He said his viper was producing about 150HP. He was not using an aftercooler either. Beyond that, he said hard starting is quite often a voltage problem. Said that for some reasons some starters are only getting 8 volts. He always puts in a seperate solenoid direct from the battery to provide a sure 12 volts. Solves the problem. Also said that, what you already mentioned, the rear brakes are doing most of the work. Said to switch the lines so one master works the front and the other the rear. Then adjust the shaft length going to the front master to enguage a little sooner until you get the balance you want. Makes good sense to me. That is exactly what I'm going to do. His viper was a newer one and the front linkage was impressive without a speck of play anywhere. It was nicely done and well engineered. They were obviously on the road to some very well designed changes. He said that if Joyner could have hung on, the changes they were planning would have made Joyners one of the best quality units out there.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Good info, thanks. The brake bias adjustment you are talking about is what my race car before this one had. Worked great, will be doing the same myself. Sadly I will not pay $2,000 for a turbo. Before I did that I would go the engine change route.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree I think I will start looking for a doener car. i think a Honda Fit 1.5ltr would work well. I had a Fit for a couple years and think it would work great small and good power with lots of power adders available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully we can come up with something that is 4wd or Awd for future upgrades. This is something I will put effort into later. I would like to find something with good aftermarket speed upgrades.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, spending $2000 would be better spent on an engine change. I was mentioning it more for those that don't have the where with all to do an engine transplant without hiring it all done which could get real expensive. In their case, the $2000 would almost double their HP and that isn't all that bad.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quit saying things like that Lenny. How are we ever going to get the new engine transplant business going. The best thing to do is hire us to modify to the new engine. only choice. Have a great evening!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Quit saying things like that Lenny. How are we ever going to get the new engine transplant business going. The best thing to do is hire us to modify to the new engine. only choice. Have a great evening!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I have found a company in Wisconsin that makes a 1 rotor rotary motor suppossed to produce 100~hp I have been contemplating this and trying to adapt to a trooper.. I enjoy the mazda rotary in my RX7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found a company in Wisconsin that makes a 1 rotor rotary motor suppossed to produce 100~hp I have been contemplating this and trying to adapt to a trooper.. I enjoy the mazda rotary in my RX7

I was one of the first 5 or 6 people to buy a new RX2 here in Orange county back in 72.I think it was the seals they had problems with then but that car had powerand was smooth running.One of their selling points was that at idle you could take a nickel and stand it up on end on the air cleaner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

one thing i was wondering about was rotation direction Im not sure but depending on what side of the donor car the engine is on would change the way the rotation is in the final drive. this could be a problem for us but what i was figuring is if the engine/tranny setup is the same orientation as ours we should be ok right?

just something to chew on

Kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rotation isn't the problem. The problem is the that most front wheel drive car transmissions are a trans-axle meaning that there are clutches built into the trans output shaft to allow slipping of the two axles to the wheels for easier driving on hard surfaces. Our trans is a trans, direct drive output without any clutches and the slipping is in the diffs. The trans will have to be opened up and output shaft wielded solid or output shaft replaced with direct drive shaft / or something. Rotation is easy to overcome by turning the engine.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rotation isn't the problem. The problem is the that most front wheel drive car transmissions are a trans-axle meaning that there are clutches built into the trans output shaft to allow slipping of the two axles to the wheels for easier driving on hard surfaces. Our trans is a trans, direct drive output without any clutches and the slipping is in the diffs. The trans will have to be opened up and output shaft wielded solid or output shaft replaced with direct drive shaft / or something. Rotation is easy to overcome by turning the engine.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

How are you going to mount the engine backwards? I wasn't worried about the trans axle slipping like you say you just open it up and weld it. or if you get the right engine with a lot of aftermarket parts for the drag racing like a Honda or whatever the kids are racing these days a possi kit may be available.

Kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Engine doesn't care if the water pump is in the front , rear or sideways. I have a rear engine classic where the water pump & pulleys are in the front, one of my race cars on the passenger side, another race car with the front of engine toward driver's side and the Trooper in the rear. The Trans is the governing piece and rotation of the output shaft. Everything else can be made to work. The other concern is the gear ratio of the trans in the Trooper is much lower than normal. When Lenny builds his gear reduction units for the axles, this maybe solved. I would love to have a reverse overdrive unit. CJ5 Jeeps use to have a sweet little bolt on overdrive unit to make the Jeep more highway friendly. We need the reverse! OR a two speed transfer case.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I was trying to say is if the output is in the opposite direction as the cherry then you must turn the engine around and have the transmission at the back which may be difficult and quite uncomfortable having a engine as an arm rest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine doesn't care if the water pump is in the front , rear or sideways. I have a rear engine classic where the water pump & pulleys are in the front, one of my race cars on the passenger side, another race car with the front of engine toward driver's side and the Trooper in the rear. The Trans is the governing piece and rotation of the output shaft. Everything else can be made to work. The other concern is the gear ratio of the trans in the Trooper is much lower than normal. When Lenny builds his gear reduction units for the axles, this maybe solved. I would love to have a reverse overdrive unit. CJ5 Jeeps use to have a sweet little bolt on overdrive unit to make the Jeep more highway friendly. We need the reverse! OR a two speed transfer case.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

When I get my Trooper back together finally, it's been apart since Thanksgiving, One of my next projects is to get into the planetary gear reductions for the axels. I already have four planitary gear assemblies out of the older chevy 350 auto transmissions. They look like they should be just right. It's not going to be easy to develope but I think I can do It. The problem is to get everything into the middle of the axels without hitting anything thru it's suspension swing. I'll also have to incorporate an anchor point at each axel to hold the outter ring gear when in planetary gear reduction. My goal is to try and have it for Farmington but that's going to be a push. Lots of development and machining 4 of everything. It will provide a reduction of aprox. 2.9:1. That looks about perfect to me. Should be able to just crawl thru technical stuff with ease and without horsing the clutch and working the daylihts out of everything. Man, how do I get myself into this stuff. I guess there is no rest for the wicked. Got to admit, it's going to be fun to do. Currently buttoning up loose ends on the electric power steering. Kinarfi has gone through many development changes in the electronics. Each one improving on a already good design but he is being very particular about smoothness, reliaiblilty, and ease of setup. We have also been watching very close to see if we can find any gliches in the mechanical side. One thing for sure, this EPA (Electric Power Assist) is going to have some serious turning power. We have been considering cutting it back some. The amount of assist will still be adjustable by the user but we will limit the max amount a user can go to.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I was trying to say is if the output is in the opposite direction as the cherry then you must turn the engine around and have the transmission at the back which may be difficult and quite uncomfortable having a engine as an arm rest.

Just pretend your in a sidecar on a motorcycle.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I was trying to say is if the output is in the opposite direction as the cherry then you must turn the engine around and have the transmission at the back which may be difficult and quite uncomfortable having a engine as an arm rest.

AaaaH! Now I understand your concern. Mid-Engine vs. Rear-Engine, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • 2016 Joyner T2 1100cc 4 wheel drive

      I have a 2016 Joyner T2 that is giving me problems engaging in and out of 4 wheel drive.  I have read some older posts that address this issue on some older models, but can't get any of the older pics to open for a good explanation.   I have not taken anything apart at this point.  Hoping some mechanically savvy Joyner owners can help me out. Thanks

      By Snatchy, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 1 reply
      • 190 views
    • 250cc longer wheel studs

      Hey there folks, we are now stocking longer and stronger wheel studs for the 2500cc line up, including models from Coleman, HiSUN, Benchee, Massimo and others that share the same parts. The fronts are pretty easy to change out as the hubs are aluminum, but the rears are a little harder since they are made from steel. Really helps with different rims, racing, or striped out poor quality OEM versioins. These are rated at 10.9

      By strike250, in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

      • 0 replies
      • 140 views
    • Switching the drive trine from a 09 joyner trooper r4 to r2 sand viper

      Wondering if anybody has switch the engine and transmission from a trooper t4 to a sand viper  have found a sand viper  missing the engine and transmission also wanted to put front end on sand viper so i would have 4x4 sand viper?

      By Monty Herbold, in New Members Area

      • 2 replies
      • 291 views
    • 2” Lift with 2 inch Banshee Wheel Spacers

      Just bought the 18’ Hisun Strike 250. My kids have already put 50 miles on this thing around the neighborhood. I installed an LED whip and Ordered the 2” lift from Matt. Thanks Matt for you hard work with these things. Also, just ordered the 2” wheel Spacers for this from Amazon. Cost me $110 for the 4 Spacers. I’ll post pics when I get the lift installed before and after the spacers. 

      By SlickNick, in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 0 replies
      • 328 views
    • 09 Mule drive issues

      Hey folks, Glad I found the forum, seems like some pretty knowledgeable folk in here.  I recently bought a Mule with 860 hours on it from auction and I've noticed a couple small issues I'd like to get some opinions on. 1. When the Mule is heated up, been driving 15-20 minutes, when going uphill, it'll have a really hard time getting out of a "low" gear and when trying to shift upwards, it will make a sound like it's not catching and won't pick up speed.  If you push down on the gas, the noise gets worse, and you're not goin any faster.  I've worked around this by stopping the mule, dropping it in neutral, leaving it running for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, then shifting back into drive and it'll go a little ways further before having the issues again. 2. When going from a stop uphill, the entire mule will shudder and shake while moving for the first few seconds, after that, it lets up.   Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance! Chris

      By cachterhof, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 4 replies
      • 360 views


×