Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ad shows Casey as the seller. Casey was the person / manager in charge of the shop at TeamJoyner.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Yea, I spoke to him a few times.Gonna give him a call later.Wish i saw his add last night,I may have made a trip over there and picked up some parts today.

Posted

Yea, I spoke to him a few times.Gonna give him a call later.Wish i saw his add last night,I may have made a trip over there and picked up some parts today.

Is he in Arizona?

Az bound

Posted

Yea, I spoke to him a few times.Gonna give him a call later.Wish i saw his add last night,I may have made a trip over there and picked up some parts today.

Yes, Casey is the one I was troubleshooting with on my high rev problem before they closed. Do you have his phone number?

THX,

Chalkstk

Posted

We are near Tucson, AZ/ The Mexico is south of the border because we go down ofter. Leaving today for a week. You will be 4 hours from us.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

We retired in 04 as Fulltime RV'ers. We manage a small RV park in Quartzsite from Sept to May, then go to Deming for summer months. Problem is now that I have the R-2, I can only tow it either behind the Class A or behind the GMC PU. So I can't drive both vehicles, as my wife hates to drive period............Bummer!

Have a safe and great time in Mex and watch out for those "druggies" :) I have had no meaningful response to my high rev situation. Can't afford to just buy a bunch of parts and hope I catch the problem but never know which part did the fix, that is if I could get all the parts.

Went thru the pdf manual last nite and was disappointed as they give allot of schematics, but no pics of the part they explain. I have no idea what one sensor, except the MAS, looks like or where it is on the engine???

Could I have a possible intake gasket leak? Would that cause high rev? If so, then why does it finally idle after a bunch of strats/stops? This "intermittence" is driving me nuts, instead of me driving my rig :(

Chalkstk

Posted

Chalkstk:

I also had a similar problem to yours. Turned out to be a small rock that had been thrown up into the accelator pedal craddle and the pedal itself. Couldn't see it without pulling the hood fiberglass. I installed flat metal over the entire pedal craddle and haven't had a problem since. Hopes this solves your problem.

Happy Trails

Az Bound

Posted

On some intermittent problem, that I have had in the electrical industry and other places, I have often resorted to unplug everything and plug it back in and it surprises me how often this grenade approach works, covers more area than a shot gun approach :lol: . My theory is that one pin some where is making and breaking contact, whether dirty, corroded, not seated properly, etc. gets a better contact with this procedure, And I assure you, it has worked for me more than just a few times. I would start with the plugs at the computer and eyeball all the pins in the plugs to see if they all protrude the same amount.

Hang in there and if you don't get it fixed, remind us periodically and maybe someone will have a good tip for you.

Posted

We retired in 04 as Fulltime RV'ers. We manage a small RV park in Quartzsite from Sept to May, then go to Deming for summer months. Problem is now that I have the R-2, I can only tow it either behind the Class A or behind the GMC PU. So I can't drive both vehicles, as my wife hates to drive period............Bummer!

Hire a kid to drive the GMC, You get both rigs where you want and the kid has a hoot doing it, he would probably pay you for letting him to do. :)

Posted

On some intermittent problem, that I have had in the electrical industry and other places, I have often resorted to unplug everything and plug it back in and it surprises me how often this grenade approach works, covers more area than a shot gun approach :lol: . My theory is that one pin some where is making and breaking contact, whether dirty, corroded, not seated properly, etc. gets a better contact with this procedure, And I assure you, it has worked for me more than just a few times. I would start with the plugs at the computer and eyeball all the pins in the plugs to see if they all protrude the same amount.

Hang in there and if you don't get it fixed, remind us periodically and maybe someone will have a good tip for you.

Thx Kin,

I'll try the plug in and out thing. Just got some di-electric grease. But my sledge hammer is at the ready :rolleyes:

Frankie

Posted

Chalkstk:

I also had a similar problem to yours. Turned out to be a small rock that had been thrown up into the accelator pedal craddle and the pedal itself. Couldn't see it without pulling the hood fiberglass. I installed flat metal over the entire pedal craddle and haven't had a problem since. Hopes this solves your problem.

Happy Trails

Az Bound

Hi AZ,

The throttle body cam is at rest. Idle screw is completely backed off. Think the plug and unplug tip is next to try. Got di-electric grease and contact cleaner ready. Thx for the concern. Evrybody here has been a great encouragment.

Frankie

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and  before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By OBL
      program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd  try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
    • By AaronD1982
      Onto the next problem, everything has been replaced in the charging system except the Flywheel Rotor, I have it torn apart all the way down to said rotor, but it is suggested that a specific puller is required, and a compatible rotor seems virtually impossible to find.  I can find many like it, but this one is mine scenario for those that get the reference.  For all I know I have the last Massimo Buck 400S on the planet and will never find another part again, but who knows.  Any ideas, help or otherwise that anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...