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akillu

engine swap

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hi everyone, after 3 long nights or reading every post and reply in the forum i decided to join to share some ideas and some advise.

sims to be that kinarfi, lenny and rocmoc are the ones that joyner should of have on the r&d department, u guys dont know or should i say know to well how hard is to fing info on this troopers, thats why u guys started the forum, thanks for that.

k ive been reading all the posts, u guys talk bout engine swap, rotation of the motor is never a problem, if it goes the wrong way just turn ur difs upside down and done, im sure lenny can figure out how to machine new drain and levelplugs, plus now u can fill from the top. anyways just being a smart ass.

why dont anyone has done a turbo set up with and stand alone user friendly engine management system? way easyer to set up and if u find the right one u might be able to use all ur sensors. ( www.sdsefi.com )

the lightest engine transmission ive found is an nissan sr20det this is an 2000cc engine making uo to 230hp out the car, u can get the front clip of a 90/93 pulsar gtir thats the car cutted in half u get the front half , all of it, noe thats an all wheel drive trans, ranges from 2000$ to about 3500 depends on the condition, u get everything, imagine going outside and cut ur car in half and put the front on a shipping crate.

k nissan is an very interchangeable company, that motor will fit any transmission that has the bolt patern of an sr20 engine model so in the united states nissan came out with an pulsar nx2000, with an automatic transmission and a sr20de engine, whats missing? the t at the ed of the engine model that stands for turbo, the sr20 engine is extremly popular for engine swap cause the easy of upgrades to make lots of power. anyways food for thoughts trooper with an automatic trans and available 300 horses?? dream come true if u ask me. ill be doing more research and probably will do this swap.

i see u guys have been looking at chery transmissions, dont forget to look at the maximum imput hp/kw/ps on the trans, u guys are running turbos and superchargers so trans might not hold up.

thanks millions for the info on the shocks ad spring rates, sway away .com has a spring rate calculator, for future references,, just put all ur info and get the rates for dual and tripe rate set up, i just ordered a set of 10 inchtravel rear piggyback shocks from eshocs.com and a set of 8 inch for the front. i know u guys will tell me that rears are to long but is all in the way and angle u mount the shock, the shocs are sway away racerunners and they use them in baja trucks so see how they wrk on the trooper. and they have 6 inch ones too

by the way: any word on the steering assist setup u guys are building? need one!!!!!!!

i read that someone was going to try two head gaskets to bring the compression ratio down, i think it was lenny, is there anyone or company that will make u a gasket from scratch just by giving themur old one? in the old country we had gasket makers and they would build them out of copper and the thickness u needed, somethimg else to think about.

any ways is been nice to read all the info and will be used on my trooper, i have 1100 miles of unbelievable absolute abuse on mine and i have no complains other than every bolt and nut has loosen up and rattles like a gypsy wagon, now is time to do a complete tear down and fix all the problems.

thanks again and ill post some pics of the mods and how they were done. thanks a lot for all the info!!!!!

Alex.

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Welcome Alex!

Thanks for the kind words.

I WILL address the engine/trans exchange when the current one cost more to fix than to change out. Right now she is running great but would love to have MORE POWER. LOL!

Silverbullet in Yuma, AZ has an electric power steering setup AND

Snowman / No Limits in Arlington, TX has a slick hydraulic setup.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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hi Romoc, ill check the system from silverbullet as my past experience with lockers and hidraulic sterring hasnt be pleasant, i had an 92 landcruiser that i adapted a cummings 5.9 to and did an airbag suspension on it, so added lockers and when locked all around with traction in all wheels would blow the power steering pump out, a friend of mine has the hidraulic set up on his trooper and u cant feel how hard u r steering when locked all around so he has gone thru 2 front diffs so ill stick with the asist as i think o can feel when u over steering with the lockers on. thanks for the links.

now does anyone has invented an electric locker actuator for the trooper? ive been looking at the artic cat prowler one and trying to figure how to make it wrk/ how to atached to the diff itself, im tired of adjusting the cables specialy the rear one.

thanks

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hi everyone, after 3 long nights or reading every post and reply in the forum i decided to join to share some ideas and some advise.

sims to be that kinarfi, lenny and rocmoc are the ones that joyner should of have on the r&d department, u guys dont know or should i say know to well how hard is to fing info on this troopers, thats why u guys started the forum, thanks for that.

k ive been reading all the posts, u guys talk bout engine swap, rotation of the motor is never a problem, if it goes the wrong way just turn ur difs upside down and done, im sure lenny can figure out how to machine new drain and levelplugs, plus now u can fill from the top. anyways just being a smart ass.

why dont anyone has done a turbo set up with and stand alone user friendly engine management system? way easyer to set up and if u find the right one u might be able to use all ur sensors. ( www.sdsefi.com )

the lightest engine transmission ive found is an nissan sr20det this is an 2000cc engine making uo to 230hp out the car, u can get the front clip of a 90/93 pulsar gtir thats the car cutted in half u get the front half , all of it, noe thats an all wheel drive trans, ranges from 2000$ to about 3500 depends on the condition, u get everything, imagine going outside and cut ur car in half and put the front on a shipping crate.

k nissan is an very interchangeable company, that motor will fit any transmission that has the bolt patern of an sr20 engine model so in the united states nissan came out with an pulsar nx2000, with an automatic transmission and a sr20de engine, whats missing? the t at the ed of the engine model that stands for turbo, the sr20 engine is extremly popular for engine swap cause the easy of upgrades to make lots of power. anyways food for thoughts trooper with an automatic trans and available 300 horses?? dream come true if u ask me. ill be doing more research and probably will do this swap.

i see u guys have been looking at chery transmissions, dont forget to look at the maximum imput hp/kw/ps on the trans, u guys are running turbos and superchargers so trans might not hold up.

thanks millions for the info on the shocks ad spring rates, sway away .com has a spring rate calculator, for future references,, just put all ur info and get the rates for dual and tripe rate set up, i just ordered a set of 10 inchtravel rear piggyback shocks from eshocs.com and a set of 8 inch for the front. i know u guys will tell me that rears are to long but is all in the way and angle u mount the shock, the shocs are sway away racerunners and they use them in baja trucks so see how they wrk on the trooper. and they have 6 inch ones too

by the way: any word on the steering assist setup u guys are building? need one!!!!!!!

i read that someone was going to try two head gaskets to bring the compression ratio down, i think it was lenny, is there anyone or company that will make u a gasket from scratch just by giving themur old one? in the old country we had gasket makers and they would build them out of copper and the thickness u needed, somethimg else to think about.

any ways is been nice to read all the info and will be used on my trooper, i have 1100 miles of unbelievable absolute abuse on mine and i have no complains other than every bolt and nut has loosen up and rattles like a gypsy wagon, now is time to do a complete tear down and fix all the problems.

thanks again and ill post some pics of the mods and how they were done. thanks a lot for all the info!!!!!

Alex.

Alex,

Welcome,thanks for the info.Can you give us some info about you? Where are you at and where do you do most of your riding?

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Welcome Alex, awesome first post. Sounds like you will earn yourself a nick-name in no time like, "JL" and that would be short for Junior Lenny. Like Rick has said above, tell us more about yourself and full out your profile.

As you have found out, there is plenty of info on the site and if you have advice or need it, don't hold back.

Cheers Mike.

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Alex,

Welcome,thanks for the info.Can you give us some info about you? Where are you at and where do you do most of your riding?

Hi Alex

We have low compression forged piston.Now we carry standard piston 0.010 or 0.020 over sized Also custom head gaskets..We have found a new market we are rebuilding Trooper Renegade Commandos motors.We have found that most of the time customers have not taken vary good care of thear motors.Also the vary worst filter system dosent help.So when you see a new Joyner trailing around tell them to change thear filters.We are trying out a new filter system.It looking vary good so far.

post-339-092999000 1287268285_thumb.jpg

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Hey Alex, welcome. Thanks for your kind words. You sound like a man after my heart, will try anything. Good post. I've decided that when I go to another engine, it will be a deisel with a six speed stick and a low range. I want to be able to chug through or up over anything. Chery makes a pretty nice little diesel with matching 6 speed trans. Puts out about 125HP and 195 ft/pds torque. Thats 40 more horse power and more then double our torque. I would be suspect of the stock differentials with heavy horsepower or torque. Would have to check with Chery on our diff specs. If you look on Ebay, you'll find lots of electric power steering systems. Most of them are complete needing only adaptive installation and a 12v power source. About $100-$175. As far as an actuator for the lockout, look at an automotive door locking selenoid. I stumbled across one the other day, at least I beleive that is what it was, and it looked perfect. It was quite strong too. For that matter, pretty much any 12v selenoid would work. Let it draw one way and spring load the other. The diff pin doesn't require much force to move it in or out. By the way, I just received my stand alone Megasquirt computer the other day. I can tell that my Trooper with the supercharger wants to run real strong. The stock computer only keeps up in a few small ranges but miss controls things all the other times. It's either getting too much or little fuel most all the time. Just put Renegade differential gearing in which lowers my gearing about 1/15. Not a lot but can tell on climbing at low RPMs, nice improvement. My 31" tires moved up my gear ratio quite a bit. I found that the ring gears are idenical so only the pinion gear needs to be changed from 15T to 14T. If you are familiar with gears, tooth shapes don't change on every increases or decreased in tooth count but about 3, 4 or 5 count. It does require a couple of easy diff changes to get the gears matching correct.

Lenny

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hi everyone, after 3 long nights or reading every post and reply in the forum i decided to join to share some ideas and some advise.

sims to be that kinarfi, lenny and rocmoc are the ones that joyner should of have on the r&d department, u guys dont know or should i say know to well how hard is to fing info on this troopers, thats why u guys started the forum, thanks for that.

by the way: any word on the steering assist setup u guys are building? need one!!!!!!!

thanks again and ill post some pics of the mods and how they were done. thanks a lot for all the info!!!!!

Alex.

Hi Alex,

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the compliment.

A little more info on the steering assist, only Lenny and I have it, as we built them together. I have it on mine and it's working good to great. Lenny's has been changed extensively. After a fair amount of liability consideration, we decided against putting it out. If I thought that I might have a market for a couple hundred, I could see setting up a limited liability corp., but I don't think I could sell but 25 or so, maybe Silver bullet or Snowman will pick it up, (hint, hint) :rolleyes: . I just got back from 3 days at the Little Sahara Sand Dunes near Delta, Utah, and had my Trooper in 4 X 4 most the time and with both lockers engaged some of the time and it did real good. I surprised a bunch of quad riders as to how well I could get around in the sand, but still not as well as they did and I did get stuck twice by high centering, once when I backed out of the throttle at the top of a ridge and once when I didn't make a hill and backed onto a sage brush that was covered with sand.

If you have a bunch photos to post, PM me and I'll point you to Web Shots, http://community.webshots.com/user/TrooperFolk, You can create your own album and put all the photos you want in it including videos.

Again, Welcome to the forum, we'll all be looking forward to your participation, and as others said, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you better.

Kinarfi

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thanks guys for the warm welcome, i have fill my profile so hope i did it right. i like to pick ur guys brains cause there is lots of knowledge that i like to absorb.

so romoc u made ur oun turbo system no? im pretty sure u have done all the upgrades to make the computer compensate for the extra air u getting into the cilinders, but have u and Lenny thought on changing injectors? i was wondering if anyone know the rate on the trooper injectors? i think if im right by the engine size and the max rpm we could have 180cc/min injectors, and i believe they r bosch stile wire plug, so like i sayed before lets find an stand alone engine management system and lets start adding more air and fuel to this engine, i pulled out my books out and made some numbers and if u chosen the right turbo, and hoping that injectors are actually 180cc/min then maxed out at 80% duty cycle on the injectors u should be running arounf 140hp. now, lets install bosch 370cc/min injectors, thats 10cc/min more than double but i have runn them before and they have good atomization at low rpm not like big 880cc/min injectors. anyways do u know what turbine a/r and what compressor a/r u have on ur turbo? im pretty sure u have checked the cfm for the turbo u should be close, what kind of psi are u running on ur set up? if thsomeone is telling u that togo higher psi u need race fuel they r right in one way u need to slow down the burn in the combustion chamber to avoid detonation but the way i have done it is retard the timing 1 or 2 degrees and add more fuel so the exaust temperature gasses come down from melting point, we cant do this on r factory ecm, so like Lenny maybe u guys can figure out all the parameters for a stand alone ecm system. i have done it with my 300zx twin turbo and when i sold it the guy that bought it had a 700hp one and he told me that he never seen an stock 300zx twin turbo break loose in 3rd gear, i had an stock engine, injectors and turbos just the right add ons and the right program on the eprom in the computer, at that time there wasnt a stand alone system that would controll camshaft timing so i stook with the nissan computer so the cam timing would be taken care of. the car was stock 300bhp and by my numbers i was running 350 at the wheels, i learned a lot there about tunning what u have to get the extra 10% that everyone else miss cause they just bolt on parts and dont tune them to work together. like i sayed before, dont get me wrong i just want to share what i know and learn from what u guys know, is all food for thought and please dont take me the wrong way, just like to put that bug in your brain that will make u find the power that u desire.

Lenny: just wanted to mention, vw jetta tdi 2.0 with 6 speed manual. horse power little better than chery and parts are ready available for them. again food for thought.

anyways ill live it here, im tired and have to wake up in 3 hours, by the way the fender extensions that u guys mentioned i one of the posts u can get them here, they called puck board and it comes in a 4x8 sheet like plywood, thats what vthey cover the walls on a hockey ring with and comes white or black, in 3/16, 1/4 and 1/2 inch thikness, very versatile and very moldeable wuth hear. again food for thought fie body parts and 1/2 inch for full skid plate,

night.

Alex

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Good morning Alex,

Lenny is the turbo guy and a couple others. I am old school, want to do it with CCs and cam. In fact I would love to do away with the CPU if I change out the engine. Big believer in the KISS principle, Keep It Simple Stupid. Easier to fix when you are in the sticks.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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Hey Alex. I can see we are giong to enjoy your input. I am using 22 pound/hr injectgor. Stock in about 16 pound/hr and pobably less. Tried to find what the stock ones were but nothing available on them. Mine are based on 140HP. There is a guy in Cottonwood, AZ that does turbos for Troopers. He runs the stock injectors but uses a 12 to 1 fuel booster giving him up to 140 psi fuel ressure. It seems to work fine for him but I don't like fuel pressure that high, talk about atomization should a fuel liine brake. Megasquirt doesn't recomend over 70 psi on injectors. I think your 370cc/min (about 38 pounds/hr) is too high. They may atomize good at low rpms but this would possibly put them below their turn on time which would mean you would loose volumn control. My 22# injectors seem to be about right but I've been trying to run them by boosting fuel pressure. I just can't get good control that way, it is sort of like guessing at it. It runs fairly good, not right though, up to about 2000rpms then seems to get too much fuel. With the new computer, i'll be able to get it correct. I'm running a 500cc Aisin supercharger and spinning it about 2 to 1. So, I'm pushing about 1000cc of air in per revolution Or close to twice the engine volumn. Before I added an aftercooler, this gave me about 10.5 pounds of boost. As a result, I cut my compression down to about 7 to 1 giving me a boosted compression of about 11.6:1. I didn't want to run racing fuel. Then I added an aftercooler and that brought my boost down to about 8.5:1 so now I need to ups my comression a bit. I took the extra ccs I needed, 1/3 out of the head and 2/3 off the pistons. The advantage of the supercharger over the turbo is the low end torque. I went up a 40 degree slope the other day in low and never got above 1200rpms. With by big tires and diff gear changing, my gearing would compare to a stock Trooper with about 29" tires. I was trying to see how low it would pull. I don't need to be reving to get good low end pulling. Your right, just cleaning up the engines breathing and getting corrected computer reference tables would make a big difference on power. I'm sure were running a standard enviromentially conservitave, set up for street use, commputer. I will be instaslling my Megasquirt computer shortly. It's a littl e intiminating but it won't be the first time I got myself into a can of worms. Your right on the engine, I would go with the VW and only mentioned the Chery because it is about the right size and I had the specs.

Yes Rocmoc, keeping it simple is good for when out in no mans land. I sort of figure that my truck uses a computer and if I could get my Trooper to be as reliable as my truck, I would be happy. I know IF.

Lenny

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