I was taking my family on a little ride up the road going uphill in our massimo msu 500. Then all of a sudden it quit pulling and the rpms went up way high to over 6000. After we got it pushed on up the hill and turned around was able to coast back to the house. We do ride it alot on the main road, so I am assuming top speed and top rpms constantly is more than likely to blame for this issue, now I just need to know how to fix it. If anyone has any suggestions it is appreciated
By Charles Hines
I bought a 2021 Coleman 400 UTV from Tractor supply mainly because of the $2000 off black Friday sale ($6999). I wanted something to do some light hauling around the boat shop and figured this would be a better choice than a golf cart. Initial review is that for the money,it's got to be the best deal going. Fully equipped right out of the box with a lot of nice features. First off,everything worked,that's a good thing. First thing I noticed is that this thing is LOUD,so loud that I use foam ear plugs to run it. The rear axle is locked,like most 4 wheelers,so the tires scrub on tight turns and will tear up the lawn. I found some loose bolts and did a general inspection of everything and tightened up the loose ones as I found them. It's cold here in SE Michigan and I want to do some recreational use during the winter. I bought a 3 Star door and rear window soft enclosure and installed it. Top quality materials and fit great. I added some foam to close off all the gaps and it really does the job. Next I added a Ice Crusher heater kit that uses the coolant to provide heat in the cab. Quality parts and the kit was pretty much complete,I also added a coolant shutoff valve so I can direct all the coolant through the heater instead of the radiator,or blend it as I wish. The heater has a 3 speed fan and 2 directional outlets for this model and with the enclosure will warm it up to shirt sleeve temps at speed with the outside temps in the low 30's. I also added a Kolpin Stealth 2 auxiliary silencer, the exhaust note is definitely quieter and less raspy, but this rig is still noisy enough at speed that you need ear muffs or plugs. I changed out the headlight bulbs to LED's which are a big improvement from the halogens. I figured out a trailer hitch adapter for the oddball thing Colman provides. Now it's just run it in and break it in. For a 400, it is actually quicker and faster than I expected,the specs say 38, but it's closer to 50. Brakes are powerful and smooth. The solid rear axle makes this thing pretty capable,but you also have the push button 4 wheel drive and a push button front diff locker if you need it. All in, it's set up just the way I wanted it for under $8000.
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.