Kinarfi's Engine Rebuild

[Kinarfi]

I went through this and removed all the bad links I found

Got started getting ready to pull the engine yesterday, so far just draining and disconnecting.

Question, what's the best way to pull it, that is which engine to frame mounts should I unbolt, and do I unbolt at the engine or the frame

should I start a blog for this project, never done one before?

kinarfi

[Jarrad]

I have a motor out right now let me post a few pictures in a bit

[Kinarfi]

here's the photos I've taken so far. basically just for reference when I get to putting things back together. got all the bolts out and the engine should be free, but it won't budge, but I haven't tried very hard yet. Pulled the 4 bolts between engine and tranny, and all the bolts holding the mounts to the frame, left the mounts tied to the engine as I figure that the factory got the lined up so things sit level.

 

kinarfi

[rocmoc]

Kinarfi,

I removed the bolts between the frame and the engine mounts. I believe there are more than 4 bolts on the tranny, not home at the moment. I removed the engine and tranny in one unit, just my preference. Then separated the engine from the tranny.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[2scoops]

Kinarfi,

I removed the bolts between the frame and the engine mounts. I believe there are more than 4 bolts on the tranny, not home at the moment. I removed the engine and tranny in one unit, just my preference. Then separated the engine from the tranny.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Wow, wow, wow...why is it sounding like removing the engine is common place around here? Is there something I should know? Not LOL!

[Kinarfi]

A few comments about what I have seen so far, check your radiator fan shroud for cracks in the aluminum brackets that support it, mine has some cracks near the mount holes.

I have flipped my intake manifold and added a snorkel to my buggy, the last time I took it out for a ride, I came home during a storm and when I pull the air intake hose, it had some water still in, last ride was over two months ago, so if you have a snorkel and it's raining or snowing, put a bag on the snorkel and if you have flipped the intake like I have, you may have a problem with the water running into the cylinders which can't happen if you haven't flipped the intake.

Now for a request for a little advice. I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts between the engine and the transmission, all the bolts between the frame and mounts have been removed and I have moved the motor up and down with a pry bar and it separated from the tranny a little, but I can't slide it back. Anyone have any advice, about what my be holding it, or is it just gravity and I'm weak? The motor just slides out of the clutch, right?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

[rocmoc]

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Kinarfi]

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

When you find it, lets put it in unique fixes

[Guest Lenny]

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Kinarfi, let me know if you remove the clutch. As rockmoc said, it can be difficult to realign the spleened hole in the clutch plate with the pilot bearing hole in the flywheel. If you like and give me the proper dimensions, I 'll machine a alignment tool for you. It will be nothing more then a piece of round shaft machined to just slide through the clutch plate and then step down to just slide into the flywheel. Use it when bolting the clutch back onto the flywheel. This will align the two so when it's time to slide the engine back in, it should go fairly simple. Then you will just have to rotate the to get the spleens to line up. If the engine shows seperation from the tranny then it should be loose. When tring to slide them apart, front of the engine and the rear of the tranny tend to droop making things bind. As Rocmoc said, support the tranny so this can't happen. Make the gap between the tranny and engine parallel all the way around showing square alignment then the engine should slide out freely. If it doesn't , start checking for hooked wires, etc. Can't remember if there are only 4 bolts or not but if it's showing signs of seperating, you should be good.

Lenny

[Jarrad]

Yes only 4 bolts and 2 starter bolts. Also remove the crank sensor so it does not get damaged. You may have already I have not looked at your pictures

EDIT -- Kinarfi -- Don't forget the clutch cover bolted to the transmission on the underside.

[rocmoc]

Here is the link to my post & pics of when I pulled my engine,  no photos any more,  long with the throw-out bearing replacement tip.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Guest Lenny]

Wow, wow, wow...why is it sounding like removing the engine is common place around here? Is there something I should know? Not LOL!

There are three of us that have pulled the engine, Rocmoc, Snowman6479 and Myself. There may be others I don't know about. We have a pretty good feel about the job. It's not that hard.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

Thanks, take a look at the parts & pieces post and see what you think and let me know if there are other links like what I just put in. Thanks again.

[Kinarfi]

Yes only 4 bolts and 2 starter bolts. Also remove the crank sensor so it does not get damaged. You may have already I have not looked at your pictures

Thanks, you probably just saved me from having to buy a new sensor, I wasn't planning to remove it, but I guess it can get damaged from the inside.

Thanks Again,

Kinarfi

[Kinarfi]

here's an easy one to miss, pull the clutch cover plate for the bottom half of the clutch, 2 smaller bolts.

now what, get the hoist, right

 

[Kinarfi]

It's out and still hanging, Had to remove the right side motor mount so it would clear the frame work,

 

[rocmoc]

Be very very careful. Not a fan of your hoist setup!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Kinarfi]

Be very very careful. Not a fan of your hoist setup!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Me neither, but poor folk have poor ways and the lift that I have access to is in Salt Lake City and that's if my brother in law is home and hasn't buried it under a pile of junk, but I AM being really careful and watching and listening for any hints of trouble. Thanks for your concern, A Thought, you could come help me and that would get rid of some the danger , I know, you're busy or you would come do it for me Oh yea, pick up Lenny as you come through his area.

Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

On 1/22/2011 at 4:15 PM, Kinarfi said:

It's out and still hanging, Had to remove the right side motor mount so it would clear the frame work,

 

The hoist cable should be easily strong enough to hold the engine which is only maybe 225 pounds. The problem is the type of hoist your using looks like a cheap chineese one and they sometimes have stop catches that don't always work good or can even let loose. I have even blown them apart because the pin through the spool puls out under load. Alright, I admit, I am pretty good at pushing things beyound what they was designed for. Be careful and just remember it could all of a sudden drop. When you get into your engine be sure to hone the ridges out of the cylinders and check the new rings for correct end gap. As long as you have it apart, I would also clean up the matching of the intake and exhaust ports. Look at them, you will see how mismatched they are. An electric drill with a carbide burr will do the jop. Don't use a straight sided cutter but one that sort of bulges out in the center and has a ball nose end. Probably about a 3/8" max diameter cutter will be fine. A lot easier to do a nice job with. Also use WD40 as a lubercant for the proting work. Pay attention to the direction of the rods and rod caps and the pistons. Don't interchange anything. The cap that comes off a rod goes back on that rod. Oil all surfaces and bearings upon assembly, you don't want them to start out dry. Don't worry about your cam timing, just take it apart. If your not sure when your ready to reassemble the cams into the head and install the timing belt, give me a call. Keep track of what shims, just under the cam lifter lobes, come out from what position. You will want to put them back in the same locations. Best is to check valve clearance and adjust as necessary but that is hard to do as you don't adjust it but replace the shims with shims of a different thickness. The shims are hard to find unless Jarrad has some.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

This ought to relieve your worries and it sure made my job a lot easier, hey snow man, are all the oil pans glued on with silicone, I've often thought that my rig was one that was returned or something.

All the previous pictures will have a broken picture symbol because I deleted the album and started over because everything was out of order, but only the last few mattered plus I gave them all a new name.

Any way, it's out and on the table, tomorrow the head comes off, as soon as I read up on how to release the tension on the timing belt. probably in the manual, but if someone wants to post it, I'll read it.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Oh ye, check the last 4 photo for my timing resetting trick.

I may have a problem, I was planning on NOT pulling the pulley of the end of the crank shaft if I don't have to. Is there a way to remove the tension on the timing belt with out pulling the pulley and lower half of the timing belt cover?

[Jarrad]

They are all Siliconed on there is no gasket. Most car manufactuers do this to save money and create a better seal. I will usually remove the head in the buggy then lift the engine out by hand with a little help from a worker. as far as timing goes don't worry about it, just once you pull the belt try not to rotate the motor incase you have a valve in a downward position. The motors are suppossed to be interference motors, although you couldn't tell by my incredible luck at the meet lastyear. The timing marks on the engine and pulleys are cleary defined. We have one engine out right now at the shop and another coming out this week, customer brought us a unit with 60 miles on it that he dunked in the water and hydrolocked it. Some hillbilly tried to fix it, had cam timing all off and everything else. but the kicker is he did not notice the #3 piston was .120" below #2.. sure sign of a bent connecing rod. I will have to get pictures of the carnage as soon as he gives us the ok to pull it out and apart.

[Jarrad]

On 1/23/2011 at 10:49 PM, Kinarfi said:

This ought to relieve your worries and it sure made my job a lot easier, hey snow man, are all the oil pans glued on with silicone, I've often thought that my rig was one that was returned or something.

 

All the previous pictures will have a broken picture symbol because I deleted the album and started over because everything was out of order, but only the last few mattered plus I gave them all a new name.

Any way, it's out and on the table, tomorrow the head comes off, as soon as I read up on how to release the tension on the timing belt. probably in the manual, but if someone wants to post it, I'll read it.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Oh ye, check the last 4 photo for my timing resetting trick.

I may have a problem, I was planning on NOT pulling the pulley of the end of the crank shaft if I don't have to. Is there a way to remove the tension on the timing belt with out pulling the pulley and lower half of the timing belt cover?

Go ahead and pull the lower pulley.. once you get bolt loose then pully will slide off in your hand. that way you can see your lower timing mark.. also loosen the bolt on the tensionerand it will loosen the belt. I don't see any reason since you have the engine out and apart not to replace that timing belt.

[Jarrad]

Here is the first engine apart.. nothing to see here but a bunch of ingested dirt

[plumber]

Here is the first engine apart.. nothing to see here but a bunch of ingested dirt

snowman6479 you carry all the parts to rebuild these chery engine

[Jarrad]

If I don't have it I can get it.

[plumber]

If I don't have it I can get it.

Great I been wanting to put a turbo on mine but I was afraid if I tore it up I couldn't get the parts to fix it.

[Kinarfi]

 

At this point, I switched cameras to get better detail, the next bunch of photos is what I saw as I tore down the motor, I think I need new rings!!!!!

 

After you click on the picture, find the " full size " button, the click again on that picture

[ricksrb]

On 1/25/2011 at 7:17 PM, Kinarfi said:

 

At this point, I switched cameras to get better detail, the next bunch of photos is what I saw as I tore down the motor, I think I need new rings!!!!!

 

After you click on the picture, find the " full size " button, the click again on that picture

how many miles are on it?

[rocmoc]

You sure can see where she was burning oil but the burnt carbon looks kind of funny. Maybe it is the new gas. Lenny & Snowman, look at the pics of the head around the valves. Funny burn. Maybe because of being so wet with oil and trying to run/burn.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Guest Lenny]

On 1/25/2011 at 7:17 PM, Kinarfi said:

 

At this point, I switched cameras to get better detail, the next bunch of photos is what I saw as I tore down the motor, I think I need new rings!!!!!

 

After you click on the picture, find the " full size " button, the click again on that picture

Definetely burning oil. The top valves are the exhaust and you can see where they were hot enough to burn off some of the carbon buildup. The first picture has a place to the lower left side where the head gasket is that looks like the gasket was leaking. It looks like a little burn through. Also the valves in that picture show what looks like a bit of rust. The second cylinder shows the same but not as bad. If it is rust, it would be from the engine setting and a bit of coolant moisture getting into the combustion chambers. I think that is why the burn around the valves looks a bit funny. Sort of a mixture of rust and carbon and took on this look after setting. I don't know if anti-freeze will allow rust but that is what it looks like to me. This may be a good reason to re-torque the head after a few hundred miles from new or rebuild. Not nice because you have to pull the cams to do it. Cylinder #1 (rear most) shows the worst oil problem and almost looks like oil still left on the piston and head. along with having the most carbon build up by a good bit. The ring gap is huge. Make sure you mic the cylinders front to rear and side to side at both the top below the ring ridge and down a couple of inches. Also mic the pistons both directions including the ring grove width. With that much wear on the piston rings, I have to beleive that the cylinder is oversized and the piston undersized. If so, you will need to have it bored and go to oversized pistons and rings. Sorry; Might as well have the valves ground too then everything will be fresh like a new engine.

Lenny