Quantcast
Jump to content

Kinarfi

Kinarfi's Engine Rebuild

Recommended Posts

I went through this and removed all the bad links I found

Got started getting ready to pull the engine yesterday, so far just draining and disconnecting.

Question, what's the best way to pull it, that is which engine to frame mounts should I unbolt, and do I unbolt at the engine or the frame

should I start a blog for this project, never done one before?

kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


here's the photos I've taken so far. basically just for reference when I get to putting things back together. got all the bolts out and the engine should be free, but it won't budge, but I haven't tried very hard yet. Pulled the 4 bolts between engine and tranny, and all the bolts holding the mounts to the frame, left the mounts tied to the engine as I figure that the factory got the lined up so things sit level.

 

kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinarfi,

I removed the bolts between the frame and the engine mounts. I believe there are more than 4 bolts on the tranny, not home at the moment. I removed the engine and tranny in one unit, just my preference. Then separated the engine from the tranny.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinarfi,

I removed the bolts between the frame and the engine mounts. I believe there are more than 4 bolts on the tranny, not home at the moment. I removed the engine and tranny in one unit, just my preference. Then separated the engine from the tranny.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Wow, wow, wow...why is it sounding like removing the engine is common place around here? Is there something I should know? Not LOL!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


A few comments about what I have seen so far, check your radiator fan shroud for cracks in the aluminum brackets that support it, mine has some cracks near the mount holes.

I have flipped my intake manifold and added a snorkel to my buggy, the last time I took it out for a ride, I came home during a storm and when I pull the air intake hose, it had some water still in, last ride was over two months ago, so if you have a snorkel and it's raining or snowing, put a bag on the snorkel and if you have flipped the intake like I have, you may have a problem with the water running into the cylinders which can't happen if you haven't flipped the intake.

Now for a request for a little advice. I'm pretty sure there are only 4 bolts between the engine and the transmission, all the bolts between the frame and mounts have been removed and I have moved the motor up and down with a pry bar and it separated from the tranny a little, but I can't slide it back. Anyone have any advice, about what my be holding it, or is it just gravity and I'm weak? The motor just slides out of the clutch, right?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

When you find it, lets put it in unique fixes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the tranny just slides together like any other setup. May have to place a block of wood under the rear of the tranny for support to keep the correct alignment. The pain is when you change out the throw-out bearing. I posted the trick in the past. Will have to try and find it. Don't remember what it was but it was different. Change the clutch while it is apart.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Kinarfi, let me know if you remove the clutch. As rockmoc said, it can be difficult to realign the spleened hole in the clutch plate with the pilot bearing hole in the flywheel. If you like and give me the proper dimensions, I 'll machine a alignment tool for you. It will be nothing more then a piece of round shaft machined to just slide through the clutch plate and then step down to just slide into the flywheel. Use it when bolting the clutch back onto the flywheel. This will align the two so when it's time to slide the engine back in, it should go fairly simple. Then you will just have to rotate the to get the spleens to line up. If the engine shows seperation from the tranny then it should be loose. When tring to slide them apart, front of the engine and the rear of the tranny tend to droop making things bind. As Rocmoc said, support the tranny so this can't happen. Make the gap between the tranny and engine parallel all the way around showing square alignment then the engine should slide out freely. If it doesn't , start checking for hooked wires, etc. Can't remember if there are only 4 bolts or not but if it's showing signs of seperating, you should be good.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes only 4 bolts and 2 starter bolts. Also remove the crank sensor so it does not get damaged. You may have already I have not looked at your pictures

EDIT -- Kinarfi -- Don't forget the clutch cover bolted to the transmission on the underside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Here is the link to my post & pics of when I pulled my engine,  no photos any more,  long with the throw-out bearing replacement tip.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, wow, wow...why is it sounding like removing the engine is common place around here? Is there something I should know? Not LOL!

There are three of us that have pulled the engine, Rocmoc, Snowman6479 and Myself. There may be others I don't know about. We have a pretty good feel about the job. It's not that hard.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, take a look at the parts & pieces post and see what you think and let me know if there are other links like what I just put in. Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes only 4 bolts and 2 starter bolts. Also remove the crank sensor so it does not get damaged. You may have already I have not looked at your pictures

Thanks, you probably just saved me from having to buy a new sensor, I wasn't planning to remove it, but I guess it can get damaged from the inside.

Thanks Again,

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here's an easy one to miss, pull the clutch cover plate for the bottom half of the clutch, 2 smaller bolts.

now what, get the hoist, right

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Be very very careful. Not a fan of your hoist setup!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Me neither, but poor folk have poor ways and the lift that I have access to is in Salt Lake City and that's if my brother in law is home and hasn't buried it under a pile of junk, but I AM being really careful and watching and listening for any hints of trouble. Thanks for your concern, A Thought, you could come help me and that would get rid of some the danger , I know, you're busy or you would come do it for me :) Oh yea, pick up Lenny as you come through his area. :)

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/22/2011 at 4:15 PM, Kinarfi said:

It's out and still hanging, Had to remove the right side motor mount so it would clear the frame work,

 

The hoist cable should be easily strong enough to hold the engine which is only maybe 225 pounds. The problem is the type of hoist your using looks like a cheap chineese one and they sometimes have stop catches that don't always work good or can even let loose. I have even blown them apart because the pin through the spool puls out under load. Alright, I admit, I am pretty good at pushing things beyound what they was designed for. Be careful and just remember it could all of a sudden drop. When you get into your engine be sure to hone the ridges out of the cylinders and check the new rings for correct end gap. As long as you have it apart, I would also clean up the matching of the intake and exhaust ports. Look at them, you will see how mismatched they are. An electric drill with a carbide burr will do the jop. Don't use a straight sided cutter but one that sort of bulges out in the center and has a ball nose end. Probably about a 3/8" max diameter cutter will be fine. A lot easier to do a nice job with. Also use WD40 as a lubercant for the proting work. Pay attention to the direction of the rods and rod caps and the pistons. Don't interchange anything. The cap that comes off a rod goes back on that rod. Oil all surfaces and bearings upon assembly, you don't want them to start out dry. Don't worry about your cam timing, just take it apart. If your not sure when your ready to reassemble the cams into the head and install the timing belt, give me a call. Keep track of what shims, just under the cam lifter lobes, come out from what position. You will want to put them back in the same locations. Best is to check valve clearance and adjust as necessary but that is hard to do as you don't adjust it but replace the shims with shims of a different thickness. The shims are hard to find unless Jarrad has some.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This ought to relieve your worries and it sure made my job a lot easier, hey snow man, are all the oil pans glued on with silicone, I've often thought that my rig was one that was returned or something.

All the previous pictures will have a broken picture symbol because I deleted the album and started over because everything was out of order, but only the last few mattered plus I gave them all a new name.

Any way, it's out and on the table, tomorrow the head comes off, as soon as I read up on how to release the tension on the timing belt. probably in the manual, but if someone wants to post it, I'll read it.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

Oh ye, check the last 4 photo for my timing resetting trick.

I may have a problem, I was planning on NOT pulling the pulley of the end of the crank shaft if I don't have to. Is there a way to remove the tension on the timing belt with out pulling the pulley and lower half of the timing belt cover?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Randy Stevens
      Hey all, I bought a Hisun 550 back in June of 2019. After 6 weeks of ownership, this machine took to sputtering when started and under power. I checked everything I could think of before I took it back to place of purchase....(rural king), since it had a one year warranty.   They kept it almost two months stating they were waiting to get info from Hisun to rectify the issue (supposedly faulty drivers seat belt). I was told by the tech that they replace seat belt harness and cured the problem. It did! Ran just fine again for almost a year and now the very same issue has returned. After doing a little investigating on my own, I noticed that rural king did not replace the seat belt harness at all.  The wires to seat belt connector was cut and spliced and taped back together. Now I’m not real sure what the real problem is as that tech is no longer with company and can’t seem to locate the past work order for my machine.  Hisun customer service is non existent . I’m on my own and begging for help. Im mechanically inclined but if this is an electricical issue, I’m screwed! No warranty left. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
    • By dant849
      This looks to be a pretty common topic and I've had issues with mine overheating since I got it back around the end of 2019. Started running hot again, thermostat was not opening and they sent me a new one. Installed that, burped the system for air all to no avail. Next in line is the water pump to replace, they sent me a water pump and when I got the old one off it was not turning freely to say the least so I'm thinking that could have been my problem. My issue now is getting the slot in the water pump shaft to line up with the tab inside the engine of the machine. Any tricks to doing this? Thanks in advance
    • By j.fulciniti
      Hello Folks - newbie here with my first post so go easy on me.  I picked up a Buck 400 in May 2020 direct from Massimo when they were doing a closeout sale on the 400 models.  I read the reviews and was skeptical. 
      We live in a golf cart community  we do not plan any off roading - just some very mild work tasks like hauling firewood / brush etc.  Honestly, all we do is cruise around our neighborhood roads.  I pulled the trigger b/c the price was cheaper than a 2WD lifted golf cart and the Buck  had way more features.
      We have a few steep hills and after about 20 - 30 minutes of cruising, my check engine light comes on.  It only happens when we are going up or down one of the hills .  We head straight home and things seem fine the next day.  Light never comes on unless we tackle multiple hills during one ride.
      Should I be worried?  
      PS - Unit is 4 months old and has 258 miles on it - barely broken in.  I've yet to go full throttle on a flat or up a hill. 
    • By Travis
      I've noticed the  Massimo MSU-500, The Cub Cadet Challenger 500 (550?) and the Benneche Bighorn 500 all look the same?  Does one company make them and they just put their name on them?
       
           


×
×
  • Create New...