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Gumball

TROOPER PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

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Hello all,

What tricks, if any, do you use to adjust the Trooper parking brake. Mine never has worked and it's such an odd arrangement I thought one of you might have some easy way to do the deed.

Thanks in advance,

Gumball

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I am changing mine over to turning brakes, like you find on a sandrail, & adding a micro-lock on the brake system. I agree, mine has never worked except when I didn't want it to.

rocmoc n AZ

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Hello all,

What tricks, if any, do you use to adjust the Trooper parking brake. Mine never has worked and it's such an odd arrangement I thought one of you might have some easy way to do the deed.

Thanks in advance,

Gumball

Hi Gumball

In my experience the biggest issue with the park brake is the linkage. There is no return spring to pull the lever with the push- rod back out of the hydraulic cylinder. This prevents the piston from returning to the end of the cylinder and opening the port to allow more fluid to enter. Most of the time this causes the park brake to drag until the pads are worn. Also there is no boot on cylinder push rod, so check that there is no dirt holding the piston up. I have installed a return spring on the linkage near the cable end, and over to the master cylinder mount bracket. this seems to take care of the issue and should make ajusting easier.

Hope this helps

Mudsllinger (Trevor)

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Hi Mudslinger,

Thank you for the information. I think you are spot on with the wear. My pads went away right away and the brakes seemed to be always on. I will do as you suggested and attach a spring to the actuating arm. How to you go about bleeding the lines? It appears that you use the time honored method if having someone apply the brakes while you open the line.

Thanks again,

Gumball

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Hi Mudslinger,

Thank you for the information. I think you are spot on with the wear. My pads went away right away and the brakes seemed to be always on. I will do as you suggested and attach a spring to the actuating arm. How to you go about bleeding the lines? It appears that you use the time honored method if having someone apply the brakes while you open the line.

Thanks again,

Gumball

Gumball, The easiest way to bleed the system is to use a vacuum brake bleeder system, and draw the fluid out the caliper bleed valve. The way you mentioned will work, but can be very time consuming and very frustrating.

The only reason you should have to bleed the system is if you have a leak or the lines wear removed. If the piston is returning all the way it should allow the fluid to take up the ajustment.

The cable also has a thumb wheel ajuster as well, but check the linkage first GOOD LUCK

Mudslinger

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Hi Mudslinger,

I must be the dumbest Trooper owner around. Even with all the good advice I'm still stuck. I cannot find the _#&)@)&$65 adjustment nuts for the parking brake. I can't even find the cable that actuates the parking brake master cylinder. In my machine it seems to be buried between the firewall and cylinder which I can't get to without taking the cylinder bracket loose.

With all the manuals I've looked at I'm reminded of my first manual from Honda. Here's a quote that will tell you what I mean. "extreme care should be taken while rounding corners, or falling off may occur" Even that make more sense to me than what I'm finding.

You words of wisdom will be appreciated.

Gumball

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Hi Mudslinger,

I must be the dumbest Trooper owner around. Even with all the good advice I'm still stuck. I cannot find the _#&)@)&$65 adjustment nuts for the parking brake. I can't even find the cable that actuates the parking brake master cylinder. In my machine it seems to be buried between the firewall and cylinder which I can't get to without taking the cylinder bracket loose.

With all the manuals I've looked at I'm reminded of my first manual from Honda. Here's a quote that will tell you what I mean. "extreme care should be taken while rounding corners, or falling off may occur" Even that make more sense to me than what I'm finding.

You words of wisdom will be appreciated.

Gumball

No problem, I think you are looking in the wrong spot. The master cylinder for the park brake system is under the engine intake manifold and the cable comes off the back of the park brake handle. I have a unit in my shop with the center council removed and the before mentioned return spring installed, I well try to attach some pics for you.

Mudslinger

post-901-0-55963500-1298835323_thumb.jpg

post-901-0-38101800-1298835348_thumb.jpg

post-901-0-85384500-1298835366_thumb.jpg

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Hiya,

That's another one I owe you. Us old guys sometime have whats called a "mind fart". or senior moment, if you're in mixed company. I went out and bought a brake bleeder tool that I can attach to my air compressor. One way or another I'll get the job done.

Gumball

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I believe there is also an adjustment on the rod going into the master under the engine. It has been a while since I backed my off.

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I ruined a set of brake pads on mine by always driving with the E brake on, so I epoxied a magnet to the handle and put a magnetic switch, electronic of course, Hall Effect device, on the console and a light on dash to tell me when I'm being stupid.

Jeff

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I ruined a set of brake pads on mine by always driving with the E brake on, so I epoxied a magnet to the handle and put a magnetic switch, electronic of course, Hall Effect device, on the console and a light on dash to tell me when I'm being stupid.

Jeff

Well, you are lot smarter than me,, I would have to have 1 with me all the time,to tell me I'm stupid!!!! lol

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Just added a bungy cord set up to pull the parking brake plunger back forward and now when I pull on the handle, it sets the brakes with only an inch or two of movement.

Good info,

Jeff

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