Quantcast
Jump to content


Differential issue


Tinman

Recommended Posts

Well, while I wait for the new rear driveshaft, I decided to shim my rear diff with the ebay shim kit. All went well except for:

#1: One of the four spherical shims behind the spider gears was deeply scored. Anyone know if getting another one is even possible? Keep in mind that these shims keep the spider gears lined up with the drive gear. Any wear means a widening gap, leading to gear wear. I've upped the oil to a heavier grade, and will be drilling a larger oil hole in place of the 1/4" one there now.

I figure cutting a new shim out of shimstock and using the spider gear to shape it would probably work, but I'd still prefer to buy a new one. Likely that is near impossible.

#2 is minor: The 12 replacement nuts that lock the ring gear on interfere with the teeth. Buy 12 lockwashers before doing this mod. You also need a vernier or 1" mike, plus feeler guages, plus a bearing puller (with at least 3.5" clearance) to complete this job.

That's about it. Now for the front diff...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

You should be able to reflaten the existing washer if it's not completely destroyed. Rocmoc and I did that to one of his and it worked fine. Your right about using the spider gear and the inside of the cage to reform the washer or form a new one.. That is what we did. You won't find a replacement. If you make a new one, shimstock is usually hardened and won't shape nor provide the correct bearing surface. If it's soft your ok. It should be a soft steel, even cold rolled sheet should work fine, bearing brass would be great.

The 12 nuts shouldn't interfer with the ring gear teeth even though they are very close. The pinion gear shouldn't hit them either. I'm not going to say that it is impossible but we haven't yet had any problems. The lock washers should be fine but just make sure that everything clears when the gear is turning. Also be sure to still use the loc-tite because the lock washers won't be able to dig in to the hardened surface very well. Make sure things are super clean for the loc-tite to hold properly and get the bolts good and tight. When I do them, I get them as tight as I can, any more would strip the hex head out. Also use a good quality hex wrench or it will just round the end.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

I don't recommend not using the nuts Use the nuts, don't cut corners. Get every bit of extra security you can. With the nuts, you cut the chance of the bolts ever loosening by 50%.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to replace one of the spider shims also and was lucky enough to find a perfect replacement at a local drive line shop, He thought they came out of a toyota rear end.

I didn't bother with the lock nuts, just used lock tite.

Kinarfi

I figure you know this question is coming, but I'll ask it anyway in the hopes you might know but forgot to mention it:

What model Toyota was it? This is a pretty important part...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tinman, sorry looked once before and I don't have any spare spider gear washers. Most everything else. Will be looking today.

The washer that Lenny fixed was in one of my nearly new, unsed spare diffs. They messed it up at the factory in one of the upgraded diffs with the clips on the bolts. The washer may not have been fixable if it had be used on the ground for a while.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

I guess I'll go ahead and order stuff for making another batch of diff upgrade kit. Probably take another month yet before I'll have any to ship out. I'll send everyone a PM when there ready. Tinman, I do know that the nuts do contact the very edge of the ring gear teeth and I do knpw that it is a bit of a pain to get them tight. I always use a smallish but top quality 1/2" open end wrench to do the job. The 1/2" wrench fits real tight on the nut and gives you a better chance of getting it real tight. Anyway, I'm going to try and find narrower nuts this time. I'll have to look harder because I couldn't find them before. It would be nicer to be able to put a socket over them to tighten.Being an 8mm x 1mm makes the thread size not real common and that is where the problem is. the more common is the 8mm x 1.25mm. Thanksfor your input.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh, so the kits come from you!

Great stuff, and nice instructions. I did use the 1/2 inch wrench for the reason you mentioned. The lockwashers worked fine though and with no clearance issues.

Now if we could only find out what Toyota Kinarfi got those spherical bearing washers from...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

Sent you a PM.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By WCF
      Hi Joyner Gang
      New to the Joyner group. I'm making long travel for the 1100 Sand viper. I'm trying to make something that will work as well or even better than the RZR Rino etc. At this time the front has 14" travel rear has 16" of travel. Still developing the suspension. comets are welcome. Ask questions and I will get back to the Forum 
       
      ?
       
       

       
       

       


    • By Paul Angstadt
      Hi everybody. I just bought a 2012 Hisun with the 700cc engine. Was wondering where i could find a service manual for this thing?
      Its going to need some parts that are missing, like the air intake hoses and other things. Also the dash display is out. the only light that works is neutral light. Not even sure on the model. from pics I've seen, it looks like an HS700. Kind of grey with the black stripes on the hood. Just hoping i can find parts for it.
      Thank you for any advice you can give me. By the way, it does run and goes forward and reverse.
      Paul
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By KidColeman
      Hi All,
      Just picked  up a 2020 UT400 that my 80 year old father will be driving around the farm.  We purchased the machine with a few "issues" and they lowered the price accordingly.  Small stuff like passenger size mirror and back reflector was torn off by a Tractor supply employee, which we will order replacements for.  Also after further inspection, whoever assembled it did not put a few bolts in the rollcage and aren't in the glovebox, so will be having to order those also.
      Anyway, there are two initial things on the UT400 I'm not sure what they are or for.  The first, there is a square white electrical connector with about 8 pins hanging form under the middle of the back bed - I don't see another one to match up or plug into it, so wondering if this is pre installed optional connection for like towing around a sprayer?  Anyone know what this is?  Also, there is a 10 inch black rubber hose that is zip tied to the back A frame on the passenger side.  I watched the assembly video and it doesn't mention one, so don't know what this hose is for - anyone know?
      Also, has anyone come up with a "fix" or work around for having to have the seatbelts plugged in or even in place?  We aren't planning on using them and are figuring just plugging them in and wedging them behind the seats - didn't know if there is a way to just disconnect the "over 10mph gas starving" safety sensor.
      Looking forward to seeing how this machine does for my father.   I'm thinking about installing a suicide knob on it for easier turning for him, as it's a little stiff (compared to our Kawasaki Mule).  Maybe with use it will loosen up some?
      Thanks!
    • Sell your car with CarBrain
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing.
      Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield.
      Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?
×
×
  • Create New...