Quantcast
Jump to content

Differential issue


Tinman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well, while I wait for the new rear driveshaft, I decided to shim my rear diff with the ebay shim kit. All went well except for:

#1: One of the four spherical shims behind the spider gears was deeply scored. Anyone know if getting another one is even possible? Keep in mind that these shims keep the spider gears lined up with the drive gear. Any wear means a widening gap, leading to gear wear. I've upped the oil to a heavier grade, and will be drilling a larger oil hole in place of the 1/4" one there now.

I figure cutting a new shim out of shimstock and using the spider gear to shape it would probably work, but I'd still prefer to buy a new one. Likely that is near impossible.

#2 is minor: The 12 replacement nuts that lock the ring gear on interfere with the teeth. Buy 12 lockwashers before doing this mod. You also need a vernier or 1" mike, plus feeler guages, plus a bearing puller (with at least 3.5" clearance) to complete this job.

That's about it. Now for the front diff...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be able to reflaten the existing washer if it's not completely destroyed. Rocmoc and I did that to one of his and it worked fine. Your right about using the spider gear and the inside of the cage to reform the washer or form a new one.. That is what we did. You won't find a replacement. If you make a new one, shimstock is usually hardened and won't shape nor provide the correct bearing surface. If it's soft your ok. It should be a soft steel, even cold rolled sheet should work fine, bearing brass would be great.

The 12 nuts shouldn't interfer with the ring gear teeth even though they are very close. The pinion gear shouldn't hit them either. I'm not going to say that it is impossible but we haven't yet had any problems. The lock washers should be fine but just make sure that everything clears when the gear is turning. Also be sure to still use the loc-tite because the lock washers won't be able to dig in to the hardened surface very well. Make sure things are super clean for the loc-tite to hold properly and get the bolts good and tight. When I do them, I get them as tight as I can, any more would strip the hex head out. Also use a good quality hex wrench or it will just round the end.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to replace one of the spider shims also and was lucky enough to find a perfect replacement at a local drive line shop, He thought they came out of a toyota rear end.

I didn't bother with the lock nuts, just used lock tite.

Kinarfi

I figure you know this question is coming, but I'll ask it anyway in the hopes you might know but forgot to mention it:

What model Toyota was it? This is a pretty important part...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tinman, sorry looked once before and I don't have any spare spider gear washers. Most everything else. Will be looking today.

The washer that Lenny fixed was in one of my nearly new, unsed spare diffs. They messed it up at the factory in one of the upgraded diffs with the clips on the bolts. The washer may not have been fixable if it had be used on the ground for a while.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

I guess I'll go ahead and order stuff for making another batch of diff upgrade kit. Probably take another month yet before I'll have any to ship out. I'll send everyone a PM when there ready. Tinman, I do know that the nuts do contact the very edge of the ring gear teeth and I do knpw that it is a bit of a pain to get them tight. I always use a smallish but top quality 1/2" open end wrench to do the job. The 1/2" wrench fits real tight on the nut and gives you a better chance of getting it real tight. Anyway, I'm going to try and find narrower nuts this time. I'll have to look harder because I couldn't find them before. It would be nicer to be able to put a socket over them to tighten.Being an 8mm x 1mm makes the thread size not real common and that is where the problem is. the more common is the 8mm x 1.25mm. Thanksfor your input.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh, so the kits come from you!

Great stuff, and nice instructions. I did use the 1/2 inch wrench for the reason you mentioned. The lockwashers worked fine though and with no clearance issues.

Now if we could only find out what Toyota Kinarfi got those spherical bearing washers from...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

Sent you a PM.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Steve Vanvelzen
      I Recently purchased a Massimo T-Boss 550F last fall with their 60" snow thrower because I couldn't find a decent UTV here in Southern Ontario; nothing in stock anywhere. I am having really bad buyer's remorse after spending time on it and reading all the bad online reviews. The company boasts the fact that it is built in Texas, USA, so I was hoping to do the right thing by buying, "Made In North America" but it is still Chinese Junk, assembled in the USA. and I am starting to realize that I am going to have a lot of difficulty getting parts for this thing; I can't even get an oil filter, finally bought a "Hisun" filter and hope it fits. i busted the shear pins in the snow thrower and can't find replacements for that either. The thing is so hard to change gears most of the time; I am terrified I am going to wreck something. The place I purchased it from is absolutely useless. Can I adjust something myself? Anyone out there have this problem and have some advice (besides selling it and buying a good brand)?
    • By pchow
      This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).

      Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
      Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.
       



    • By 2018TEXTRONHL
      Looking for the truck bed components 2018 Textron 900 Stampede.  There is limited information available for the assembly.  Might need a parts list.
       
      Tim
    • By Hisun .500
      So my hisun 500 is tore up and all the wiring is wasted i was wondering can i pull out all the wiring and just put in the. Basics .please help
    • eManualOnline
    • By rangerstein
      The middle two tires on 6x6 are spinning. the drive shaft from middle to rear is spinning and the shaft from middle to front is spinning. I have the entire thing jacked up. When I first start it both middle tires will spin and the front two will spin for about 10 seconds. the rear tires do nothing. I can spin the rears wheels both forward or backwards at same time or one forward and one backward and vise versa. Is this normal. Do I have a rear differential broke or is something not engaging the shaft to the gears in the back. Would somebody please tell me how all the drive system works together so I can find something to fix of replace.
  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...