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Differential issue


Tinman

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Well, while I wait for the new rear driveshaft, I decided to shim my rear diff with the ebay shim kit. All went well except for:

#1: One of the four spherical shims behind the spider gears was deeply scored. Anyone know if getting another one is even possible? Keep in mind that these shims keep the spider gears lined up with the drive gear. Any wear means a widening gap, leading to gear wear. I've upped the oil to a heavier grade, and will be drilling a larger oil hole in place of the 1/4" one there now.

I figure cutting a new shim out of shimstock and using the spider gear to shape it would probably work, but I'd still prefer to buy a new one. Likely that is near impossible.

#2 is minor: The 12 replacement nuts that lock the ring gear on interfere with the teeth. Buy 12 lockwashers before doing this mod. You also need a vernier or 1" mike, plus feeler guages, plus a bearing puller (with at least 3.5" clearance) to complete this job.

That's about it. Now for the front diff...

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Guest Lenny

You should be able to reflaten the existing washer if it's not completely destroyed. Rocmoc and I did that to one of his and it worked fine. Your right about using the spider gear and the inside of the cage to reform the washer or form a new one.. That is what we did. You won't find a replacement. If you make a new one, shimstock is usually hardened and won't shape nor provide the correct bearing surface. If it's soft your ok. It should be a soft steel, even cold rolled sheet should work fine, bearing brass would be great.

The 12 nuts shouldn't interfer with the ring gear teeth even though they are very close. The pinion gear shouldn't hit them either. I'm not going to say that it is impossible but we haven't yet had any problems. The lock washers should be fine but just make sure that everything clears when the gear is turning. Also be sure to still use the loc-tite because the lock washers won't be able to dig in to the hardened surface very well. Make sure things are super clean for the loc-tite to hold properly and get the bolts good and tight. When I do them, I get them as tight as I can, any more would strip the hex head out. Also use a good quality hex wrench or it will just round the end.

Lenny

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Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

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Guest Lenny

I don't recommend not using the nuts Use the nuts, don't cut corners. Get every bit of extra security you can. With the nuts, you cut the chance of the bolts ever loosening by 50%.

Lenny

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I had to replace one of the spider shims also and was lucky enough to find a perfect replacement at a local drive line shop, He thought they came out of a toyota rear end.

I didn't bother with the lock nuts, just used lock tite.

Kinarfi

I figure you know this question is coming, but I'll ask it anyway in the hopes you might know but forgot to mention it:

What model Toyota was it? This is a pretty important part...

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If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

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Tinman, sorry looked once before and I don't have any spare spider gear washers. Most everything else. Will be looking today.

The washer that Lenny fixed was in one of my nearly new, unsed spare diffs. They messed it up at the factory in one of the upgraded diffs with the clips on the bolts. The washer may not have been fixable if it had be used on the ground for a while.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Guest Lenny

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

I guess I'll go ahead and order stuff for making another batch of diff upgrade kit. Probably take another month yet before I'll have any to ship out. I'll send everyone a PM when there ready. Tinman, I do know that the nuts do contact the very edge of the ring gear teeth and I do knpw that it is a bit of a pain to get them tight. I always use a smallish but top quality 1/2" open end wrench to do the job. The 1/2" wrench fits real tight on the nut and gives you a better chance of getting it real tight. Anyway, I'm going to try and find narrower nuts this time. I'll have to look harder because I couldn't find them before. It would be nicer to be able to put a socket over them to tighten.Being an 8mm x 1mm makes the thread size not real common and that is where the problem is. the more common is the 8mm x 1.25mm. Thanksfor your input.

Lenny

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Ahhh, so the kits come from you!

Great stuff, and nice instructions. I did use the 1/2 inch wrench for the reason you mentioned. The lockwashers worked fine though and with no clearance issues.

Now if we could only find out what Toyota Kinarfi got those spherical bearing washers from...

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If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

Sent you a PM.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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