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I'm thinking I'm not too into the tube trunk thing above the engine on the trooper so I'm considering building a pick up box for the trooper something like the polaris ranger have. I think it would make a unique trooper what do you guys think?

Have it been done?

yes it has. There was one on craigslist not to long ago. They had a box off a commando on it.

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Here's what I did, works great for me and the wife, got another box up front too. Carries the jack, saws, blanket, sweat shirts, paper towels, wipees, my canes, emergency and some other stuff. Bought a couple sheets of Coraplast to make it out of, it's lasted 2 years so far.

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Kinarfi that's a nice box i was thinking about whole box instead, ricksrb i never saw that trooper with commando box on it but i googled up commando and saw box it looks good but i want barely bigger box but the tail lights would be mounted the same location as commando box but more recessed in the box to protect the taillights because i broke one already

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  • 2 months later...

I finally broke down and went bought an plasma cutter and borrowed my buddy's miller welder and used my old fuel tank standing frame for outdoor that been sitting in grasses. Anyways i got started on the basic frame work.

Its planned to be 51 inch wide and 42 inch long and about 16 inch tall not sure about height completely yet though

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I also decided to go with a pickup box. Should be done today so I'll post pics. I wanted to have more room for my dogs to ride especially when I take extra water and survival stuff with me on remote rides.. I had forgotten that nocturnalsixer had thrown out the idea some time back so I can't take credit for any original thinking. Maybe at the next Jamboree, the two of us can carry extra food and tents and camping gear so we can get really in deep. Now all we need is someone to make a tanker trooper to carry a couple hundred gallons of gas.

Lenny

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Lol lenny, are you doing tailgate also? How big will your box be?

I have one or two ideas on that...might be removable or hinged. I just got up so I'm relaxing before i go back in garage and clean up metal etc then go town get sheet metal and lay it on the skeleton then black sand blast it and clean then paint it and also its going to tilt like stock hood to make unloading much easier

Also I'm going to leave lip on top of inside the box for few reasons...... #1 Tie down points and #2 a great surface for me to lean on and rest arms on same time and #3 hopefully help keep stuff inside box.

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Box is 55" wide by 43" long and about 10-1/2" deep all inside dimensions. Yes I have built a hinged tail gate that opens like a pickup does. When the tailgate is open, my bed length extends to about 57". I didn't make the box to swing up like in dump mode. I did however make mine so I can remove it in about 10 seconds literally. It's also quite lite weighing in at 53 pounds. I have an aluminum frame with stained cedar board floor and siding. I wanted the look of the old wood sided pickup truck. I have tie down loops welded to the vertical aluminum post. As far as holding things in, rocmoc said he would ride back there to hold things in when I go thru the woops.

Lenny

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Rocmoc riding in back lol i hope you got a crash seat for him to strap in at least.

I'm curious how you did tailgate i still am stumped on that and also I'm trying to decide on taillights if i want use the original mounted recessed into the box or different one completely

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Tail lights, go LED, http://good-times.we...104282158MVvWow I also have 10w LED back up lights that really really work good.

Very nice set up the back up lights for some reason look reddish to me in video...is it actually white?

I was actually kicking around led trailer taillights probably more slimmer one but not sure yet.

Did u needed to add any resistor inline to make leds work?

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Those were white lights, but there gone now, the ones I have now are only 1" in diameter and several times brighter than the ones in the video. To get the tail lights to blink like mine do, you need to ad a circuit to the lights,(exclusive or gate), it's the next 2 pictures after the video, I'll try to remember to get a photo of the backup lights if you want.

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My progress so far...sheet metal is impossible to find anywhere on weekend i guess i should had planned ahead but at least i can get precut premeasured sheet metal and just weld it in place

I had been running all over cities (few) looking for sheet metal so not much got done... I plan on finishing mounts and brackets for front secure down the box/old hood then metal hinge legs for the rear hinges to tilt the box then another little legs bracket to hold hydraulic strut on to the box so it can be assisted tilt like stock hood.

Then the whole taillight assembly will be removed it interferes with operation of the box tilt.

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Those were white lights, but there gone now, the ones I have now are only 1" in diameter and several times brighter than the ones in the video. To get the tail lights to blink like mine do, you need to ad a circuit to the lights,(exclusive or gate), it's the next 2 pictures after the video, I'll try to remember to get a photo of the backup lights if you want.

How much brighter are those new back up lights? I want something like spotlights on back of my "brute trooper"

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"Brute trooper" everyone might ask why...because my trooper don't look pretty and get the job done and its no trailer queen i put 1500 miles in only 3-4 months and used it for pulling a lot of heavy metal and my full size 4x4 and small trailers it keep impressing nee

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How much brighter are those new back up lights? I want something like spotlights on back of my "brute trooper"

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here's a couple of videos and some photo, taken during the daytime, morning hours, but look at the guy in green shirt as the light comes on and off.

http://good-times.we...104282158zLPKMA

http://good-times.we...104282158kcUwDd

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not sure the camera does justice, Samsung Galaxy, probably over corrected for the brightness.

Also,the last two in the series are how I changed my bed hold downs after they original loop broke. I tapped the holes in the round piece for 1/4-20 and the catch is a piece of 3/4 L with a nail welded to the edge

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Got my pictures for you guys to look at. The frame is all aluminum and the wood is plained down cedar fencing slats from Home Depot. I plained it down to about .400" thick to smooth the surface and eliminate some weight. The whole assemble weighs 53 pounds. You will see one picture showing a tab sticking up from the frame behind the seats. there are two of these, one on each side. The box has two 3/4" tapered pins on the front of its frame which slide into these tabs. This is what holds the front of the box securly in place. The pins are tapered so that they slide in until they wedge tight in the holes so there is no play to cause rattling. The rear of the box is held down and slightly forward into the pins by the original toggle type draw clamps that were used to hold down the front of the original deck. The front panel of the box is slotted so I don't have to remove the intake filter to get the box off. This slot uses a velcroed foam pad that seals off the slot from the front. All wood is screwed down along with construction adhesive being used at all joints between wood members and also wood to frame. The counter sunk washers used under the screws are hollowed out on the under side so that the outer edge of the washer digs into the wood capturing the wood around the hole preventing it from spliting as easily happens when just using screws. The surplus tail gate chain stores in the hollow aluminum vertical corner post. The post has a slot down its back top side to slide a link into at what ever length is needed. I can remove the box in literally 10 seconds. I wanted to be able to remove the box quickly in case of fire so I can get at the engine comparment fast. I had one fire already and nearly didn't get it out because I couldn't get at it. There are 17 pictures in all so click thru them.

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Lenny

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