Now this is weird...T2 1100 throttle issues

[Tinman]

Any of you heard of this?

I've had rough throttle issues for a while, so I worked it out to a plugged carbon canister. Stomping on the gas, especially after filling up usually resulted in a coughing and spitting engine. Unhooked to vent hose from the canister coming up from the gas tank and problem is solved.

After two days of no problems, I have this and it has me stumped big time.

Driving home at 100 kms/hour, I filled up. It starts raining. When I hit 3500 rpm in 5th gear, the engine misfires repeatedly. If I let go of the throttle to below 3500, its fine. Does this consistently. It acts as if there's a rev limiter.

So I played around. dropped it into fourth, and I could do 4500 rpm, but then misfires. It seemed that if I hit 60 kms/h, it misfires.

I should ad that before this issue started I heard a loud click.

Any idea?

I can't even begin to wrap my head around this one...

[SD 2009 Trooper]

I had the same thing happen with my car, in 4th & 5th it would miss fire at 4000 rpm. But in 1st gear I could tach of 6000 rpm with no miss fire. I had some friends say it was the sparks plugs. I didn't think it was the plugs, they only had 30,000 miles on them. I change the plugs and wires and everything was fixed. Maybe this will help.

Good luck

[Guest Lenny]

Sounds like ignition problems to me too. Then again, bad valves could also do that. Do a compression check. 150 to 160 pounds

Lenny

[Tinman]

Thanks guys. Did anyone buy aftermarket cables for their T2, or go OEM? I only have 7000 miles on mine, so I'm surprised it can be the cables.

A friend of mine has a compression gauge. I'll ask him to check it. But the problem does go away intermittently, then comes back, so I'm guessing its not that.

[rocmoc]

Change out the fuel filter. Could have sucked up some cr*p when you got fuel last. Cheap easy check except the darn size of one of the hoses. Starving for fuel when you reach the higher rpm. Also check fuel pressure, possible fuel pump starting to fail. It can be a fuel issue as well as electrical.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Tinman]

]Thanks Rocmoc,

Gauge reads a constant 45 psi, new bosch fuel pump, new fuel filter. I'll try wires first, as that seems the most likely. OEM or aftermarket wires?

[rocmoc]

Personally I would be shocked if the plug wires have gone bad. If you have air, blow the fuel line backwards into the tank. Maybe you pumped something that is sitting on the tank outlet. Don't blow thu the fuel pump. You can have the correct fuel pressure at static load as the pressure will build even if a line or filter is partially plugged. I am still leaning towards fuel problem as it started happening just after you got fuel. Also you would get more rpms with the same fuel available in a lower gear. Fuel starvation is my guess! Maybe bad fuel! Had the same thing happen with my weedeater after sitting all winter and the fuel went bad. Would start but not get RPMs and popped. Thought I would have to replace a fouled plug after running the bad fuel but took a chance and changed out the gas first. After a couple of minutes weedeater was back to form.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[rocmoc]

]Thanks Rocmoc,

Gauge reads a constant 45 psi, new bosch fuel pump, new fuel filter. I'll try wires first, as that seems the most likely. OEM or aftermarket wires?

Under load? Need to see what it is doing when you start having your problem at the higher rpm. Kind of hard to do!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Tinman]

That's a good idea Rocmoc. I thought of maybe water in the gas, but dirt plugging the inlet might be it too.

I don't know what you mean about testing the pump under pressure - at full throttle, the gas pressure gauge reads a constant 45 PSI.

[Tinman]

Oh, and my sending unit is at the regulator.

[rocmoc]

What I meant is the engine under load using max or most of the fuel that is available. If the line, pump, filter or tank oulet is partially clogged, you will use the fuel that has built up under pressure from the static condition and will start starving the engine for fuel the longer the engine is ran at the higher RPMs & demand. The pump cannot keep up with demand except when at idle because of the lower fuel demand. Same happened when the floats were set to low on carbs, would not be enough fuel in the bowl or thu the needle & seat to keep up with demand. Of course I could be all wrong, LOL! These engines are a lot less forgiving.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

[Tinman]

Ahhh. Wouldn't the pressure go down on the gauge if there was less fuel?

In any case, I've been battleing with a bigger problem - my new 16 inch cyclone rad fan called it quits yesterday. Sheesh. Trying to find a replacement rad fan motor, or just a decent rad fan assembly I can count on...

[ricksrb]

Any of you heard of this?

I've had rough throttle issues for a while, so I worked it out to a plugged carbon canister. Stomping on the gas, especially after filling up usually resulted in a coughing and spitting engine. Unhooked to vent hose from the canister coming up from the gas tank and problem is solved.

After two days of no problems, I have this and it has me stumped big time.

Driving home at 100 kms/hour, I filled up. It starts raining. When I hit 3500 rpm in 5th gear, the engine misfires repeatedly. If I let go of the throttle to below 3500, its fine. Does this consistently. It acts as if there's a rev limiter.

So I played around. dropped it into fourth, and I could do 4500 rpm, but then misfires. It seemed that if I hit 60 kms/h, it misfires.

I should ad that before this issue started I heard a loud click.

Any idea?

I can't even begin to wrap my head around this one...

I had a simular problem shortly after i bought mine. Would do fine for a while then in 4th or 5th gear would start missing real bad. I would down shift and she would do just fine. shift up to next gear and would be okay for a while then end up down shifting. I tried to find my old posts about it but no luck. I changed the filter,fuel lines,pulled the fuel tank out twice and cleaned it, changed spark plugs,wires and cant remember what else but nothing worked. I got a good price on a new ECU so i decided to try that and have had no problems since.

[Tinman]

That's what I fear the most. I hope it's not the ECU. The problem hasn't come back, but it hasn't rained either...

[ricksrb]

That's what I fear the most. I hope it's not the ECU. The problem hasn't come back, but it hasn't rained either...

my problem was happening in dry weather. Good luck.

[charlie]

My ECM is in a freezer bag bolted in stock location man that sux sorry to hear it

[Tinman]

Yeah Charlie,

I took mine apart about 6 months ago, siliconed it so it's waterproof, so I'm pretty sure there's no water in there. Would have been nice to be able to check trouble codes. Maybe joyner will one day implement that...

On an aside,

MASTER SWITCH: Nearly shorted everything out while monkeying with a temporary rad fan motor. On the negative side of the master switch, I connected all the wires I had removed, but one of the large connectors touched the mount where the switch bolts to and shorted out big time. No permanent damage though.

The mount was designed wrong and any movement in the cables can cause a short, just so you guys know. It will short anything down the path of least resistance, which may or may not be an electrical wire.

[charlie]

Movement In the cables?? Locker cables??

[Tinman]

Just a headsup. Problem has not returned. I sealed the wires with silicone, but I'm not sure it's this. All i Know is that I've done about 500k and nothing since...

[silverbullet]

silverbullet

Fuel pressure should be 50 psi.On the older troopers they put fuel pump after the fuel filter.It should be pump filter and pressure regulator.Switch the fuel filter after fuel pump.It makes the pump run cooler & last longer.

Thanks Matt

[Kinarfi]

Yeah Charlie,

I took mine apart about 6 months ago, siliconed it so it's waterproof, so I'm pretty sure there's no water in there. Would have been nice to be able to check trouble codes. Maybe joyner will one day implement that...

On an aside,

MASTER SWITCH: Nearly shorted everything out while monkeying with a temporary rad fan motor. On the negative side of the master switch, I connected all the wires I had removed, but one of the large connectors touched the mount where the switch bolts to and shorted out big time. No permanent damage though.

The mount was designed wrong and any movement in the cables can cause a short, just so you guys know. It will short anything down the path of least resistance, which may or may not be an electrical wire.

This little statement has always bugged me, electricity takes every possible available, not just the path of least resistance, but all paths!