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By Alex
This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
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By res2fr
I have an issue and I'm hoping that someone can help with a little Wisdom. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU500 UTV that blew a time chain while out riding. It has been torn down to replave the chain and Sprocket amount other things that will be renewed. The problem comes in with setting Top Dead Center on the motor. The Manuals all teel one to line up hash marks on the flywheel with a point on the side cover under what's referred to in several place as a manhole cover. Its a large headed cap/bolt that unscrews and allows you to view the edge of the flywheel. There are hash marks on the flywheel that your supposed to turn the crank until you get the proper alignment between a certain hash mark and a reference point on the Case. Problem is there is NO reference point on the case there. I also have another 2016 MSU500 and a 2014 Coleman 500. Not one of these machines have a reference mark of any kind in that location. (I have pictures if needed)
I know I can use the old pull the valve covers and rotate the crank and rely on getting the right point where Both Intake and Exhaust valves are closed at hopefully the correct point in the piston stroke. Is there any other reference point that could be used for this or is this the only thing left to use for finding TDC? Gotta Love documentation that doesn't match the equipment it's supposed to be for, any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if just to tell me that's about my only option.
Thanks to all who even take the time to read my rambling question.
Robert
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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By rsar
Just got quoted $770 for my Mule's first 50 hour service. Is it just me, or does this seem insanely excessive? I was expecting something in the $350 to $500 range and thinking that even $500 would be a little high. Is dealer service really necessary at 50 hours? At this price I think I'd like to shop around for a mechanic that could do it for half the price. I don't really have the option of shoping around for a cheaper Kawasaki dealer, as there is just this one dealer a reasonable distance away (30 min). The next closest olne is 3 hours away.
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By SteveMO
Folks:
I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming). My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
I've been using a pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.
Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.
I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse. If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do. This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.
So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:
Gotta have:
2 passenger (1 row)
selectable 4wd
Power steering
Selectable gearing (not CVT)
Power-assisted dump bed
Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime. Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight. Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.
Really want:
Selectable locking diff
Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension. Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds. Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".
Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
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