Quantcast
Jump to content


Blue Smoke

steele_07

By steele_07
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

steele_07 Rookie

steele_07

Posted
Posted

What would cause blue smoke upon startup and first little bit AFTER it has sat for a few hours AFTER being ran and warmed up.  It doesn't smoke at all on the initial start up from cold.  I drive it approximately a mile first thing of a morning and it sits for 3-4 hours, and when I start it up after that is the point at which it smokes.  It is a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 500.  

  • Like 1
Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

I would say it's burning oil since it's blue smoke. But how you described it, after the 2nd start up it only blows the smoke, that's what confuses me.

It's not Diesel is it? If it is diesel, blue smoke means your injectors are bad/going out.

 

steele_07 Rookie

steele_07

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 minutes ago, Travis said:

I would say it's burning oil since it's blue smoke. But how you described it, after the 2nd start up it only blows the smoke, that's what confuses me.

It's not Diesel is it? If it is diesel, blue smoke means your injectors are bad/going out.

 

No it's gas.  My thoughts are that the oil needs to be warm to seep past the valve seals.  The only confusing part about that is the fact that it is warm when I park it for the night, therefore it should smoke on start up in the mornings, but doesn't.  And now that I think about it, the smoke on the 2nd start up actually doesn't start, or at least isn't noticeable, for a few seconds.  Then, it will smoke for 2-3 minutes and it's gone.

Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

Hmmm,

 

4 hours ago, steele_07 said:

The only confusing part about that is the fact that it is warm when I park it for the night, therefore it should smoke on start up in the mornings, but doesn't.

Yeah, that is confusing., but it seeping past the seals, sounds likely.

 

steele_07 Rookie

steele_07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So what would be a ballpark estimate on getting those replaced.  I know I can get the parts for $9.  What would I be looking at labor wise?  I know it will vary by region, but i just need an idea.

kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't jump to a conclusion about the valve seals being the problem. Obviously they are a prime suspect, but if you're going to let a mechanic fix it...then let a qualified mechanic diagnose it also. When you tell a mechanic that you need new seals, then that's what you'll get. Even if that's not the problem. What if it's a cracked ring? Or a head gasket? 

   Have you pulled the plugs, and checked each one?

  • Like 1
Travis Grand Master

Travis

Posted
Posted

This sounds Similar to another thread on here, yet the other was a Kawi. But the smoke patterns seem the same. anyway, the problem was fuel getting into the crankcase.. MORE THAN LIKELY THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM.

 

steele_07 Rookie

steele_07

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, kenfain said:

I wouldn't jump to a conclusion about the valve seals being the problem. Obviously they are a prime suspect, but if you're going to let a mechanic fix it...then let a qualified mechanic diagnose it also. When you tell a mechanic that you need new seals, then that's what you'll get. Even if that's not the problem. What if it's a cracked ring? Or a head gasket? 

   Have you pulled the plugs, and checked each one?

That's a good point, but if you take it to any mechanic around here to diagnose, 2 seals will turn into a complete engine rebuild, new rearend, fuel pump, and tires.  

A head gasket or fuel in the crankcase would produce a different color smoke rather than blue right?

  • Like 1
kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

Yes, I can understand how some mechanics can inflate a problem. But I'm just pointing out that the proper diagnosis is everything. Just replacing suspect parts will only lead to frustration. I've been there before.

   You can certainly follow a gut feeling, and replace what you think the problem is. Leaking valve guides seems reasonable, considering the symptoms. You might get lucky. In answer to the time it takes to change out the valve seals. It should be about three hours or so. That's assuming he's pulling the head, to change them. Some people have used air pressure to hold the valve in place while changing out those seals. I've also heard of stuffing rope down in through the spark plug hole to accomplish this. It's a less invasive approach, and saves money on parts. 

 

  • Like 1
ChadSummers Newbie

ChadSummers

Posted
Posted

I have a similar situation with a Massimo 500 that I recently bought used... Didn't realize it smoked (blue) when I purchased and now notice it does so primarily under load. In low gear or running hard.... Other than that, cranks easy and runs good. Checking compression today... Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Dan B Community Regular

Dan B

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, ChadSummers said:

I have a similar situation with a Massimo 500 that I recently bought used... Didn't realize it smoked (blue) when I purchased and now notice it does so primarily under load. In low gear or running hard.... Other than that, cranks easy and runs good. Checking compression today... Any ideas?

 

Thanks

If it's blue smoke all the time (sitting at idle & while driving), it's most likely the oil control rings.  A compression test won't expose that problem.  But if the oil control rings are bad, it's likely that the compression rings are also bad (might show low compression).  If only under heavy acceleration, it's the valve stem seals.  The vacuum created under heavy acceleration can cause oil to be drawn past worn valve stem seals.  This info is from many websites on automobile engines.  ATV/UTV engines aren't much different.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • BWF
      Landmaster LM200 Will Not Start
      By BWF
      I have a 2011 or so Landmaster LM200.  I cannot get it to start.  I turn the key and nothing happens.  The brake switch seems to be working, the ignition switch works.  The Coil is new the Voltage Regulator is new and the starter relay is new.
       
      I can connect the terminals on the starter relay and it starts right up and runs fine.  I just can't get it to start by turning the key.
       
      I am having a bit of trouble bleeding the brakes, not much fluid comes out at the calipers when I am pumping the brakes, though that an air bubble near the brake switch might make it not sense that the brake pedal is depressed.
       
      I am at a loss, please help!
       
      Brad
    • fikey
      Kubota RTV520 - smoke and stall issue
      By fikey
      I am about 6 months in to owning my 520. It is used mainly to run back and forth to our barn and shop. Occasionally, I run it up and down a few fairly steep hills on the property. One day, as I was going up one of the hills, the motor started sputtering and a tremendous amount of smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I was near the top and it made it (sputtering) up. Once back on the flat, I made it home. I loaded it on the trailer and took it back to the dealer. They said they checked everything out and found no issues. Over the next month or so, I only had occasion to go up hills once or twice with no issue. Then one day, again as I was going up a hill, the engine sputtered, giant plume of white smoke and then the engine died. 30 seconds later, started up and made it to the top. Repeated the route (down and up) and the same thing happened again. Called the dealer and their head of service said he would come out and wanted to see it first hand. He came out a few days later and repeated the route several time and it never happened with him in it. I had videoed the whole thing on one of the times it happened to me, but since it happens intermittently, could not produce it when he was here. I told him that I had checked the temperature, the oil level and the antifreeze level after each occurrence and they were normal. I asked him to call Kubota and ask what the possibilities were and that I am not fond of it dying on the hill and blowing the smoke and I didn't want to wait until something catastrophic happened to figure it out. When I followed up, they had no answers (which doesn't exactly please me). Any ideas? The attached photo was the start of the smoking. Didn't know how to upload the video of the whole thing, but it fogged the whole area.

    • Jeff freeman
      Utv wont start and broken fuel injection wire
      By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


    • Rmillerdesigns
      Massimo Msu 500 Has No Power
      By Rmillerdesigns
      Hello. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU 500. I was putting on a lightbar and i screwed up and didn't disconnect the battery so when i was taking of the positive cable to put on the power from the lightbar it sparked and now the utv has no power. I turn the key over and all i hear is a chirp. No lights or anything. Everything that comes from the battery to the jumper box up by the battery shows voltage but anything coming out does not such as to the winch or anything like that
    • Andy Dickerson
      Drive shaft and spline wear on 2022 700
      By Andy Dickerson
      So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines. 
      I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there. 
      I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
      Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...