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By Mitch13
2022 Coleman 400 with 13 hours on the engine and the mice got to it. Every wire coming out of the steering column in one cluster has been eaten through. I tried reconnecting matching wire colors to each other and I get the left turn signal and hazards to work, nothing else. If I play around a bit I can get the horn to honk or headlights to come on but only when I connect them to the brown wire. Obviously I don't know what I am doing here. Does anyone have a picture of how these wires are connected when they are under the hood on the drivers side coming from the steering column?
Gray - seems to carry power
Brown - left turn signal
Green with purple stripe - hazards?
Pink with red stripe - horn?
Green - head lights?
Yellow - head lights?
Yellow with red stripe?
Blue?
Dark green?
There is also a bundle hanging under the hood not connected to anything green with yellow strip, brown and blue?
Other than that issue, I am about ready to sell this for parts if you interested let me know.
Thanks
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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By Bigmountainrider
Hi Team,
I'm new to the Forum, and I'm looking for your help. I have a 2009 Yamaha Rhino 700 that has stopped consistently charging. Here are the specs and Info I can provide, the Stator and Regulator are new. The Stator does not have continuity to ground on all 3 wires at the engine bay plug. The stator puts out 15-17AC/V at Idle and 38-39AC/V at 2000rpm at both the engine bay plug and the regulator plug. The Battery regulator plug has Battery DC Voltage, when Running the regulator puts out Charging voltage 13.4-15V. I have upgraded/added ground wires from the primary battery to the engine block, from the stock ground wire bolt on the engine to the Chassis and from the secondary battery to the regulator grounding bolt/ground wire. Now the symptoms are it Charges when first started and will continue to charge while driving or at high idle until the machine returns to idle- it will not charge after that, this includes any RPM. If your shut the machine off and restart the process restarts -it will charge until returned to idle. The Machine has and RM Stator and Regulator and a Kimpex Flywheel. The last time it was driven it had an overheating event- unrelated to charging I think, but worth the mention.
Any thoughts would be helpful, I have the factory Regulator- it was working at the time of replacement- when swapped the same issues occur.
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