Has any one replaced their radiator fan to the Massimo 410. My buck is overheating. I checked fuse which was good... then I was going to jump the fan switch and have it run all the time but its not turning on. So much for the easy fix. I guess my next step is to replace the fan. I would like to get the same fan so its easy to switch out. There isn't alot of room to work in there. So trying to make it alittle easier. Thank you kindly for your input.
Can anyone help me figure out a part number for a replacement clutch. I have an older bobcat 2200 gas UTV and I have called local UTV/ATV suppliers and they do not have what I need. I was told by one that it would be a polaris clutch but I can not find any information as to which one to order online.
By Pa Kid
I want to purchase rear support bars for a stock cage of a 2015 RZR 900 trail. Can anyone help me.
I am taking pics.
You will need -
Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/
Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15
Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.
C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.
Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the cotter key.
Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.
Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.
Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.
Remove the bearing housing.
Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.
Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.
Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.
Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.
Slide the bearing out.
That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.
Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.
rocmoc n AZ
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I just purchased a 2007 3010 Mule, and I'm checking all of the adjustments, when I noticed that when I'm in 2WD, and I push the Mule forward and backwards, that the front driveshaft always turns. Should this be happening? I would think that the front driveshaft would not rotate if the 2WD/4WD selector is in the 2WD position. Are the front wheels turning this driveshaft in this situation and it isn't actually connected to the transmission? If that is the case, does this mean that all of the axles and driveshafts from the front wheels, all the way to the rear trans-axle are always turning, even in 2WD mode?
After my lower u-joint spline wore out and start spinning (bolt was tight, but the u-joint metal is very soft), and after putting in a split pin on top to keep the upper u-joint from working its way out and causing a catastrophic accident (I drive on the highway with this thing, as well as offroad) I was thinking it's time to replace it with something more robust.
Was wondering what fixes any of you actually did for the steering system - details please.
Lenny, I know you changed it completely to one from a car, and some here have links to rack and pinions they found interesting, but was wondering if more details can be given:
Which car did you get the complete assembly from, which system has actually been tried, mods to steering arms... that sort of thing.
For now, I've put in a grade 8 bolt, tightened it so tight the slot has dissappeared, and put in a locking screw to keep things together till i fix this...