Need a Rear Driveshaft and u-joints
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By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By CarlB
I have a 2022 Hisun 750 Sector which comes with a locked rear differential. Was wondering if it would be possible to install an unlocking differential. I see that there are some Hisun made machines that come with the unlocking rear diff, such as Cub Cadet Challenger, some of the Massimos, and probably others. My concern is whether these would be a direct bolt on, using the original axles, drive shaft, and of course matching gear ratio. I've tried to match up part numbers but it seems every brand has their own number system even for parts that I know are identical. If anyone has ever done this swap or has any information about the whether these unlocking rear diffs are comparable to the Sector, I'd appreciate your input.
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By nitrohuffer
Hey Folks,
I have a BMS Ranch Stallion 4x4 that has been a really good UTV. I have recently burned the belt out by using it to get a tractor back on its feet after someone dumped it on its side. I found the belt online (380.00 bucks) and I have pulled the cover off to expose the belt. I pulled the old belt off but can not figure out how to reduce the tension on the pulleys. I do not know how to loosen the nut that hold the clutch on as it just spins the whole drive, how do i hold the spindle the nut threads onto? I can not find anyhing on the web about the bms ranch stallion and belt replacement. Anyone ever work on one of these?
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