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Fuel Tanks & Mods


Kinarfi
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Just got my new fuel tank in, wow, what a long filler neck :D , I guess things do improve with age, no wait, it's the newer the better, oh I just don't know, guess it really doesn't matter. Take a look at the photos, 2684655760104282158HQdBga_th.jpg, just for fun, I'm going to design & build a capacitive fuel gauge sender for it and make mod similar to flatbed's so the engine doesn't die when going down hill with low fuel. I'll take more photos

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Pulled the old tank & took the fuel gauge apart to see what makes it tick. It turns out that it has 5 reading, empty for the last 2 inches, 1/4 for about 1 1/2 inches, 1/2 for about 1 1/2 inches, 3/4 for about 1 1/2 inches and full for about 2 inches. Some other detail are: when full the resistance is 3 ohms and .3 volts when empty it has 110 ohms and 4.6 volts. It is grounded internally, poorly in my opinion, mine had started leaking if I stacked the tank, so I epoxied it to seal it up.

2906799300104282158dYAKCp_th.jpg

As the gas level rises, a magnet floats up closing the reed switches, there is a stop for the float about 3/4 inch from full.

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My sending unit stopped working a couple of months ago. Joyner would not replace but would sale me a new one, but only guaranty the new one for a month. The thing cost nearly $90. I said forget it. My dealer tried to repair and did sort of. Since I have a front hood that opens, I am installing a simple sight gauge or replacing with a simple sending unit with a float arm. I know of a couple other people who's gas gauges don't work. Personally this is one item that I would call over built/engineered and a piece of junk.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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kinarfi, if you look at the tank that i change you will see that i moved the mounts closer to the edges of the tank, if you hold the tank on the mounts closest to the filler spout the tank will balance on those two tabs, that means those two tabs are holding all the weight and the others are balancing the tank. Move the tabs to the end of the big part of the tank and make sure you put rubber on the mounts.

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Be careful welding on a gas tank. Have done it but didn't like it. Even if it is empty, it can explode.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I always fill it with water, but not wet the area being soldered/welded and then ignite any vapors prior to starting. At worst, you may get a small woosh as you burn off what ever vapor is left, and since it is controlled and expected, it is relatively safe. If memory serves me, 1 gal gas, properly mixed with air, is equal to 8 sticks of dynamite.

Thanks,

Jeff

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Kinarfi, I am thinking you will be sorry if you do not move the one set of tabs rearward on the fuel tank, with the added resiviour and the longer filler neck it is almost certain to break. Also you can fill the tank with carbon deoxside while welding, that is what i did. Keep the bottle on it with very low flow and little preassure.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got my fuel tank in and mounted, 2332719980104110397OJqBCt_th.jpg, mounted it on 6 rubber standoffs and it seems good, had to stop the seat 1/4" from all the way back because the 1" lift made the filler neck hit the back of seat. Will run a ground wire from frame to tank tomorrow, may add a new fuel pickup line later.

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My sending unit stopped working a couple of months ago. Joyner would not replace but would sale me a new one, but only guaranty the new one for a month. The thing cost nearly $90. I said forget it. My dealer tried to repair and did sort of. Since I have a front hood that opens, I am installing a simple sight gauge or replacing with a simple sending unit with a float arm. I know of a couple other people who's gas gauges don't work. Personally this is one item that I would call over built/engineered and a piece of junk.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I've been working on Rocmoc's gas gauge sender unit, waiting a part, and drew up the schematic for the Troopers with a front gas tank. Not to be disagreeable, but these things are very simple in their design and construction. Their biggest problem, IMO, is the red seal where the wires come out. The under seat gauges indicate by 1/4s and front tanks indicate by 1/8s.

2769810660104282158PweZQd_th.jpg

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I was talking to turbodude, Scott of Unleashed Motor Sports about gas tanks and he mentioned to me that the new tanks have a baffle in them between the gauge / filler pipe area and the rest of the tank, so I looked and of course, he's right. Interesting IMO. And since I couldn't stick my head in to look at the baffle, I stuck my camera lens in through the fuel gauge hole.20081219_06.jpg

More photos at http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr180/Kinarfi/

Played around with photobucket and think I like webshots better, just my opinion.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well damn, I have been building a clunk pick up for my Trooper's new gas tank and finally got around to cutting a hole to put the clunk in, I found another baffle in the middle of the tank, defeating my idea. Now I have to clean the metal out of the tank and patch the hole.

I have another idea though, and it should be easy build once I find something that will work as a float. Basically, it's an upside down carb float, when gas is present, the float holds the needle valve open, when you head down a steep hill or up, and all the gas moves to forward part of the tank and uncovers the outlet, there is no gas to hold the float up and the needle valve closes and the fuel pump has to pull fuel from the new front pickup which also has this setup. Ideally, you should not run out of gas going up or down when you're nearly empty.

Any input, anybody?

Jeff <_<

2714261180104282158BvmOZg_th.jpg

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I heard something rattling. Sounded just like a loose tank would. Sure enough, 3 of 4 tabs were broken and the last ready to go. To correct the problem I decided to put a 3/8" peice of plywood with tabs to prevent it from moving under the tank with about a 3/4" layer of polyethylene foam. I then put long threaded studs through the frames tank mount holes and bolted them in leaving mounted threaded studs sticking up. I then made some good solid straps to go over the tanks top. As I tighten it down the foam compresses and provides a solid non moving tank. This was pretty easy and makes for another solution that avoids welding for those that don't have the welder. I could have welded it but I was lazy. I was thinking, gosh, I got to drain the tank, pull all the fittings loose, make provisions so I don't blow myself and the tank up, redo it all and get things reprimed for starting. It was getting late and that sounded like a lot of work.

they quit showing fotos

You will also notice that I put little tabs on my seat belt eye bolts. This keeps the metal clip out of from under the seat when it's being closed. I just pull up on the straps when closing and the rest of the belt stays out to. Before the metal clips would fall down around the eye bolt and not clear always when pulling the straps up.



Lenny

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I like your straps, Plywood and foam under, when I replaced mine, I did quite a bit of hammering to take out some dents, but with the plywood resting on the frame, I think your set. That's kinda what I was going to do while I waited for my new tank, but then I just padded around and under it.

I like your seat belt anchors too.

Jeff

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