Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I picked it up monday night , it was pouring rain while loading it up. I left it on the trailer last night since it was cold ,wet and i didnt feel well. All day at work today all I could think about was getting home and unloading it to take it for a spin. So far we have about 25 miles on it and it came with 5.5 on it. How well does the odomator (sp) work ? How many miles do you guys get to a tank ? I cant wait for our trip for new years

Posted
I picked it up monday night , it was pouring rain while loading it up. I left it on the trailer last night since it was cold ,wet and i didnt feel well. All day at work today all I could think about was getting home and unloading it to take it for a spin. So far we have about 25 miles on it and it came with 5.5 on it. How well does the odomator (sp) work ? How many miles do you guys get to a tank ? I cant wait for our trip for new years

Congratulations on your new toy! Be sure and post pictures.

Cinda

Posted

Congrats, have fun, I get about 15 mpg, as high as 20 & as low as 10. The speedo is in mph & kph and is reasonably close, get a gps :P and the odometer is kilometers, not miles. There are some neat and easy mod posted here, but I like my air filter snorkel the most.

Where are at? Can you fill out your profile so the rest of can know a bit about you.

Welcome to the Trooper Driver Club.

Jeff

PS If you want some suggestions about posting some photos, PM me. :D

2539252660104110397EljacZ_th.jpg

Posted
Congrats, have fun, I get about 15 mpg, as high as 20 & as low as 10. The speedo is in mph & kph and is reasonably close, get a gps :P and the odometer is kilometers, not miles. There are some neat and easy mod posted here, but I like my air filter snorkel the most.

Where are at? Can you fill out your profile so the rest of can know a bit about you.

Welcome to the Trooper Driver Club.

Jeff

PS If you want some suggestions about posting some photos, PM me. :D

2539252660104110397EljacZ_th.jpg

My odometer is in miles and km, one is under the other. what kind of mods are rec first ?

Posted
Number 1 and absolute first mod is fill the gas tank and then go empty it. Enjoy it.

Jeff

I can handle that one, how do you guys compare the trooper to a rhino ride wise ? from my research it seemed like people sold rhinos to get troopers.

I read on another fourm that increasing the fuel pressure to 60 psi and changing plugs makes power. That doesent make sense to me, if it needed to be richened up then it would be lean from the factory , the oly thing I can think it it may allow more timing to be run

Posted

I would leave the plugs and fuel preasure alone, I feel the engine improvements will come when the throtle body is changed. Your power always has something to do with fuel mixture. These are smog engines and I don't think chery had hp in mind to the extent that we are thinking about. Someone will do some testing in time and we will have a hp gain just like the other utv's, I would think these engines would get over 100 hp with the right mods which would be great. Puting a different intake system where the engine does not thave to suck the air so far before it gets to the throtlle body i think would help the low end.

Posted

I like the idea of going with the correct Iridium plug because the will probably never need changing, I think that's what came in my Yukon and I didn't change them until I had about 90,000 miles. In my youth, it was common for the hot rods to have stacks on the carbs, I kinda thought that maybe the long air intake manifold and maybe the snorkel acted like the old stacks of yesteryear. Anyway, the power I have now is adequate for what I do and don't feel the need to change stuff until others have proven their mods.

Jeff

Posted

I have some ideas about mods later on, I have a buddy @ Aris pistons and could have a nice custom set of pistons built to raise the comp, sending the head to portflow , one the top honda head guys and have the cams reground. As for the intake length i belive that the runner length and pleueum area could see some changes but dont think a short runner is going to build low end

Posted

Fast Ferddy has a chip thta is supposed to be good for 15 hp, its $900

I have a alot of friends who I race with and lots of connections , one of them has a dyno shop and I may try to knock the cat out and play with the Fp with a innovative or Fat O2 hooked up and see if there any gains

Posted

Ii was talking about the distance from the throtle body to the air cleaner, long runners are for top end, this is not a carb engine , it is injecteed, as far as $900 for 15 hp, that is kind of costly. Knocking out the cat, i have already done that, gives you more on top end but i think the bottom is still flat. This engine is 9.5 to 1 so there is enough compresion to work with, we have no idea what the timing is or what the fuel mixture is. this engine just feels like it is starving for air on the low end. Has anyone pulled the intake of to see if the head and intake are port matched. What i am saying is there are alot of small thing that can be done on these engines before we have to think about going inside the engine and changing parts. It is nice to work with numbers. vilosity stacks were used to speed the air up before it got to the carb venturi for better fuel mixture, this engine is port injected so the fuel is sprayed into each cylinder, if you can get more air into the engine the computer will tell the injectors it needs more fuel.

Posted

I agree with flatbed. Engines are all about how much fuel and air you can get into them. The more you put in the more power that comes out . The easiest and least expensive first approaach should be to clean up the air ways into the engine. Any little step the air has to navigate while on it's way into the engine sets up turbulance which hinders flow. Misaligned ports which is very common can cause this. Ideally, a clean one peice smooth tube from air filter to the engine is the best. When racing motorcycles, (WOW, that was nearly 45 years ago) there was always debate rather a smooth intake manifold was better than a rough one (usually casting texture). Smooth ones allowed for a more clean laminar air flow while rough ones caused turbulance. Turbulance was thought by some to better atomize the fuel. Thats in a carborated engine. With a fuel injected engine, were not dealing with atomizing as this is done by the injectors. as a result we want air flow that is as clean and smooth as can be obtained by hand working the air intake route.

To picture laminar flow remember for those that have seen it, like at Disney world/land, a foutain that shoots out a stream of water that stays as a water tube without any support as it moves through the air. Usually it will jump, arcing over something and drop right back into a hole still as one long tube of water. This is done by first eliminating any and all turbulance from the water by running it through a very clean unobstructed tube until its flow becomes laminar. It stays together after leaving the tube because it has no internal turbulance to break it up. Laminar air flow is the most efficient air flow that can be acheived. What you want in a fuel enjected engine is laminar flow. This is obtained by cleaning up the intake structure to be as clean and unobstructive as possible.

This one item can make a big difference in engine efficiency.

Lenny

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

The Joyner dealer in Saint George, Utah, Epic Motorsports, has put a super charger on a T2 along with nitrise Oxide. The last I spoke with him he hasn't completed it yet. It's installed but not tuned in. I'll keep this site informed. When I asked if he thought the engine would hold together, he said "I have no idea I gues we'll find out" This guy is a real extremist, He has a 1200 hp Dodge Ram. Maybe we'll get a chance to see just how much this engine will or will not take.

Flatbed, do you have any idea just how many horses the turbo added?

Lenny

Posted

flatbed pointed out to me once before about the extra pressure a turbo will put on the engine and running gear. I agree with him too however it's human instinct to look at aftermarket power boosters and most people will always at least consider it. With turbos, if you want to pump it up to the max it's going to cost max dollars keeping it running but if your not so hungry for power a little bit of boost will satisfy without stressing out your machine to much.

Cheers Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By JimG
      Recently, my unit Axis 500 (2020) will only go into reverse and neutral. I am not able to get high or low. The engine itself sounds fine and I do not have other issues on this unit. I change the engine oil but have not yet changed the gear oil.
      Before this happened I occasionally encountered issue where going from reverse to high gear, it would grind some and i had to reposition to shift into high gear. I also for last couple weeks heard a squeaking sound. I couldn't tell what it was. Was looking for a grease point I missed.
      The unit has around 70 hours and is kept in the garage.
      Anyone else encounter this type of scenario? Any suggestions on troubleshooting would be appreciated. Thanks.
    • By Paul Angstadt
      Hi everybody. I just bought a 2012 Hisun with the 700cc engine. Was wondering where i could find a service manual for this thing?
      Its going to need some parts that are missing, like the air intake hoses and other things. Also the dash display is out. the only light that works is neutral light. Not even sure on the model. from pics I've seen, it looks like an HS700. Kind of grey with the black stripes on the hood. Just hoping i can find parts for it.
      Thank you for any advice you can give me. By the way, it does run and goes forward and reverse.
      Paul
    • By Isaac
      I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it.  It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me 
    • By diamondjfarm
      I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
      Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
      Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
      Thanks.
    • By Buck
      My father-in-law has a Hisun 750.  It has started to not change gears while running.  He can turn it off, change gears, then restart and it will change.  I thought it might have something to do with the brake but can’t find any info.  Thanks in advance for any info.
       
×
×
  • Create New...