Quantcast
Jump to content

hisun 700 utv no fire from coil


Recommended Posts

my name is albert i have in my shop a hs700utv that im getting no fire to coil i replaced the cdi  and checked the relays and ignition switch out getting power to the cdi but nothing to coil and i didn't find any broken wires. they said that it was running fine and then it just stopped and  wasn't getting any power to the coil  is their another sensor on here that will stop it from firing  i have looked at a wiring diagram but im not seeing  anything different from what i know  i checked the cdi and im getting fire to it but not to coil and this is a second coil no difference  and also this is a delphi cdi 2 port is their any way to check it i know im getting power to the black  plug in cdi  on the # 10 the green and black wire but nothing else the blue and black wire is opposite of it the emergency brake and neutral switch is working  is their a obd II plug for this i found one in back of pickup bed but i cant find a scanner but im not sure if it is one  and im getting power to the stator the threee wires  im at a lost here 

Edited by albert schewe
i forgot some info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

no not yet but i did change it with a used one that worked   and i got a plug tester on the line and i also had a screw driver in my hand no bite and i know the wires going to it i tested them while turning the engine over nothing and i traced the wires back to the cdi  the black /white which goes to the cdi  and the black / blue  which that comes from ignition and i can hear the relay click when i turn on the key  and those two wires are dead but im getting power to the cdi on pin 10  which is green / black  and as i said this is a new cdi  theirs got to be another sensor that is sending a message not to fire  but im not sure  

 

 

Edited by albert schewe
i forgot some info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
3 hours ago, Bob1971 said:

I have same problem with hisun 550 on coleman outfitter...help?

 

The CKP (CranKshaft Position sensor controls when the spark occurs--if it is bad there will be no spark. The black/white wire to the coil is +12V supplied by the ECU, the black/blue wire is the active "drive" signal for the coil--it will be at ground potential when the coil is charging, and floating (disconnected) when the spark occurs.

The way it works is that when the ECU grounds the black/blue wire the coil's primary windings  are energised and build  a magnetic field in the coil's iron core--when the ground to the black/blue wire is disconnected that field collapses generating high voltage in the secondary windings. When that happens is controlled by the CKP...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

There is a wiring harness connector down low on the passenger side. This is what caused mine to not get fire. One of the connectors in that connector was oxidized and not making contact. I cleaned it up and it worked for a couple of weeks. I then cut the wires and connected them outside the connector. 
2014 coleman 500

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
On 22/3/2021 at 22:44, Still learning 71 said:

¿Alguna vez averiguaste cuál era el problema? Tengo un hisun 700 modelo 2012 haciendo exactamente lo mismo. Solo tiene 124 millas. No hay fuego en la bujía.  

 

On 22/3/2021 at 22:44, Still learning 71 said:

¿Alguna vez averiguaste cuál era el problema? Tengo un hisun 700 modelo 2012 haciendo exactamente lo mismo. Solo tiene 124 millas. No hay fuego en la bujía.  

Hello, did you find the problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
    • By Bassarino51
      My 2014 Odes with less than 1000 miles suddenly won’t turn over with a fully charged battery.
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Steve R
      after looking at the diagnostic procedures in this forum, I am finding my Gunner 250 does not have an engine warning light on the dash. i have tried to see if any other symbols flash, but nothing seems to project an error code. i have not engine spark. I do not get a start of the fuel pump. I have replaced the ignition coil, the ECU (MT05) and the voltage regulator. I could really use a diagram for the 250 model. i need a place to start checking the electrical system.
×
×
  • Create New...