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Posted

I have had my E1 since late last summer and I have always noticed that the parking brake was weak or non existent. About a month or so after I purchased it I mentioned to the dealer that the parking brake did not function well. What I was expecting from the dealer, ' well bring it in and we will correct the issue.' What I got was the typical dealer response, "it may just need to be adjusted." No shit!  Well I finally decided to adjust it. A very simple process need only two 10mm wrenches.  Open the bed, remove the pin holding the bed  to the strut and move the bad out of the way. Right in front of the electric motor is a brake disk.  That is the parking brake. It has a small set of brake pads that are actuated by a lever attached to parking brake cable.  There are two 10 mm nuts on the shaft to moves the pads. Release the inner nut and hold it in place while screwing in the outer nut - that is really a bolt. After screwing it in about one turn, tighten the other nut.  Check the parking brake. If it is holding when activated, then you are good, but if not, then you may have to turn the bolt another turn. Do not turn to far or you will lock it up.1883595306_E1Parkingbrakeadjustment.thumb.jpg.65e0d249b37f9eaed7f2e5e68907eff9.jpg

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Posted

I'd worked out how to do this a while back, but it's a useful tip. My biggest problem is that the mechanism gets covered in mud, as does the bit at the front which latches the brake on until you stamp on the foot brake pedal, causing both to seize up. For an off road vehicle, it's surprisingly open to the worst off road driving can throw at it!

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

The parking brake on the E1 is a very poor design. In the year I have owned it I have had to adjust it four or five times. I have to adjust about every month to six weeks. I think it was designed by an idiot. Which is possible because there are a bunch out there! I may have to put a hydraulic lock on the brake system. That will lock all four wheels. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

One weird thing that caught my eye is that in the owners manual in the section about storing the unit, there is a single sentence that says not to leave the parking break engaged when stored. What is up with that ? At the top of this section it says something like, "when not using  your utv for more than a few hours". Then it lists several things including taking off the parking break ???? Is this true ? What happens if you leave the parking break engaged ? Does it seize up or something ?

Posted

The parking brake on this unit is a JOKE.  It is a very crude disk brake on the drive shaft. I can imagine that it could NOT release if left engaged for a long period of time. But since it rarely works well I do not think that would be an issue, unless it had recently been adjusted to work. I find that after adjustment it works well for only a few weeks. It is a VERY POOR design. I carry a block of wood in mine to put under a wheel to hold it on a slope! I have discussed with my dealer about this issue, but have received no satisfaction . I have considered installing a brake line cut-off valve. It works by holding the pressure on your brake fluid (like having your your foot on the brake all the time), then when you push on the brake pedal it releases.

Posted

I agree the parking brake is not all that great of design.  Mine holds fine on a very steep slope, but doesn't always fully release.  I frequently leave mine setting for long periods of time with the parking brake on and have never noticed any ill effects from doing that.

Posted

The cable is fairly long with a number of sharp curves in it. Leaving it tight on will cause stretch, and then its going to need adjustment. Its not the greatest, but just consider it as part of regular maintenance, along with greasing the suspension grease points .  I guess people dont do that either.

The E1 may be electric but you still need to do maintenance. It does help with longer term ownership. Greasing the suspension bushes is really important and almost never done. Greasing pushes out the dirt that acts like grinding paste. Regularly pressure wash the bushes/ arms. It will help. Dry conditions with dust and sand can be really bad, wash off the excess grease / dust, re grease and wipe away the excess.  If you are really into maintenance, then strip wash and re grease all the suspension bushes annually. The propshaft has a number of grease points, and it may be easier to do this with the belly pan removed. 

If you catch the belly pan at the front edge. Dont leave this, I have had a couple with this and it then acts as a scoop , result even more crud inside. .  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Recently my E1 has some sort of failure with the parking brake light system.   The light no longer comes on when the parking brake is engaged.   It used to be that the motor wouldn't run if the parking brake was engaged at all.   Now it will.   The problem with that is that in low range the e-drive  has more than enough torque to propel the vehicle despite the parking brake being on.  I first noticed the problem when I smelled the parking brake overheating while driving.

The bulb on the parking brake light is good because it comes on when I first turn the key on.   I have been unable to locate the switch that activates the parking brake light.   I called the dealer.   He would not give advice over the phone and insisted I bring it in.  They are too far away and it would likely tie up a couple of my days to do that.    I adjusted the park brake as Gorj showed.  So it holds stronger now, but unless you really press hard when you set  it, low range will still override the parking brake.

Anyone know where the parking brake light switch is?

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Are you sure you need to replace it?   

These E1s have so much torque in low range that you can drive with the parking brake on and never even notice the brake being on   If the brake light switch works you shouldn't be able to do that (It keeps the drive motor from starting if lit), but the brake switch fails fairly often (I have had 2 fail in the 5 years I have owned mine).   If you drive it for a while with the parking brake on (like I have done on multiple occasions), it will quickly wear the pad and the brake will no longer hold.   To fix it, Lift the cargo bed and find the parking brake (located just in front of the drive motor on the drive line feeding the front wheels), The adjustment bolt is on the front of the brake.   Loosen the 10 mm lock nut on the adjustment bolt and turn the 10 mm bolt inward to adjust the parking brake.   I have had to do this multiple times over the years to keep the parking brake working, but have yet to wear the parking brake pad out.   

If yours is indeed worn out, any Hison dealer should be able to order you parts, or possibly an automotive machine shop can reapply a new brake liner. 

The brake light switch is on the brake linkage behind the firewall and is kind of a bitch to change because of its inaccessible location.

Posted

I think this silly little E brake system is the same on the Hisun (Coleman 550 in my case)  ICE powered models.  Same issue of zero E brake after a month.   Your original description of how to adjust is just perfect. I'm going to give it a try since there is really nothing in even the tech manual about it.   Thanks for posting it.

Posted

I’ve adjusted the parking brake several times with a 1/2 turn of the bolt.  My E1 will move a few feet bucking as they go and then the electric motor shuts off. Turn the switch off then back on and it will move a few more feet. Something is shutting down the electric motor. Any thoughts are much appreciated. Thank you for your previous reply 

Posted

The parking brake is a piece of CRAP!  I recently purchased a brake line switch/valve that will lock up the brakes when activated. Race cars use them. I am going to install it in the Spring when it is warmer. Right now I do not park it on any inclines without putting a block under a wheel! 

Posted
7 hours ago, Gorj said:

The parking brake is a piece of CRAP!  I recently purchased a brake line switch/valve that will lock up the brakes when activated. Race cars use them. I am going to install it in the Spring when it is warmer. Right now I do not park it on any inclines without putting a block under a wheel! 

Intrigued by this idea. My parking brake has been disconnected since I changed the batteries six months ago. I've become quite adept at parking in such a way that the buggy doesn't roll anywhere, although there have been a couple of times I've done that and one of the cows has started using it as a scratching post and sent it off down the hill!

Posted

While we are complaining about parking brakes, I will note that the flat bar the pedal mounts to on mine bent when I pushed on the pedal too hard.   I had to tear it apart and reinforce it.    Even though we are bitching about the parking brake, my E1 has been the handiest vehicle I can imagine around my place.   I have never regretted buying it.  It is so easy to use day by day to use., much easier than a gas-powered rig,

Posted

Gorj, Any chance you can share what brake line/switch you bought?   I'm tired of trying to toss a 4x4 under a wheel on a slope while holding the brake pedal down to keep from rolling away.  

Posted
1 hour ago, Cougsfan said:

While we are complaining about parking brakes, I will note that the flat bar the pedal mounts to on mine bent when I pushed on the pedal too hard.   I had to tear it apart and reinforce it.    Even though we are bitching about the parking brake, my E1 has been the handiest vehicle I can imagine around my place.   I have never regretted buying it.  It is so easy to use day by day to use., much easier than a gas-powered rig,

I AGREE.  The E1 is, for me, a very useful tool. I do not like small gas engines, so the electric engine is great. Around my 20 ac. I do not need anything more.

Posted

I have not installed it yet. But it would need to be installed where it can be accessed by hand with two brake lines run to a brake line going to the UTV's brake line. It would be like cutting the brake line and installing the valve. How it works is you put pressure on the brake fluid with the brake pedal, activate the valve and it holds the pressure, thus holding the brakes, until you depress the brake pedal again that releases the valve and thus releases the brakes when you let up on the pedal.

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Posted

Installation shouldn't be too difficult if you've got some pipe and a flaring tool to hand. It's working out where best to put the thing that's going to be fun! They're not very expensive, so I think I might give it a go.

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