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Skid plate debate


ChrisG

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I've read indicators that some have upgraded or added to existing skid protection. Are their pictures available on this topic? Is the factory skid plate adequate for everyone? I personally considering upgrading to one single plate from front to back out of 1/8 steel for extra protection. This is after concaving 3 out of the 8 existing plates (and I haven't even hit the woods yet!). I am still debating on how to attach the plate to my unit. The extra weight is not too much of an issue for me. The addition would add about 117 lbs minus removal of the existing metal.

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I have had zero problems with the skid plates and I have knocked the heck our of them. I modified my rear plate because the first Troopers' plates were ALL wielded on with zero access to components. I had to remove it to replace the rear driveling and only replace it then. This would be very low on my wish list.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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I have had zero problems with the skid plates and I have knocked the heck our of them. I modified my rear plate because the first Troopers' plates were ALL wielded on with zero access to components. I had to remove it to replace the rear driveling and only replace it then. This would be very low on my wish list.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Your skid plates must not be aluminum?

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Guest Lenny

If rocmoc's were welded on they would have to be steel. Thats a lot stronger. I've bashed mine (aluminum) in too. sinced I lowered my diff, which now sticks about 3/4" below the frame, The plate under the diff and engine is 3/8" plate. Had a 3/16" plate first and destroyed it clipping a rock projecting out of the ground while I was going through a dip with a little speed. Actually had a Hex hole in the plate where the drain plug punched through. That was enough for me. The other plates arn't really strong enough. I'll replace mine at some point with aircraft aluminum, 7000 series. This is a lot stronger and a lot stiffer. It will be stronger then the steel and it isn't so soft like our current plates. I'll also cover the areas under the feet and seat as it makes a good catch area for rocks etc. I took a peice of 3/8" x 1" steel bar and cut it into about 1-1/4" lengths, drilled and tapped it for 3/8" bolts. Welded these to the tops of the existing tabs. I use grade 8 flat head socket cap screws. When I skid over a rock, it can't get ahold of it to knock the head off or fold it under.

Lenny

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Yeah i've beat the heck out of mine but i think the main problem is that the skid plates are in so many pieces and are mounted with light tabs. if the skid plate was one or two pieces it would be much stronger because it would have to pull and stretch the metal from the underside of the whole unit. i am eventually going to build a 1 piece from 3/16 aluminum and drill and tap holes in the frame to mount it. there is special washers out there that you drill a 1 inch hole in the skid plate and the washer is recessed so you can use a hex bolt without worrying about catching it on rocks or trees. Yamaha uses the same method, if you have a buddy with a rhino look at how his plates are mounted.

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WOW! I never knew they went to alum, just assumed they took the same steel and bolted it. The Rhino that went with us the other day had the factory plastic plates. By the end of the day they were busted and hanging in a couple places.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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2022856910104110397ULpSet_th.jpg

The skid plate mounting method on mine sux!!!! so I'm changing them all to these speed nuts that leaves the head of the screw/bolt exposed instead of the nut, which was always getting buggered, so now I can get them out. My hopes are to put a one piece sheet of 3/8 or 1/2 inch nylon under the buggy like the off road racing trucks use. The aluminum on mine is diamond plate and very soft, so soft that it actually smears, I had to cut 3/8 inch off after hammering it flat when I took it off to work on my gas tank.

kinarfi

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