Quantcast
Jump to content


Skid plate debate


ChrisG

Recommended Posts

I've read indicators that some have upgraded or added to existing skid protection. Are their pictures available on this topic? Is the factory skid plate adequate for everyone? I personally considering upgrading to one single plate from front to back out of 1/8 steel for extra protection. This is after concaving 3 out of the 8 existing plates (and I haven't even hit the woods yet!). I am still debating on how to attach the plate to my unit. The extra weight is not too much of an issue for me. The addition would add about 117 lbs minus removal of the existing metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had zero problems with the skid plates and I have knocked the heck our of them. I modified my rear plate because the first Troopers' plates were ALL wielded on with zero access to components. I had to remove it to replace the rear driveling and only replace it then. This would be very low on my wish list.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had zero problems with the skid plates and I have knocked the heck our of them. I modified my rear plate because the first Troopers' plates were ALL wielded on with zero access to components. I had to remove it to replace the rear driveling and only replace it then. This would be very low on my wish list.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Your skid plates must not be aluminum?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

If rocmoc's were welded on they would have to be steel. Thats a lot stronger. I've bashed mine (aluminum) in too. sinced I lowered my diff, which now sticks about 3/4" below the frame, The plate under the diff and engine is 3/8" plate. Had a 3/16" plate first and destroyed it clipping a rock projecting out of the ground while I was going through a dip with a little speed. Actually had a Hex hole in the plate where the drain plug punched through. That was enough for me. The other plates arn't really strong enough. I'll replace mine at some point with aircraft aluminum, 7000 series. This is a lot stronger and a lot stiffer. It will be stronger then the steel and it isn't so soft like our current plates. I'll also cover the areas under the feet and seat as it makes a good catch area for rocks etc. I took a peice of 3/8" x 1" steel bar and cut it into about 1-1/4" lengths, drilled and tapped it for 3/8" bolts. Welded these to the tops of the existing tabs. I use grade 8 flat head socket cap screws. When I skid over a rock, it can't get ahold of it to knock the head off or fold it under.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i've beat the heck out of mine but i think the main problem is that the skid plates are in so many pieces and are mounted with light tabs. if the skid plate was one or two pieces it would be much stronger because it would have to pull and stretch the metal from the underside of the whole unit. i am eventually going to build a 1 piece from 3/16 aluminum and drill and tap holes in the frame to mount it. there is special washers out there that you drill a 1 inch hole in the skid plate and the washer is recessed so you can use a hex bolt without worrying about catching it on rocks or trees. Yamaha uses the same method, if you have a buddy with a rhino look at how his plates are mounted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW! I never knew they went to alum, just assumed they took the same steel and bolted it. The Rhino that went with us the other day had the factory plastic plates. By the end of the day they were busted and hanging in a couple places.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2022856910104110397ULpSet_th.jpg

The skid plate mounting method on mine sux!!!! so I'm changing them all to these speed nuts that leaves the head of the screw/bolt exposed instead of the nut, which was always getting buggered, so now I can get them out. My hopes are to put a one piece sheet of 3/8 or 1/2 inch nylon under the buggy like the off road racing trucks use. The aluminum on mine is diamond plate and very soft, so soft that it actually smears, I had to cut 3/8 inch off after hammering it flat when I took it off to work on my gas tank.

kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Alien10
      A while back I was looking at an auction UTV plow and the mounting of it.  Looked like it had an "H" bar with two pins that hooked into brackets on the front frame of the UTV.   I have a bunch of 1/4" x2" angle iron, and some 2"x1/2" flat stock in the barn.   I was thinking of welding up a bolt on implement mount that would provide 2 holes about 14" apart, that pins could be used to hook up an "H" frame for a plow or even a straight bar across with pins to hold it in place.   The angle iron "A" would utilize the existing bumper mounting bolts front and bottom, and have the two channels "B" with holes for individual pins or one large bar across. Those channels would be welded to the ends of the angle iron. 
      Anyone ever try this for a front mount?   It would be close to  this one that is for sale on the net.  It is supposed to fit a KFI plow mount.  

       
    • By BernieG
      I could really use some help identifying some disconnected components on a Yard Sport YS400. The first part is this pipe, which comes out of the exhaust port area or the cylinder. It looks like it had a piece of rubber hose on it, but the hose is gone, and I have no idea what it was previously connected to.

      The second item is this vacuum valve looking thing.  Again only one line is still attached.  What is it's function and what other lines should be connected to it?

      The last thing is this hose, which exits the side top of the fuel tank (not the fuel line hose) but is not connected to anything

       
      Any help the community could provide would be greatly appreciated.  This UTV belongs to a friend, and I am trying to help him get it running correctly for his kids.
    • By Joe Breaux
      Everybody out riding? Awfully quiet here recently. It's so damn hot here .We expect 112 to 116 heat index tomorrow..getting too old for that heat.
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
    • By BOYD
      I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the  cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...