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By mrpro
I got the fronts adjusted. I'm trying to raise the ride height in the rear, but my spanner wrench keeps slipping. Is there an easier better way? It's like there's too much pressure working against me to be able to twist the height adjusters. How can I relieve that tension to make them easier to turn?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By OBL
program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
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By AaronD1982
Onto the next problem, everything has been replaced in the charging system except the Flywheel Rotor, I have it torn apart all the way down to said rotor, but it is suggested that a specific puller is required, and a compatible rotor seems virtually impossible to find. I can find many like it, but this one is mine scenario for those that get the reference. For all I know I have the last Massimo Buck 400S on the planet and will never find another part again, but who knows. Any ideas, help or otherwise that anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.
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By Fmaxiron
Hit a rock last weekend and trashed my front A-arm and axle on my Outlander. I’ve been looking around for reliable sources for replacement components. A lot of listings online look a bit hit or miss, so I’m trying to figure out what’s actually worth trusting.
Has anyone here had good luck with dealers or sites where you can buy genuine Can-Am spare parts online without worrying about quality issues or fake OEM stuff? I’d rather pay a bit more and get the right fit than deal with problems later.
Any recommendations appreciated.
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