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Cage mods?


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I was wondering if any of you have done any cage mods? I'm planning on gusseting and welding in some rear and front braces. I was tired of that hinged "bed" on the back. Plus it's so noisy. I'm going to hinge the front of the plastic base so I can stand it directly straight up for getting clearance into the engine bay. I stripped it today and will hopefully have it all welded within the week. I figure it will save another 50 pounds or so as well. Here's what i plan. The red is the new supports; and the green are gussets. (I guess thats kinda obvious huh!) Should work OK I think. I'm really leary about flipping this vehicle. I don't want to have it collapse if it ever does go topsy turvy.

-Ken

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Looks good, but I would think that the bars right behind the driver should have some sort of an "X" connection to keep the cage from shifting to the left or right in a hard side to side roll over. There is no support to stop a sideways shift, or and "X" on the roof might help too.

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I like the looks! One thing I keep looking at on mine is that if I ever decide to move the radiator up higher, I would want to be able to use the frame tubing to move the antifreeze so I wouldn't need hoses. You may want to incorporate that idea into your modification.

kinarfi

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Ken, Sorry this is off the subject but I have to. Tell me about your muffler. How quiet? Brand? Did it come with the input sweeping 90 degree bend? I want to install a muffler this weekend. I want it to be quiet.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Thanks guys! Yeah I do think it's a good idea to put some kind of "X" brace possibly in the arch behind the seats; replacing the bolt on braces. I'm thinking of putting some kind of mount for a spare tire laying flat on the engine cover; thats the reason for not "X"bracing the rear support tubes.

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Ken, Sorry this is off the subject but I have to. Tell me about your muffler. How quiet? Brand? Did it come with the input sweeping 90 degree bend? I want to install a muffler this weekend. I want it to be quiet.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Hi rocmoc;

The muffler is called a "Hushpower" . It's really not all that quiet but did increase backpressure a little bit thus helping the low end power. The 90 degree bend from the catback and the 90 degree tip was put on by the muffler shop I took it to. They also built my snorkle

-Ken

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Hi rocmoc;

The muffler is called a "Hushpower" . It's really not all that quiet but did increase backpressure a little bit thus helping the low end power. The 90 degree bend from the catback and the 90 degree tip was put on by the muffler shop I took it to. They also built my snorkle

-Ken

Ken can you post some more pictures of your snorkle?

Cinda

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Thanks Mopartist. Sure looks good but I wanted quiet. I went with a Cherry Bomb Turbo. Doesn't look as good but it is quiet & less expensive.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Yeah; I really wish mine was quieter. I'd like to be able to listen to an Ipod while riding.

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I know this is not the post for this, but I was wondering if any of you have tried the foam filters (UNI) instead of the K&N filters with the prefilter set-up and if you noticed any difference in performance after you added that long snorkle on your intake tube.

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I know this is not the post for this, but I was wondering if any of you have tried the foam filters (UNI) instead of the K&N filters with the prefilter set-up and if you noticed any difference in performance after you added that long snorkle on your intake tube.

On the question concerning the snorkle; I had the muffler and the snorkle done at the same time; so the low end HP increase would be from the combination of both as far as I know.

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Well; I got some of the mods done this weekend. I ran out of steel before I got to the "X" cross braces behind the seats; but I think this will be a much improved cage than stock.

Oooops; I did have an accident and burned a hole through my rear fender as a glob of molten wire got under the leather cover I put over the resin. Boy does that stuff melt easy!

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I was just curios of you used to paint the bars. I used spray paint last time but i know that wont hold up. I thought about using a roll on bed liner if I could find some that will stick good, thought it would match up with the factory texture better.

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I was just curios of you used to paint the bars. I used spray paint last time but i know that wont hold up. I thought about using a roll on bed liner if I could find some that will stick good, thought it would match up with the factory texture better.

I used a shot of self etching primer on the bare metal; and rustoleum over that although I'm sure it will scratch easily.

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This is what I use to spray over scratches, marks and rusty welds on all Joyner vehicles. It is a near perfect match (when dry it's hard to see where you have sprayed) for the black painted areas and it's made in the States so should be available from stores such as the Home Depot. This product is so good that I have used it on bare metal without a primer on all my tow bars that we make with no problems at all. Two coats are needed for bare metal. Trust me on this one, you wont be disappointed. The product is Rust Master by Zynolyte and the link for more info is http://www.zynolyte.com/zynopages/rustmaster.asp For a large area like what Mopartist is doing, I would recommend you use one of Zynolytes three primers which you can find with the above link. Mopartist, one primer and two epoxy's should be enough for your job. The beauty is, it's so quick and simple with no mess. You know those areas where you can see rust coming through normally where the welds are above the floor or on the tray areas for Commandos & Renegades, don't use CRC use Rust Master because it stops rust, coats it and tidies the area up. Grab a can when you see them. Kinarfi, this is worth a mention on the Pinned: Parts & info for Troopers.

Cheers Mike.

Good Idea, Done, Thanks, Kinarfi

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This is what I use to spray over scratches, marks and rusty welds on all Joyner vehicles. It is a near perfect match (when dry it's hard to see where you have sprayed) for the black painted areas and it's made in the States so should be available from stores such as the Home Depot. This product is so good that I have used it on bare metal without a primer on all my toe bars that we make with no problems at all. Two coats are needed for bare metal. Trust me on this one, you wont be disappointed. The product is Rust Master by Zynolyte and the link for more info is http://www.zynolyte.com/zynopages/rustmaster.asp For a large area like what Mopartist is doing, I would recommend you use one of Zynolytes three primers which you can find with the above link. Mopartist, one primer and two epoxy's should be enough for your job. The beauty is, it's so quick and simple with no mess. You know those areas where you can see rust coming through normally where the welds are above the floor or on the tray areas for Commandos & Renegades, don't use CRC use Rust Master because it stops rust, coats it and tidies the area up. Grab a can when you see them. Kinarfi, this is worth a mention on the Pinned: Parts & info for Troopers.

Cheers Mike.

Hey thanks for the info Brostar! I really appreciate it

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  • 4 years later...

I'm getting ready to change mine I will take some pictures. I'v taken about 450 lbs off of my 2009 T 2. I would really like to see if I can get a little more rpm's out of it. The thing does really will in the dunes just need a little more top end on the flats.

anyone have any ideas?

Thanks Don.

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Ya it has a turbo, king shocks, new seats, took the winch and bracket off. I removed the E brake and I'm in the process of putting a line lock on.Removed the bed and all the bolt on cage brackets they are heavy. I'm putting a new top cage on now to make it a little stronger.30in tires.Have one of my spare axles at shop to see if they can make lighter ones they are like 1 ton pick up axle. I talked to Lenny about a stand alone computer about a year ago I think that is the only way to get more RPM's out of it.

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I found 11 pound wheels for mine on Ebay. That saves a lot of weight. The steel plate under the stock seat is about 10 pounds. I replaced mine with aluminum plates. Going to a one piece drive shaft will save about 28 pounds. I eliminated all U joints and the middle carrier bearing set up. I used a piece of 1/8" wall 1-3/4 inch DOM tubing with the spleens off the U joints welded to the ends. The engine and transmission are already close to being aligned with each other. A little tweaking on the engine finishes the job. If you eliminated your E brake, tie your rear calipers on each rear side together to increase braking. I had dual calipers on all four wheels, huge difference in stopping power. Never gave poor brakes a second thought after that.

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  • 3 months later...

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