Leaderboard

Checked it thoroughly. No stickers or stamping to identify the manufacturer. Only numbers are 201811, on the rear of the housing. I googled it, but came up with nothing.

There's no reason why the wires would burn. There's no starter, and no amp draw, so there's no current. No reason for burning anything. With a bit of care, and some electrical tape. There shouldn't even be any sparks.

A update it's worth every modifications I have done. I would do everything all over again. It very smooth and climbs hills and going over Rock's and logs so much better.

As to the solenoid, you wouldn't need to test it directly at the solenoid. There's a perfectly good cable already attached to the lugs on either side of the solenoid. Check it on the other ends of the cables. In a no start situation, you might need to access the solenoid directly. But not this time. Checking the switch is a bit more involved, but only because there's at least three positions, and usually more. But for your issue, there's no reason to check to make sure the off, or on works. It'd be more about resistance, and checking for corrosion. Sometimes corrosion happens internally, like when you wash it, and get water in the keyhole. Over time, this can cause problems. Checking it is a very simple procedure. You just test each position, one at a time. Unfortunately this is probably best done with direct access. I wouldn't spend a lot of time on it. If the starter is getting what it needs. Then we know everything else is working.

Finally gotten some work done on closing up the role gage and Finnished up the back window. Found a piece of lexon upstairs in the garage left over from the fire wall for the pulling truck.

I've come to believe that the most likely cause of your issue. Is that the starter has some kind of internal problem.

Have you tried jumping the wiring with jumper cables? Go from the buggies Battery to the starter, if it starts fine, wiring issue. If not, bad battery , starter, or wiring issue.

Have you checked that the ground is solidly connected? Check all the plug connections for solid, tight connections. Including the solenoid, and ignition switch. Check the ignition switch for corrosion, and proper function. Really, all this is just making sure that you've covered all possibilities. Because it really sounds like a starter. They can get expensive. Personally, I'd check what I could easily get to. Then I'd pull, and disassemble the starter. Checking the bearings before disassembling. Then the brushes, they can have cracks, and such, long before they wear out. Most starters don't have shims/washers, but if yours does. Make sure you put them back like they came off.

I did a fairly major overhaul on my HS 700. Had some issues with bending valves...I believe found the root of the problem. Replaced the timing chain (old one was stretched 3/4" longer) Got everything back together....but had a fairly steady oil leak from the stator cover. I tightened the bolts as much as I dared, they were all torqued to spec at assembly but when I noticed the leak I gave the bolts on either side of the leak an extra bit of tightening to try and get the leak to stop but no luck. Had a bit of a brain wave and did some googling, seems like a few other folks had a similar idea. I cleaned the area with brake clean and ran a bead of crazy glue down the crack. Let it soak in and dry and did a second round. Let it dry and fired it up, voila...no more leak. Will see how this holds up but it saved me having to rip it all apart again , hopefully this helps someone else.

send me a message with your email and I'll send it to you

Here are some more photos..

I had finished the Bulldog restoration quite a while ago... Finally getting around to posting photos....

The owner's manual provided on Coleman's site does not even accurately reflect the machine shown in their video on the same site. In the video the vehicle clearly has a steering column mounted ignition switch--while their manual depicts a dash-mounted switch. Also the gauge cluster shown in thw video isw like that in the machine I have--the cluster described in the online manual is entirely unlike that in my vehicle--the manual provided online by Coleman is wrong about most everything gauges/controls from video heading Coleman's site: gauges from on-line owner's manual: Then there's the whole bit in the manual about using the choke to start a cold engine: It's an EFI engine, no choke--I feel sorry for those owners that spend time looking for a choke...