kenfain

Yes, I can see where a loose timing chain could cause the issue. But I'd think that you would hear it making noise, if it were that loose. But at only sixteen hours, it seems unlikely though. Unfortunately, if there's no codes, and no way that I know of, without sophisticated testing equipment, to get live data readings. Then you'll probably be left to just test each possible component. Or until more information leads you in a specific direction. I think the temperature sensor is as good a place as any to start. But since data for testing each component, seems hard to come by. How would you know what constitutes a failing part, that hasn't actually failed yet?

I thought it would be something like, that since you're here asking questions about something that definitely should be warranty work. Have you checked for trouble codes yet? Strange blinking on the dashboard clock? Anything like that? Due to the nature of your problem, there's probably not a code thrown. But sometimes you get lucky. And at any rate, that's the best place to start.

A machine that has 16 hours on it, should still be under warranty. Why not try that first?

3 ft. would probably look the best, and less prone to damage from vegetation, and other things found on the trail. Just my opinion though.

Greg Kilgore's post above raises a good point about transmission oil level. Phil, have you checked the transmission oil level in yours?

Could be that as yours has aged, it has loosened up a bit. As long as you can still activate it, in a consistent way. I wouldn't worry about it unless that changes. If it starts to act up, like failing to kick in, even when prompted. Or if it feels like an unsafe condition results. Then you might have an issue.

Mine does a little freewheeling at times. Revving the engine will get the rpms up enough to activate the engine brake. I don't know any other way to activate it when it doesn't kick in automatically. So if you've tried that already, then I'd say that you have an issue.

The 610 was a pretty popular model. A used one will turn up, given enough time and effort. $150 bucks seems fairly expensive though. I'd expect something like that to be in the $50.00 range. I see lots of semi local craigslist, and fb marketplace adds, that're looking for salvage/junk models. I'm assuming that it's a wrecking yard for atvs. You should try to contact one of those guys.

I looked at one of those, before buying mine. It's what got me interested in the mule in the first place. It's exactly the same vehicle. At least the gas model was, dunno if there was a diesel model. It was a fairly strange partnership between the two companies on several projects, at that time. Seems like I remember a dual built motorcycle as well. Suzuki didn't call their UTV a mule though.

Seems a bit premature for a belt, but as Travis said, it's the most likely cause, and certainly the cheapest fix. But you might also try to spin the water pump pulley, etc. while the belt is off. It should spin smooth, and easy. Any roughness you find there, could also be a bearing problem.

Sounds like the machine thinks it's low on oil. Since it must still be under warranty, I'd let the dealership sort it out.

Have you checked it for fuel delivery after it quits? What about spark, after it shuts itself down? You'll need to narrow it down some. Unless you're a mechanic, with proper diagnostic tools. Then these types of things are typically a simple fix, that can be a real challenge to find. I'd start with fuel, because it's easier to verify the fuel delivery is there.

The problem is that you want it to fit in the bed of a truck. Anything that small probably wouldn't have any real power. Especially with the dollar amount given. And the high center of gravity of a UTV, would make a narrow model, unsafe at anything more than 20, or 30 mph. All that means is it'd be taking the fun, and speed factor to almost nothing. If it doesn't have to be used for work, why not get a really nice go-kart, or even a dune buggy? Most go-karts have suspension, and some have large motors too. The dune buggy can be street legal.

If the coolant was dirty, then you should give it a proper flush, before you change that water pump. Make sure it's good for aluminum. As far as the light not coming on, it might not come on till it gets really hot. Keep us updated, and good luck!

How did you verify that the thermostat was operating correctly?

After re-reading your original post, I see you've considered the limiter. If the VR doesn't fix the problem. I'd wonder if it's a gummed up fuel system? Since there's no codes, and very low hours. I've found, that if it starts, and runs, and that's the problem, then there's hope of it self cleaning, by running it enough. I'd try adding some seafoam, and run it, see if it improves after a tank of fuel, or so.

How do you know that it's getting fire, and fuel, if it doesn't crank over? Did you mean that it won't start? If it cranks, you need to see if the timing chain is either broken, or the gears that it drives are slipping. Maybe it just lost the woodruff key? Either way, I wouldn't count it out just yet. It could easily be something simple.

Does the coolant temperature light come on when you turn the key to start the engine from a cold start? Then go off afterwards, like the other lights?

Rev limiter maybe? Did it do that before, or is this a new thing?

Nice sprayer set-up! Mine isn't near as nice, it's just a sprayer tank made for a 4 wheeler rack. But it sprays what I need. I started with a direct, wired to the battery harness. You've seen these same ones at Walmart, in the battery section. They have 2 ring terminals, and a 2 wire flat connector. And it's easily made from scratch. Mine came with the charger, so I just used that. I took that simple harness, and added a fuse, and a switch. Mounted the switch behind the seat. Routed the wire so the flat plug comes out behind the bottom of the back window. Just above the rim of the bed. When the sprayer or whatever, is used, it has the same plug. Mine is first, and foremost, to keep the battery maintainer connected anytime it's parked in the barn. But it's also a direct, fused, switched circuit, for direct battery access. Suitable for any 12v needs and accessible from the bed. Extra 2 wire flat plugs are easily found in any auto parts electrical section. So you can literally hook up anything 12v. Plus you should always have a battery maintainer anyway. Works very well for anything 12v. you want to plug in.

Great job Travis! It certainly sounds good so far. Although it still needs more verification, I feel very good about it being a drop in replacement. But I'd certainly want to at least get the factory CPU that came with the donor motor. Preferably i'd want unlimited access to the whole vehicle. To the OP, an engine swap can be an expensive rabbit hole. Because nothing is as simple as we'd like. And every project is way more expensive than it at first seemed. Before going down into it, be certain that it wouldn't just be easier to fix, rather than replace.

It's certainly possible that a newer motor will fit, but you'll want positive verification. Because there's so many things that go into making the engine run, and they all have to work with each other, as well. There are definitely people out there with the skills to make it happen, and probably even make it look relatively easy. But for you, and I, that's not gonna work. So you'll want to make sure that it'll just drop in, and use the same plug ins for the CPU, same motor mount position etc. So it needs to be the exact same engine. Just a little thing like the exhaust angle being different, could be a major headache. If you've absolutely determined that it does actually need an engine. My thought would still be an engine rebuild. By rebuilding the existing engine, you're guaranteed of a perfect fit. And since it really isn't that old, it probably isn't worn out. There's lots of things that can keep the engine from starting. And depending on what the terrible noise was, it might be cheaper, and/or easier to just fix it, with no rebuild needed. The locally obtained replacement engine was always going to be a longshot. But some people do get lucky. I know, I've seen it lol. But that's them, and not our luck. Before putting substantial money into this, you should consider whether you're totally satisfied with the machine otherwise. Good used utility buggies aren't all that expensive, nor are they that hard to find. Everyone seems to want those super expensive hot rod models. I've seen older mules around here, in excellent condition for around four grand.

It does seem a hundred or so overpriced. And it's likely the main reason others here haven't tried it. Or at least, none that I'm aware of. It's an expensive gamble, with little information to make an informed guess on the success probability. If they have, they didn't post it here. And that's a shame. But by no means uncommon for any internet forum. If you have any experience with scanners, then you know their significant shortcomings. A code reader like were discussing, typically only puts you on the scent of the problem. And usually requires more detective work to narrow it down. This industry, as well as the automotive industry could certainly improve that. At any rate, I fully expect that it'll work just fine for your purpose. Keep us posted, and share your success story with us. We love pictures too! Best of luck in your project!

I believe that in both cases, you're dealing with a Delphi type scanner. The pin configuration, where the scanner connects, would be the only limitation. If they're the same connection, then it should work. My knowledge is just scanners in general. I don't own this particular machine, nor the scanner. But I can't see how it could be different. Unfortunately I have no idea where the plug is to check. Find the plug, and check the pin configuration. Compare against the two models. If you're waiting on the factory for any meaningful guidance. You might be in for a long wait, ending up with very little useful information. Although the factory has helped a couple of folks. In general they're known for being less than helpful. As you've already seen, there's very little definitive information on this topic. And there's lots of people here who could really use this information. Please share any information that you find, as this is one of the most sought after topic on this forum. Good luck in your search!

You should look into pricing the 4×4 concrete anchors. Four of those, and a few bags of concrete might be cheaper, considering lumber prices these days. It serves the added purpose of keeping the posts up out of the dirt.