aefron88

So you tried swapping it? What is the batt voltage at the battery. What is the voltage between the battery side solenoid terminal and the neg batt post? If those are the same and over 12.5V that's probably ok. Have you tried shorting the solenoid terminals to bypass it? Does the starter turn?

Kinda weird it's showing all high voltages. Anyone checked the voltages at the batt when it's running? I wonder if the regulator failed and it's getting an excessively high running voltage.

They used to have a post, seems to have been taken down, but IIRC you just cut one of the wires on the 9pin harness on the carbed models... Maybe someone will drop by with the right color wire info.

Hisun support is non existent, and their service manuals leave out a lot. The user manuals are also pretty lacking and out of date. I wouldn't buy one without being somewhat mechanically inclined. You will need to do some services relatively soon after purchase as they tend to come poorly assembled and adjusted, especially if you buy one from a big box store since the final assembly will be done by a 19 yr old who doesn't know what they're doing. Parts are easy to get from a number of sources and a lot are common across many of their models. Hisun themselves don't sell parts retail, but a lot of smaller vendors do, as well as dealers. You won't be getting them from the auto parts store however so expect a wait for shipping. Some people seem to get lemons, and that seems to be more of what you see posted. That's common across brands, most people aren't searching for a forum to post about how their UTV has been flawless for 5k miles. I have my suspicions that some of the issues are more poor adjustment and lack of proper maintenence related. The actual EFI systems on these things are relatively easy to troubleshoot with free software and about $30 on cabling, I posted a tutorial on the Coleman forum. To each their own. You might have better luck with a name brand, but my experience has been the MSRP quoted on the website is much lower than the out the door price from all of the local dealers who love to add thousands of dollars in fees. That's pretty much why I went with a Coleman. I did a lot of research and had read the entire service manual before purchasing, found parts sources etc.

you can check the wiring diagram to verify the dash plug (last page of the previously linked manual) it has good pictures of the shape/pinouts of each plug. Some parts vendors have out of date parts diagrams from previous models, so likely thats how you ended up witht he wrong keyswitch. you'll even find there are some references to the carbed model in some of the current user and service manual.

I would adjust valve lash, and drain and fill the fuel, as it is likely stale if it's been sitting and may have a pocket of water at the bottom of the tank.

Not famlar with that model, but most hisuns being very similar: can you try unplugging the box under the hood labeled "speed limiter"? If there's not a box, I believe there is a wire you can cut, but I don't know the details, I believe "motorcycledoctor" has some info on disabling the speed limiter on older models in their info part of theor site.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

The UT400-5 (the fuel injected version that was being manufactured something like 2018-today) the key is on the right side of the steering column simular to most cars. There is a vestigial hole where the key used to mount in the dash in the 400-4 (carbed model) As far as the stalk not sure what you're asking? Normally all this comes installed from the factory. Here is a pic of how it normally looks fresh out of the crate. Just have to bolt on the cage/roof/steeringwheel/backrest/sidemirrors. Go to the downloads section of this site, under chisun" you'll find the HS-400 factory service manual. The body chapter may have steering column info you need. There is also a good wiring diagram (last page) that shows pictures if each plug and pinouts so you can match what you're looking for re:ignition switch.

Straight from the FSM (available in the downloads section) Service intervals: So 10hrs/50 miles for breaking. 100 hours/500 miles for regular oil changes per the manufacturer. Valve lash: Seafoam as mentioned is not a cure all. If you have water in the fuel or its stale (which it is if it wasnt stabilized and its more than a month or two old) I would siphon out what you can and put fresh stuff in. Old fuel can be slowly mixed in with your car fuel to dilute it so it burns properly. Techron is a good injector cleaner additive (or anything with PEA) if you think you need that, but these multec 2.5 injectors are pretty cheap anyway.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.

2nd Greg's recommendation. Resetting the computer will zero out all the sensors, IAVV and throttle position, fuel trim, etc. From there if that doesn't fix it let us know and we can help further troubleshoot.

That's correct on the MA oil. Some of the info in that post is wrong. There are two things moving the power from the engine to the drivetrain: first there's a wet centrifugal clutch, from that drives the primary cvt pulley, which has a belt to the secondary. The friction material on the clutch is prone to slipping with use of additives "energy Conserving II" API rated oils, which are used in most car oils. Cars use a dry transmission, most motorcycles use a wet clutch where the clutch plates are bathed in oil. The MA rated oils don't have that additive which causes wet clutch slip issues. See attached picture of the friction disc of the wet clutch. Yellow stuff is the friction material. Once it starts slipping you get rapid wear, and also a lot of crud in your oil. Generally speaking conventional vs synthetic, synthetic oils have more uniform molecules and hence lubricate better and resist more wear and tear before going out of spec. They also typically have better additive packages, because the manufacturer expects them to be used for more mileage. Conv vs synth it makes little difference, and I would lean towards changing oil early on these machines being a large single cylinder ("thumper") they get more wear and tear than a normal car engine, and also I've read a fair number of timing chain stretching issues, which is typically an issue with accelerated wear of the pins holding the chain.

Synthetic vs conventional has nothing to do with clutch slippage. The clutch slip is caused by viscosity modifiers used in "Energy Conserving" oils (you'll see that with the API Starburst ratings). JASO MA rated oils are designed to work properly with wet clutches used in Japanese bikes, as well as ATV/UTVs etc that use wet clutches. Do not use a non JASO-MA rated oil unless you can confirm it is wet clutch safe, and afaik the only common non MA rated oil that is ok is Rotella.

They both need to be fully off their respective cam lobes. You can either look at the cam or pull the spark plug and look through the hole with a flashlight. It's much easier to spin the engine over by hand with the plug pulled since you're not fighting the compression.

Have you tried resetting the ECU? Likely something funky happened with the IAC settings or the fuel trim. When running rev it to redline in neutral, and shut it off with the pedal still floored. Wait 5 seconds and then let off the pedal and restart as normal ...or you can use the codescanner method if you have the codescan cables and HUD ECU hacker

This is correct JASO MA oil is a requirement for wet clutches, other motor oils are "Energy Conserving II" and will cause wet clutch slippage, and rapid wear. The manuals I've seen out of Hisun/Coleman are not explicit or don't mention it at all.

The dash 7 means version 7 of the 700 model. Lot to unpack there. Goodluck on the head and let us know what you find.

Yep post a picture. Nothing is done with steering in final assembly except bolting on the steering wheel.

You might have better luck in the "coleman" forum. Yes the TSC oil change kit should be ok. Make sure the oil is ok for a wet clutch, there are UTV/ATV/Motorcycle specific oils or Shell Rotella that are wet clutch compatable. As far as plugs look up the iridium cross reference. Some people have gone up a heat range to reduce fouling, but you run the risk of knocking.

I would try valves first. I found mine were a bit wonky even new from the factory. Also, presumably you've made sure you have good fresh fuel in the tank? There is a way to see engine parameters if you need to troubleshoot anything with EFI rather than just throwing parts at it.

Either the $350 TS-301 or this solution for any Delphi MT-05 based vehicle

there's a nipple under the oil filter that is the water pump weep hole. It shouldn't have oil coming out, you may get a tiny bit of coolant from time to time if the water pump seal is weeping. if theres a flow the water pump seal has failed and you'll need a new water pump.

That's not a code, that's the model... HS700-revision 7 The million dollar question is why does yours think its a 700cc? you sure its a 550? These things are rougher on plugs than a normal vehicle, just like most small engines. Have you checked the valve clearances? Have you noticed the higher heat range plug resisting fouling any better? Do you have too much oil in the crankcase? You shouldn't need 93 octane.