that guy from Canada

Irony is this... In Canada all our diesel fuel has anti gel in it, right at the pump. As winter approaches that is adjusted b 4 its even in the tanker. So if you have an old jerry can from summer, there is a chance it may gel dead of winter -35 but still usually not. However I will ask some of my friends about what they use, if they do. Cheers

Did you ever adjust the idle setting on the throttle body? As it only runs with throttle applied some people adjust this as a try to fix but it will only throw the tps out of whack with ecu. Also if tps isnt fixed mount try adjusting its position, but only a little bit at a time. Lastly bad temp sensor can cause similar issue as well. If atv idles too low for another reason the computer can throw tps code, it thinks tps is out for current idle rpm. I have seen this caused by plugged muffler or blown out baffles. Also bad or old fuel. Why i prefer carburetors... lol

That is a standard mechanical rotary seal, no o ring belongs there. The little lip under your arrow seals on that white teflon on impeller, thats it. Possibly the seal leaks and it was someones fix, or someone added it because they just did. If that lip isnt damaged Assemble without it and check weep hole under pump for leakage when or after running it. Cheers

Aftermarket is usally pretty good. Ive installed lots. For roof ive bought 4x8 sheet of 3/16 umhu plastic and pipe clamps to rollbar, not pretty but only about 150 bucks. May need 2 sheets overlapped if longer than 4 feet, as in 4 seater, utv is wider than 4 feet. Winch... warn, kfi, or all balls expedition series. Easier to winch around heavy things instead of pulling n digging ruts

Most common cause of no circulation is an air lock. You should not have to bleed the actual pump. Should be bleeder near upper rad hose on engine. Be sure to run it with rad cap OFF or you will never get rid of an air lock. Also wouldnt hurt to test thermostat, keurig is hot enough to open it, pour a cup of hot water, no pod, drop in stat and watch it open. Sometimes takes 2 tries if cup and stat are cool.

To my knowledge ranger xp started in 2005, yours was either manufactured 2004, making it a 2005 model or its an early production 2005 labeled as an 04 The injector should by rights be the same regardless, unless its odd ball but then it would be different shape/size. Believe same 05 to 10 700 800

As a mechanic thats needlessly replaced many rebuildable starters, DO NOT hit it! Also check, clean and di-electric all battery, solenoid and ground cables before condemning the starter.

Unless chain is stretched badly they sould essentially be bang on, even with stretch and marks not perfect, one tooth off is quite obvious. Also be aware some models have a mark on flywheel at F for fire, ignition timing, another at T for TDC make sure you have the right mark or your beating a dead horse. Hope this helps

After that long spiel, you do have valve clearance correct and not too tight

Well not really, choke problems will still cause aall the same issues so its worth checking. If its not a fix id double check timing, remeber to finger in the chain where the tensioner goes after setting to remove chain slack and double check marks. I also install head cover temporarily with 4 center bolts snug not torqued and rockers slacked off to hold cam same with tensioner finger tight on bolts. Then rotate engine one cycle, 720 degrees oor 2 turns, then remove everything and recheck timing. If you have a friend you can hold cam in place with one hand finger tension chain with other and have them rotate engine... slowly! Then rechecking saves ssome time but sometimes the cam will move.

Arctic cat v-twins are notorious for the choke sticking, replace cable, plungers and springs. If the little rubber boot on lever is ripped change it too or ypull get water in the cable. Id reinstall the factory carbs. Also idle mixture screw is super finnicky set it with engine well warmed and deal with crappy long warm up time.

Unfortunately I can't. Has to go to dealer usually

Likley this is a feed wire for sensors, power input from main, return is sensor output to computer, go back a bit farther in harness to be sure but i wouldnt be surprised if all 3 tie together

Poly vs steel , poly is more slippery for plowing, snow rolls off better, plus lighter installing and moving around. steel is way more durable and can be used to push around loose gravel leveling a driveway... loose gravel! Not a grader! lol

It shoulnt need modifications, you may need to set the feet a little lower to prevent the plow from digging in, but thats all

First thing to do is test ouput of stator at regulator, 3 yellow or white wires. 20+ volts ac If this checks out you likley need a regulator

I dont own a UTV but i work on a lot of em Glad to help with any technical knowledge from the great white north

I havent personally done mods to these models but having worked on them the mule is lacking in the Horsepower department. Adding larger tires, especially anything more than 1" over stock will definitely require a clutch kit. Also remember that a lift only raises the center n bumper of the utv, tires create axle/diff clearance. If you can fit tires without lift, this is better for the axles n suspension and center of gravity. Best bet is go 1" over stock no lift no clutch kit n go.

What your saying is true in some cases like very small 4 stroke, however the hisun has a built in windage tray for the crank, no spash. Also due to the icreased volume of the case, it has a transmission built in, excess crank pressure isnt really an issue. Either way avoiding catastrophic engine failure due to lack of oil is the key here. Also i was incorrect it starves when going steep downhill not up.

Just an fyi Ive worked on a few hisuns biggest issue with 700 750 is that when the engine was installed it was installed at the wrong angle and when going uphill it runs low on oil. Add 1 liter or quart of oil from full and re mark the dip stick. This will solve a lot of issues especially with timing chain and wet clutch.