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Well I lost that Bet, Differentials


Kinarfi
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2934020220104282158hivvrO_th.jpg 2398713310104282158ZgPkdL_th.jpg

I was willing to bet that the differentials were the same, THEY ARE NOT!!!!! also another thing I notice is that the spiders were different, the rear was straight cut and the front was curved, helical, I believe Lenny said.

I wonder if all Troopers are this way, when you do the Lenny upgrade, take photos of each and post, please.

Thanks

Kinarfi :blink:

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Kinarfi, I will. From looking at your pics, I come up with a diff ratio of aprox 4.57. 32 teeth on the big gear and maybe 7 on the small gear.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico/New Mexico

I agree with the 32 tooth ring gear, but I think 15 or 16 teeth for the pinion, sorry I didn't get a better photo, you can make up for it when you take photos. anyway I come with 2.1333 or 2.00

2612552910104282158LHYFTh_th.jpg

Kinarfi

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You had one pic that did give an idea of about 15 teeth. What I am trying to determine is where the low gearing comes from, the trans or the diffs? Is the trans a std. car trans with std gearing?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico/New Mexico

There is a fairly good pic of the pinion gear in the diff upgrade instructions. You should be able to get a fairly good count off it. By the way, I think I mixed up shims 9 and 10. I think 9 should be 10 and vise versa. Put a super charger on mine. Will do a write up on forum in a bit. I feel a lot easier then a turbo. Got just what I want, lots of low end torque. No delay, power is always ready. I feel it's easier on the engine then stock. I never hit the rev limiter anymore. The 4500rpm rush of power is gone. I can lug the gears and just don't need to scream the engine to go fast. It can scream if I choose. Stuff I used to use 2nd to pull I now do in third. Wife loves it, much easer to drive. Don't need to be in the right gear at the right time anymore. I'm only using half of the potential boost I can get (gauge coming). Entire intake system is now port matched. It was real bad stock and just matching the ports could make 7 to 8hp. Then again if your going to put a 210hp subaru driveline in it, you dont need a blower or turbo. If I were going to do that, I would build the entire Trooper from scratch to correct everything all at once. Probably easier then a transplant You could put in 20" of suspension travel. After that you could go to a 1000hp v6 and well, where do you stop so you don't end up killing yourself. There is always another step you can go. My Trooper is great in the sand dunes, pretty good at rock crawling, I can take a easy cruse down the trails, I can blast the rough stuff and it handles great in race mode on the trails and it will climb with the best of them. With the extra power of the blower, it's a very versatile machine. Even though I have several things to still do, I'm beginning to feel my Trooper is close to being just right, an all around fun machine.

Lenny

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Lenny, one of our Rallys needs to be at your shop/home turf for a week. We can all work on our Troopers with your watchful eye guiding us and upgrade to the level each person wants to go. Need pics, specs & cost of the super charger. Now we know who we are chasing.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico/New Mexico

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Just wanted to say Hi to everyone, been busy, still going like mad on the Model A. So the ports were not matched lenny, with the super charger you should do well, just make sure you are not loosing fuel preasure at the guage. you do not want to lean it out. Jim, see why i did not want to take your money, the gears should be cut in a different direction also. Good day every one. Flatbed.

EDIT Thanks for not taking my money :lol::D:P and it's Jeff or novice mechanic or kinarfi :) but Jim works too.

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Just wanted to say Hi to everyone, been busy, still going like mad on the Model A. So the ports were not matched lenny, with the super charger you should do well, just make sure you are not loosing fuel preasure at the guage. you do not want to lean it out. Jim, see why i did not want to take your money, the gears should be cut in a different direction also. Good day every one. Flatbed.

Good to hear from you Flatbed. We all thought you died. Thanks for the advise on leaning my engine out. I'm aware of what leaning out can do. I have been watching my temp real close. So far, I'm running cooler then before so I think I'm a little richer. I have added an extra injector in the intake manifold which is run off a controller monitering the intake pressure. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet but will get one, good point. I'll post pictures of ports in a bit. Exhaust ports are really bad too. Looking at an engine that my dealer tore down, the exhaust ports coming out of the head are for example say 1" dia and the holes in the plate on the exhaust manifold are from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" in dia. That is a big step, setting up turbulance and disrupting proper scavnging. I plan on redoing the mainfold. Need to research it first to see what size pipe should be used to get the most torque. Don't know anything about it yet.

Again, good to hear from you.

Lenny

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Lenny if you are still using the stock fuel pressure reg it will work but I was told that it leaks air under boost so it needs to be sealed up. it leaks around the top adjusting nut all you need is a plastic washer under the nut apparently. this leak wont affect any of us without boost as we don't have a boost line hooked to the empty barb on the reg. (just thought I should mention that)

Kevin

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Lenny if you are still using the stock fuel pressure reg it will work but I was told that it leaks air under boost so it needs to be sealed up. it leaks around the top adjusting nut all you need is a plastic washer under the nut apparently. this leak wont affect any of us without boost as we don't have a boost line hooked to the empty barb on the reg. (just thought I should mention that)

Kevin

Thanks ksimpsy. I didn't know that the empty barbed fitting was for a boost line. How does the boost line to the reg work and how do I hook it up. I'm not using it so maybe I'm missing something. Right now I seem to be running rich. Also the first and third cylinder from the front seem to be running a little richer then the other two cylinders when looking at the plugs. I can adjust the air flow to each cylinder by a provision I put into the intake manifold. I'm not going to fool with this until I get temp gauges on each of my exhaust tubes to confirm what I think I'm seeing. With the gauges, I should be able to get a good intake air flow balance. Any and all thoughts are welcome.

Lenny

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Uhhhh I sure wish I could help you with some positivness but I really don't know. I believe you just run a small line from your charge tube or manifold to that barb. I know there is a rubber plug on the backside of the intake at the bottom so you may be able to use this. this should change the fuel pressure under boost to prevent leaning under boost. this is what I have been told, I think, so don't quote me but im pretty sure it will help. I will talk to the guy that built the turbo kit tomorrow and ask him for more info.

Kevin

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  • 1 month later...
Just had this diff come in today.... Kind of interesting... Also a bigger picture of the front & rear ring gears...

This is what happens if the dowel that holds your spider gear shaft in comes out, the shafts breaks everything

Was that a Trooper diff or something else? I had a similar problem, so it looks familiar, but different, mostly the number of holes in the ring gears.

Kinarfi

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The more current ring gears have 12 bolts. This tells me that Joyner had a problem with bolts comming loose so they changed from 8 bolts to 12. Unfortunately that didn't get rid of the problem, they still came loose. Higher grade bolts and better securing hopefully solved the problem.

Lenny

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  • 10 months later...

2076049920104110397BiEXlc_th.jpg

Here's an updated photo showing the front and rear ring gears, earlier I suggested the they could use the same differential front and rear. It would work but I figure it must be something to do with the way the pinions mesh with ring gears, if they used the same diff front and rear, it would be like have the rear in forward and front in reverse type of wear pattern.

Does anyone KNOW what the reason is for making separate gears for front and rear?

Kinarfi

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  • 2 weeks later...

You always want to use the long side of the gear, since the front and rear difs are feed from different directions, they have to have the teeth made different. It is kind of how a dam is built, the water has preasure on the long side, if it was built backwards or straight it would break, if the water was on the other side it would break. Your gearing is always stronger when you are going forward. I do not know how many buggys i have seen breaking there trany backing into a trailer.

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You always want to use the long side of the gear, since the front and rear difs are feed from different directions, they have to have the teeth made different. It is kind of how a dam is built, the water has preasure on the long side, if it was built backwards or straight it would break, if the water was on the other side it would break. Your gearing is always stronger when you are going forward. I do not know how many buggys i have seen breaking there trany backing into a trailer.

Thanks for the answer, I liked your explanation.

Kinarfi

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You always want to use the long side of the gear, since the front and rear difs are feed from different directions, they have to have the teeth made different. It is kind of how a dam is built, the water has preasure on the long side, if it was built backwards or straight it would break, if the water was on the other side it would break. Your gearing is always stronger when you are going forward. I do not know how many buggys i have seen breaking there trany backing into a trailer.

That makes perfect sence, Good stuff, never quite thought about it but you are totally right. For the same reason the arch in a doorway is designed to hold the weight from above.

Lenny

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