Quantcast
Jump to content

rocmoc

Pulling Engine & Trans!

Recommended Posts

OK, I started today. I moved the Trooper to the front garage with the tools & removed the cage above the engine. I have the early all metal and that thing is heavy. No big tips & easy to remove. I will post pics & updates as I work thu this thing. That was enough for today as I had to spend time making room to get Trooper into this garage. Surprise was it started right up & no smoke after sitting since May/Moab. Hope to have it ready to pull over the weekend.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Thanks A, have done it tooooo many times. Same as my racecar only I have a ton of room in the engine compartment. Just isn't my favorite thing to do. I like to play!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In May I sheared the rear output shaft off the trans in Moab. It was MY fault! Details in a May/June post.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

- Edit by kinarfi -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


NOW I remember. Sorry, getting old and forgetful (just ask my wife) Does anyone make Hi Per cams or Hi Comp pistons for those Chery engines yet???? Might as well juice it up while it is out on the bench. Even just shaving the head .0004 or .0005 would up it a bunch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My dealer's mechanic pulled a trooper engine in about 1-1/2 hours not including trans. Not really work, just not your preferred play.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lenny, I don't know if I should laugh or cry!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Did I say 1-1/2 hours, sorry I ment to say 2-1/2, but then again a man of your caliber, 45 minutes no sweat. Don't worry, there's lots of room once you get the engine out. I would unbolt the engine at the bell housing and pull it first, then the transmission. I happened to stop at my dealer just when they were unbolting the bellhousing. That didn't take long and 5 minutes later the engine was out. Looked to me like the transmission is then easy to get at. Let us all know when you start and we will all bowe down to the gods and ask for a speedy departure of your engine. Then again to repeat myself, for you, the gods would probably get in the way. :lol:

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Drained coolant, have to remove a hose as there is not a petcock on the raditor. Pulled Radiator, 4 bolts. Two on the bottom and two on the cross-member attached to the top. Leave the cross-member attached to the radiator and remove the cross-member from the tube frame. Removed the two chrome tanks on the driver's side. Rear of the two is a breather/oil/crankcase tank for the crankcase. This is the first place I would look for a blockage if your engine starts to smoke. Removed the exhaust system in a single piece, header & cat & muffler. Surprise the bolts turned out to be 1/2" and the allen bolts are 6mm. I am going to take the exhaust gasket to the local parts store and see if we can match it up. Suppose to be Chevy Geo. There is a lot of room to work in BUT in one location. The Mass Flow Meter set next to the parking brake mount and so I think I am going to remove the Mass Flow. Flatbed & Lenny, if you have time take a look and see if you agree. Not worth damaging the Mass Flow. I really like the Trooper without the Roll bar / rack above the engine comparment and it is Heavy (min 150lbs.). I think I will modify at some point in the future.

Lenny, I am pulling the rear diff to do your upgrade. This makes a ton of room so I am going to pull the engine & trans as a single unit if I can get the front driveline to uncouple.

Tips of the day! The bolts were a mix of 1/2", 10mm, 12mm, 14mm & 6mm allen. Easier to unbolt the sensors on the exhaust than to unplug the wires.

I did take pics and will post.

That is enough for today. Now Motocross, F1 & IndyCars.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine is stripped to just motor & trans mount bolts. I pulled the Mass Flow with the intake manifold as a single unit, easiest. Why is there THREE sensors on the trans? When I reinstall the wiring & hoses, I will be routing for functionality. At present it is routed for looks and is not in the best interest of the wiring/hoses or the person who has to work on the motor. This will allow most of the wiring to be away from heat sources. I am going to try to remove the engine & trans as a single unit. My concern is the front driveline. Worst case is engine then the trans with the rear half of the front driveline. This will require removing the center support bearing with the driveline if it will not release from the trans. I left the shifting linkage mounted and jus removed the cables.

Tip of the day, When removing the electrical connector on the fuel injector, it is under the connector. The Snap ring you can view from above is the clip that holds the fuel rail to the injector, don't remove it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't tell you about the Mass Flow Meter, mine is all changed around. I too want to eliminate the back rack. Your right, it's real heavy. I'll reinforce the main roll bar so it's reliable and then just put an aluminum plate over the engine. Probably consider luvers in it. I'll then put a 6" high aluminum rail around it to hold stuff in and plan on using straps to hold a spare and other stuff. The spare shouldn't be so high anyway. I'm also going to replace my top rack which is also fairly heavy with a fabric bikini top that will probably continue down over the back deck for light sun shade or if it rains. It will be white on the inside and black on the outside for winter and flip it for summer. Something else I did is to eliminate the plastic cover over the valve cover. It doesn't keep dirt out anyway, but it does keep the heat in.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


No work today, went to Mexico! Tucson tomorrow so looks like Thurs is the day I will attempt to remove the engine.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's completely FREE! After removing the bolts between the solid engine & trans mounts the front driveline detached. With all the bolts removed, leave the bolts in between the solid engine mounts & the block, I put a crowbar between the trans case & the lip on the driveline. With the smallest amount of pressure the engine slide back freeing itself from the driveline yolk. I am suprised the gas line is held on with such a small clamp. I wil borrow a friend's cherry picker tomorrow or Sat and the engine will be out in about 20 minutes. Then clean up time. I did remove the oil pressure sending unit to make sure the passerger side of the engine would not hit anything. Wouldn't you know it the LAST bolt rounded the head from just the action of the impact trying to break the nut loose. 14mm so I got out a 9/16 impact socket tap it on and it held. Boy would I have been p**sed as it was one of the trans bolts & there is NO ROOM.

Tips of the day. I am replacing those stinking soft chinese bolts with some higher grade quality bolts with lock washers. Leave the solid mounts on the engine and you don't have to support the engine. When you replace a oil sending unit, don't use Teflon tape or a sealer. The unit has to ground to the block so just screw the oil unit on/in. The tapered threads should form a tight seal.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, what is your total time to pull the engine excluding the time you spent to take pics and document wire locations?

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would est. 4 hours but I was taking my time. Had to figure our little things like how do the clips open, which clip to remove. which tie do I cut, where is that 14mm wrench, got to clean up the mess each day, waiting for the second hand and its HOT. You get the idea, Speed was not the top priority.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I would est. 4 hours but I was taking my time. Had to figure our little things like how do the clips open, which clip to remove. which tie do I cut, where is that 14mm wrench, got to clean up the mess each day, waiting for the second hand and its HOT. You get the idea, Speed was not the top priority.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I know you weren't trying to break any records. I was curious and for the sake of others that, God forbid, might have to remove their engine. Thanks for the input.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is out! I was successful in pulling the engine & trans in one unit. I will replace the same way. I feel it is the easiest way. Trans is very light. Engine is a touch heavy, not bad. I took closeup pics of everything including the sheared shaft! I will try to post over the weekend. I will also start clean up over the weekend.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



×