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Pulling Engine & Trans!


rocmoc

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I installed the new clutch and throw-out bearing today and buttoned the trans to the engine.

Tips of the day:

1. To remove & install the throw-out bearing use the outside end of the lever to rotate the bearing forward. PULL on the lever as you rotate shifting the two arms the bearing is resting on towards the side allowing you to slip the bearing over a tit on the side of one of the arms allowing the bearing to come free. Reverse the process to install. The bearing will not come over the tit, sorry I don't know a better term, without the lever arm rotated and shifted. Don't forget to put a small amount of high quality grease on the shaft housing the bearing slides on. The throw-out bearing has a PLASTIC bushing and will not last long without the grease. Also place a VERY small amount of grease on the bearing surface where it mates with the pressure plate.

2. The engine has the smallest pilot bearing I have ever seen. I had to remove the end of my clutch alignment tool and use just the threaded end. If you don't have a clutch alignment tool, get the smallest you can find. The old clutch was about 1/2 worn which I think is good for the abuse it took. This gives me great hope for the existing clutch setup. The new replacement appears to have stronger springs.

3. A caution: the oil return line / breaker tube nearly rest under the pan. Be very very careful or you could crush or break it off when you are moving or setting the engine down.

Two pieces are now ONE!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Some time ago someone wanted to know if anyone else has sheared of a shaft. My opinion is YES as I was directed at Joyner how they removed the piece out of the CV joint. They arc a bolt on the piece and remove with a slide hammer. I didn't like the idea of taking heat to my CV so I drilled and tapped, the shaft wasn't that hard of steel. With a bolt screwed in place I used a slide hammer and the piece popped out.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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what clutch did you get, joyners or silverbullets?

Joyner. I was impressed when I took the old factory clutch out it was only half worn and I have abused that thing. With the huge tires I have to slip the clutch on an occasion. The new clutch appears to have bigger springs so should make the clutch even more grippe. I have had my Trooper of two years, one of the first.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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IT'S IN!

At a min bolt the engine, trans, bell housing inspection plate & start together for the installation.

Leave the front driveshaft installed. There is room, a bit of a pain, to put it back on the output shaft without removing it. You will need to set the engine down on the mounts setting on the frame, remember do not remove the mounts from the engine; unbolt them from the frame, with the engine cocked at the rear of the engine towards the passenger side. The mounts on the passenger side will be resting against the vertical frame tube. This allows room to start the front driveshaft and then just use a bar to slide the engine/trans forward mating the driveshaft to the trans. I had to slide the passenger side forward which aligned one of the bolts on the left side. Set the bolt and slide the right side, passenger side, back to align the bolts. It really isn't that bad of an install, have done a lot worse. Replace the bolts on the trans mount to the frame with new better grade bolts, This location is hard to get to and you don't want the soft existing bolts to round the heads.

More later.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not much progress, out of town. But got the wiring connected except Mass Flow and exhaust before we left. I now believe the sensors on the bellhousing are the timing sensors. They use to be focused on the lower crank pulley but our engine has none. Make sure you mark the wires well when removing! Hope to have it running before Thanksgiving as friends are coming and it would be nice to take them for a ride.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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  • 4 weeks later...

Intake, mass flow and exhaust installed. ALL sensors & connectors installed. Just the cooling system remaining.

AND

Lenny, Kinarfi and others,

On the fuel regulator there is a little 1/8 or smaller nipple coming off the back. I have it taped but can't read the label. Where does it go? Maybe a overflow return?

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Intake, mass flow and exhaust installed. ALL sensors & connectors installed. Just the cooling system remaining.

AND

Lenny, Kinarfi and others,

On the fuel regulator there is a little 1/8 or smaller nipple coming off the back. I have it taped but can't read the label. Where does it go? Maybe a overflow return?

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Rocmoc, the nipple off the rear side of the fuel regulator is connected to the intake manifold after the throttle body. It works to vary the regulators pressure based on manifold pressure. I'm thinking that Joyner has it blocked off as stock. I use mine because as my supercharger puts positive pressure in the maniflod which increases the regulator pressure to provide more fuel to make up for the extra intake air volume. Now that I have everything apart, I'm planning on stripping my wiring completely an redoing it. Like you said it is a mess stock. Can't take it anymore. Also planning on switching to a aftermarket engine management system so I can get better control of tuning the engine for the supercharger. I will be adding head gaskets to lower compression ratio. Too high right now and don't want to run racing fuel. It's even too high for it too.

Lenny

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Thanks Lenny, I knew you would come thu. By the time you get thu your Trooper won't be a Trooper anymore, it will be a Lenny. Joyner should be paying you for R&D. Take care and Happy Holidays.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thanks and you and your family have a great holiday season too.

Lenny

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It's A LIVE! Yahooooooo!

Had a little problem of two of the wires on the starter reversed. What a pain, had to pull the intake manifold to access the wires on the starter. Flipped the wires, reinstalled the intake. Filled the trans with Royal Purple. Connected the battery and turn the key. She came to life.

Still have to fill the cooling system, tie off wires, check the adjustment of the shift linkage. I have also rerouted the air intake. I did not re-bolt the chrome tubing to the intake. It has a flex tube between the mass flow meter & the chrome tube. The existing config is a 180 degree U out of the Mass Flow (MF) into the Chrome Tube (CT). I will have a 90 degree with the CT directly above the MF & engine. The shorter the distance of the air flow the better.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Cooling system is up & wires tied off. Still have to adjust linkage and finish intake filter system. Will have to wait until next week so I can pickup a new filter in the big city. THEN the brakes & diffs!

For now I am trying to get the house HVAC system up by Monday / first day of winter. Air distribution box / furnace base is built & in place & gas line extended. Will install the furnace tomorrow, install a new breaker box and start tying in the house ducts.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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This will be my LAST post to this thread, it is getting too long.

I took the beast for two rides today after some odds & end work. I will not have time to deal with the filter tube mod as I have a trip coming up with the beast and I have to do the brakes & general maintenance plus get the trailer ready.

LAST TWO TIPS,

Tip 1. Adjusting the shift linkage. As you move the lever forward & backward, I adjusted the the lever to halfway between the distance. I you are too far forward or backward, you will have the linkage over-engaged in one direction and under-engaged the other. This is true for both cables. Just watch the shift linkage on the top of the tranny. When the linkage will not travel any further, there is no reason for the lever to travel further. That is what worked for me.

TIP 2, one of the BIGGEST. This engine & cooling system design will trap a HUGE air bubble. Be careful. Run it to pretty warm and lift the release on the radiator cap allowing the air to escape. Do this a couple of times or your engine WILL get hot. You have to get all of the air out of the system. If you don't your temp gauge go nuts and it is telling you the TRUTH, it is HOT!

A side note is the trans is quieter than original. I always thought the tranny was a little too loud. Very pleased!

For practical purposes I am finished I will not be posting anymore info to this thread!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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